WJM

Ok, the SECOND time around....lasted about 4 days, so now I've blown a regular set of Headgaskets. Note that the coppers didnt blow, they just didnt seal due to improper sealant. So, the RX is now parts for the GL-10...as the RX...is...well, doesnt like my engine projects. I dont mean to be mean on this one...but ya'll cant get parts off of this one...but I might offer some things to the USMB aution...Ya'll dotn want it anyhow. Strpiied down, been wrecked, frame is warped some...engien no good now. So, here's my new 'toy'....a 2002 SUBARU (DUH!!) Impreza WRX Sport wagon. Its like NEW. Seriously. Well, Gotta go pick up the ole reliable GL-10 now...

http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7476&highlight=honda+accord+springs

Is there any kind of write up on this anywhere? Specs and what all is avalible out there? Like, AL wheels, 15 inches or so with that bolt pattern, and blah blah blah? Me thinks 6 lug AL wheels on RX with low profile Stickyness tires will be better than now...13's, with big sidewall, and only sticky...as compared to stickyness!

Ok, so no one cares! Its a g puller now....just needs a few little tweaks here and there....an it'll pull even MORE G's.

If you do this reverse conversion (BTW: You will not need to change the enigne crossmember, leave the turbo one on. It's fine for N/A. It'll be easy'r to turbo it later on.), Id like to get the turbo wiring, dash and everytihng dealing with the auto trans thats left over....basically, the things left over from the conversion that is original to the wagon....shoot me an IM or something if you are seriously gonna do this.

benebob: are you getting the whole car for parts?

All i know is that its worth it! Skip has determined that 6lbs is the safe mark. im sure more can be taken off....but then, you get into an unknown area....I dont know if the Skip'ster has taken more off and experimented...as 4wd flywheels tend to be...not so common, and not cheap. Ask skip what he did to my flywheel, as the specs for my flywheel, and with the XT6 clutch set (NEW NAPA Clutch) is an EXCELLENT combo. Very grippy, and has not slipped a micro! Its got strong engagement, and all the components in the set is NEW stuff, right from JAPAN. With a normal flywheel, I dont think it woudl be much better than my wagon...which is so-so, but with the flywheel, its a PERFECT match.

Ive seen that feature on many early Legacys. From my experience with a 4EAT AWD...on a 96 OB, EJ25...front and rear seemed to be 50/50 all the time. And one time, i was nose into a ditch, and one front would spin, and one rear would spin. SEVERE angle of attack...so there was no going forward, or backards. I think it about about 45 deg. There have been a couple times where I've had the RX spin only the front...but on gravel, all four went. Even on slick mud, with the center diff off, the RX felt like 50/50, even tho its got an open center diff. The OB never felt like it was out of 50/50, even tho its not supposed to do that in 3 and 4.

auto and manual FT4WD are different...as i recall. Ofcourse, we all know that manuals use a center diff, and power is constantly going to the rear...in the autos, it seems to be the same design as the newer EJ trans...using speed sensors to adjsut the amount of power ot the rear. Duty soienoids are what they are. In the new gen forum, I remember seeing discussions on this. Since i am not familiar on those autos, I wont start to guess....but there are differen sols. that send different power. On the EJs, there one for 50/50, and one for 90/10...and i *think* there is one for 70/30. Ofcouse, the manuals have a diff lock. The EJs have a viscous coulpling center diff...in simple terms, something like an LSD. Constant 50/50. Where as our EA82 FT4WDs can lock, giving 50/50 no matter what happens.

It accurs to me that anything SUBARU has, is interchangable to anything else SUBARU has. Seeing as how its not 'all that hard' to slide any other subaru engine and trans into an EA82 car...but from there it gets hard (wiring and some fabbing). But for comparrison, try fitting a 1970's 351 into a 1990's ford escort. Or a 454 into a sunfire....or reverse of that. Now try fitting an EJ20 into an RX. See the difference?

