WJM

Stock, they are SLOW. But quicker than the non turbos by a bit. When you mod them...intake, exhaust, intercooler, up the boost, add fuel, cams....they are quite a bit faster. Ive outrun a many 2.5 RS/WRX on autocross courses with my RX and GL-10. my 89 RX...had cams, intake and exhaust...stock boost and no IC...but it was stripped out. Just a shell with a seat and dash. That thing was FAST. 130 MPH=no problem. It would get there in a hurry. But...misinformation on using copper headgaskets and later on using some no name from napa HGs...the car only had 8 days of glory...4 days at a time with a 2 week break inbetween. :-\ It was never a WRX beater by any means...but my wagon was able to best a Legacy GT with stock header, an intake, WRX IC, and catless exhaust with the stock piping and running about 13.5 PSI on the stock turbo.

I second that. All 3-Door coupes have that grille, RX or not.

Yep. Got a fresh oil change...castrol GTX 10w30 with a factory filter, and im doing the ATF treatment on the tranny. Got the oil for the rear diff...just need to find time and place to change that. Its also got a fresh coat of wax, and a new coil.

Techno. no matter what.

Drail plug for the trans is a 21mm...but i use a 22mm with no issues (since its the only one I have) As for clutch adjustment...the clutch cable goes onto the arm on top of the trans on the drivers side...there are two nuts...loosen them and run them either up or down the threaded portion of the cable...and that adjusts it. Tighten the nuts together when you get it adjusted where you want.

Why dont you let me fix it?

BASTAGE! :-p

That was un-called for. Oh well......another subie dead...

Ricer. The WRX is ending up on used car lots for 13k or so nowa days...with all the real subie guys getting into STi's, Legacy GT Turbos...or going back to the previous Impreza...or simply trading up to the next year model WRX.... So the WRX turns up...parents write a check and spoiled rice boy gets a WRX instead of a Civic. NASIOC is getting full of these types...and we hate them...most of them are dumb, street race, and think they own the world/know it all.

I agree that dumping spins tires....but on 2WD ones only... :-p and youa re 100% more likely to break something. As for breaking stuff....if your name is Tom Hoppe(Tom is the Solo 2 National Champion in the STX Class this year in a WRX...he's broke about 4~5 trannys cuz he doesnt preload and always destroys 1st gear), or the typical "Rice Boy dumb @$$"....you'll break stuff. Of you are careful about the preload and speed of the clutch engagement....you wont break things, and wont spin tires so much that it negates the speed of take off. When I break tires loose...yes I loose a little time on the launch...wait, NO! The tires build heat FAST and stick and the car is in the POWER band launching and its actually faster than trying to slip and not spin tires....ofcouse, thats on R's.

I've been dubbed "The best AWD Subie Launcher, EVER" by a few fellow autox'ers. Heres my method on a 2000 RS...street and Autox...with either the stock clutch/flywheel setup, or the stock clutch setup with a 14lb flywheel.... Street: 2 options...fast an noisy, or quiet and deadly...Fast: Build revs to 4k...preload the drive train and hold the car with the hand brake...then GO. GO being let the clutch out rather fast...let it out to the point it really grabbs, only slipping a TEENY bit...and once the car is moving procede to get your foot off the pedal...that usually happens within 1/4 of a second....Preloading being...basically 'riding' the clutch...what this does it have the clutch disc and springs loaded, the gears all mated together, the driveshaft loaded, the rear diff loaded...and the axles loading...so the clutch and tires are the only slipping point...so 1st gear wont break no were NEAR as easily as a 'side step' at 6k or so, and the axles wont suddenly be 'snap loaded' and break...thats the real secret to launching a WRX these days...and really anything else and not make it break. Quiet: revs at 1k...preload...and this is a really comlicated matter of letting the clutch out and applying power to the clutch at 1k and not slipping it/reving beyond that until the clutch grabs at 1k and everything is locked together and revs can now pass 1k. Its ULTRA smooth and the ultra 'sleeper' launch....the ricer beside you that reved at you...and you dont respond thinks he's not gonna race you...but you quiet launch the car and are GONE while hes still trying to slip and go with his 2500 rpm take offs. Autox: Same as the "FAST" launch...but harder/faster and with more preload. Now...1999 RS with Cobb spicey cams and Kevelar (sp?) racing 5 puck clutch (i think thats it...i know its a kevelar) and a 9.5 lb flywheel...same ways as before...but the "FAST" option is even more harder and faster due to the nature of the clutch/less mass of flywheel. Street starts are no different tho...but the clutch doe NOT need to slip at all. It gets hot...and slips like snot on a door knob...or worse. Now...for the main event...launching a Full Time 4WD EA82 Turbo car really fast!!!!!!!!!!!!!`!1!~!!!!!!!!!one~!!! This method applies to BOTH stock and unstock weight flywheels. Fast: Revs to 4k (or whatever). Preload. time to go? Ok. Foot to floor, wait to 5k, and one nice smooth transition off the clutch predal that takes 1/4 sec or less. Once the car builds boost, if you are still slipping the clutch (stock clutch setups) the clutch will SLIP SLIP SLIP...SMOKE...and you will have just toasted the clutch. The clutch need to be grabbiing the flywheel and no longer slipping just as the car is building boost and moving past the 3psi mark...OR SO...but if its built up to over 6psi and 5500...say bye bye clutch and hello smoke and new clutch soon. The XT6 is no better than the stock ones...its just got more inital grab to it. Ive done these launches time and time again. Never had issues of any sort(other than when trying to get the launch perfected, smoking clutches...). It will break 215/50/13 Khumo V700 R compound tires loose. the street launch, i'll do the 2000 rpm hold, WOT to about 3500~4000...and ive got it preloaded and do the 'pedal job' and the car is gone with a little bit of bog...otherwise, the quiet and deadly one works fine too at the state of tune the wagon was in...the RX doent have any balls until 4k+ right now.... :-\ There ya go!

My RX did this...and it was running RWD (outer CV stubs only) in the knuckle/hubs....and it chewed up a hub. ????? I replaced the hub when i redid the suspension along with installing known good axles from my Wagon. The onyl thing I can think of that MIGHT do it...is not enough TQ on the nut. its gotta be TQ'd like a mOfO.

No....i'll just call Randy in atlanta...

Skip, I notice the 87+ MAF cars wont idle w/out the MAF hooked up....but, the 85-86 can run and do drive....but drive like crap at anything between 25% throttle and WOT...aka runs great at WOT and anything below 25%....so do the 85-86 have MAP and 87+ do not?

I dont think so...but its something to try. Still ahve not found a TPS...i am really thingking thats the problem...but since I dont ahve one, i am trying to see if any ofthe other items that could be it are it that I do have an can replace...i may have to get a NEW TPS fromdealer...and thats a $h!t load of cash...

Change MAF this morning. Still does it. Played with boost...now i hit REAL boost cut. But...after a few sessions of the 5 second on boost 1/4 sec cut...its now going 12+ secs before the 1/4 cut...or doing it at odd intervals...but no longer after the usual 5 seconds.

Im going to skip the Fuel cut defender crap....and go stright to MS+DIS ASAP.

Kevin: Just get one basic 3 way cat/high flow and that will take care of emissions....and just install it soon after the downpipe comes down and levels out under the car. I had a 3 way on the wagon...combo of that and the cherry bomb made the car really quiet...

Cleaned MAF. Installed TWE Header/DP...and GReddy EBC...cleaned TPS connections... STILL CUTS OUT AT 5 SECONDS!!!!!!!! I guess I will replace the MAF tomorrow... this pre 87...yet 87+ RX has a strange TPS. TWO wire...with a separate TWO wire connector that has 3 leads comming out of the female end going to the main harness...?!??!?!?!

For those who are still waiting...someone at Folgers is...well, SLACK. Im going to have to fix this in person pretty danmde soon....like MONDAY after I get back from the state Autox championship. :mad::mad::mad: Anyhow...installed the TWE Header/DP on the RX today..left the intake stock (from the intake boot to throttle bosy that is..no IC yet....) and its 2.5 inches from the DP back with a 2.5 inch cherry bomb (its comming off tomorrow...hehehe..me want louder!) and i *DID* install theGReddy EBC i have...cuz the factory one is fubar'd and doesnt work right....and I wanted to play with some high boost stuff and see what happens... Ok...STOCK boost...turbo spools and gets to full boost by 2200~2400...depends on if you are waiting around for it to spool...otherwise, you are going thru gears and busy going "WEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!" to pay attention to spool. Low end is unaffected. Mid range is imporved. Top end is....well, it DOESNT end. you get to 5k and its pulling hard. 5.5k and its pulling harder. 6k and its still pulling hard. 6.5K its SUPER "WEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!" and you say, "Oh $H!T!!! SHIFT!"....but its still pulling HARD. Its like an STi with a TBE.....but still slowAr... :-\ but fastAr than stock thats for SURE! Soon I'll put the WRX IC on and paint the scoop'd hood white to match the RX....yeah yeah...i know I said light mods...this is still "light"....im not going dto do wackey things like spyder intake and XT6 TB, cams and such...the WRX IC setup will pretty much end the engine mods until I get MS+DIS stuff ready to plug and play. \ That and fix the stupid AT STOCK BOOST fuel cut.

ANY gas tank form ANY EA82 car, 4WD, 2WD, FT4WD, PT4WD...XT/DL/GL/GL-10/RX/Leone/Loyale/RS....ANY will work....as long as its an EA82 car. If you get a trans...get the shift linkages that come with it. Cant go wrong with that.

TWE Header/DP to go on tomorrow...as well as a 2.5 inch DP back, to the back this time...no side pipe...and a 2.5 inch cherry bomb right at the back. I hope its still LOUD as f***. new PS lines...install boost controller, install radio (CD player, a nice one) and speakers...and a few small things that I cant remember.

subie alloy wheels are LIGHT. the early Legacy turbo ones are light as a feather.

Well...the stock boost controller is going crazy...so at one instance it was boosting 30 PSI....big fuel coud...so I dont think its fuel pres issue... the ECU finally threw a code. 31: TPS sensor circuit open/shorted. So...ive got an TPS laying around...so I'll swap it. I am also going to isntall the header/DP on this car tonight...and swap out shift linkages as the ones in it are JUNK! And...idk what else. :-p Oh, clean the MAF as well. It might be sending funky signals...as well as fix t3h boost controller.