East coast?? Yeah...not much subaru stuff here....if I were out west, Id have the second ever completed EJ conversion in an RX! I would like to get you hooked up with the 4wd conversion stuff...but shipping would cost more than the parts. Im sure, that over time you coudl find the parts.... Wait, I had an idea, how about we sent you a whole turbo 4wd car?

If you are builing some kinda of MASSIVE powerhouse...dont use the US WRX engine, its craps at about 300 or so+ hp...the trans too...but with a feather light 3 door, the trans might put up with it. I would personally use the EJ22T from a US Turbo Legacy, and get an STi 6spd trans. The EJ22 is supposidly good for more than 350 HP. STi trans for anything around 400 i think...someone here knows more than me about those things tho. EDIT: Oh, the phase 2 EJ25 block is supposed to be the good one. There are some of us here who know how to ID one, Pleadies knows how. I think those are found in 99, or 2000 and up SUBARUs.

Get on a loose surface, and 'wiggle' the car around in 1st, going slow, and then in reverse....it should unlock. Ive had to do that once with my RX...if you use the diff lock reguarly, like find a dirt road, and use it once a week or so, it becomes easy'er to engage and dissengage. With regard to the vac lines...if you play with those long enuff, you'll figure out where they go! Thats what I've always done...but ive never messed with the diff lock lines.

IC plans...well, Ive read some stuff about water/air ICs, and my plan is to eventually experiment with one of those...as I dont want to spend endless hours making carbon fiber air ducts for the air/air top mount IC units.... The camber plates, I just shoved them into the position to get maximum camber, while getting maximum caster. Yes, I eyeballed them, but i believe that both rest in the identicle spots in thier relative strut top holes. IF...I had access to an EJxx turbo front clip...with the trans, rear diff and driveshaft, and the wiring was complete...and I could get a fuel pump with it too...it'd be mine before you could say "turbo"!! Personally, if there are front clips already in the country for sale, id get one of those, rather than dealing with so many different ppl here in the states and otherwise to get individual components shipped in....but thats just me. What year is your Leone wagon? If its 85 or better, that originally came with the EA82 in it, i think its alot easy'er to do an EJ conversion...but then again, alot of nuts in OZ land took brats/bumbys and did some MONSTER EJ20 conversions....

my guess is that its got over 2 negative degrees on each side. I dont know about the caster, but the way i set the camber plates, was to maximise the caster AND camber settings that I could get. Meaning, not going to max caster, or max cambe,r jsut going in the middle, for a combo. On stock ride height...it zeroed the camber. With the new springs, and its now about 2.5~3 inches lower now, its got enough camber to get loose on the hard grippy stuff called tarmac.

copy and paste the link: http://www.geocities.com/wmaham1701/camberplate.jpg

Hey Pleadies, you could also contact WJM Rallye Sport for shortblocks as well...their buisness email is the same as my email address!

That is the most logical place for it. I have no IC, so on both cars, and on Pleadies, as from the pic, are all in the same place as Pleadies's BOV.

I did this on my GL-10. Runs like its stock. Runs like **** with it venting. Same results on the RX So true. The RX was REALLY bad about this. The GL-10 only at idle, and certin 'back onto the throt lighty' situations.

Yeah, we are full of fuction before form here. Not like those ricer boys, where function follows form....from a long ways behind...on a dusty road, with bad directions. We are on the other spectrum! Just look at my RX! Fast, grips like hell, looks like hell!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=2446889552 I wonder if those are any good....CCR - Do you guys know anything about these?

$600 for a TD03/04 hybrid, eBay. Edit: Pleadies is correct. I could have had an almost brand new TD04, WRX unit, for $140 on sat....but it was sold already.

no problem.

non turbo engines already have 9.5:1 compression. Its all about how much air and fuel you can get into the combustion chamber....from there, its kinda a science of compbusting it correctly, and then getting it out of the CombChamb quickly. With some small reground cams, and your list of mods...and a spyder intake, id say 140 is not out of the question. With turbo...money is the limit. I read about these older F1 cars, making like, 1000~1500 HP, with small 4 cyl engines....73psi of boost on 102 octane!!!

Im in for a $50 session.