GLCraig

When you were checking the timing, did you remember to connect the 2 test mode (green) connectors? They are up on the fire wall on the drivers side. Also on the timing belts when you have the flywheel at the center of the three marks, is one cam sprocket at 0degs and the other at 180degs

All of the turbos are MPFI the big differences are that 85-86 and maybe 87 had the vane airflow meter and inductive pickup type distributor; where the later ones had the hotwire airflow meter and had the crank angle type distributor.

If the numbers on the replacement are the same, you should not have any problems.

From what I have read EA82 Turbos got the 3.7 rear diff and the EA82 non-turbos got the 3.9 rear diff. Another thing I have read is that with automatics the front diffs have a different ratio the the rear and the transfer gear is not 1:1 but .933:1

You could take the control arm and balljoint to a automotive manchine shop and have them do it. It shouldn't cost you that much.

They started a new thread http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3106

You would have to modify the heads or intake to accept fuel injectors.

Nope there were some in 88 too

the fuel pump relay is under the dash and to the right of the ECU

It is possible to get that kinda vibration from unbalanced or bent wheels.

Yes you car has a hillholder clutch. It is designed to apply one front break and a rear break on the opposite corner. The hill holder will release when you let up on the clutch pedal.

That's not a bad price since $500CAD is about $355USD at the current exchange rate

One thing that will help is to get the cat good an hot. Take it for a 5 mile or so blast down the freeway in a lower gear to keep the engine in the 3000 to 3500 range. If there is a long line at the test station don't wait in line, keep driving around untill the line gets short.

Bassically, there were three. The single range was a 4-speed and it was lever not pushbutton activated. The DR 4-speed had the gearing for 3rd and 4th change for better economy starting in 83.

Woo Hoo!!!!

If you want to go the 6-cylinder route, the new 3.0 EZ30 maybe the easiest to shoe horn in but the electrical will still be a pain in the rear. I've been told that this engine is the same width has the EJ25 but it's only an inch or two longer from crank pully to bellhousing.

Unless you are planning to run a 400 amp aternator changing to #4 wire isn't going to make any noticable difference. At that short of a distance #8 wire only has about .003 ohms of resistance and #6 has less then .002.

I have seen adjustible struts on an 81 brat, which is still first Gen. Also EA81 struts are longer then EA71 and the springs have a larger diameter to them. The strut tops maybe different too

I use to work at an Oil Can Henerys for a couple of months. One day I took advantage of my free employee oil change. Big mistake!!! THey drained the transmission instead of the engine and put 4 qts of oil into the engine. I'm just glad I caught them before I left.

It sounds like you have a cracked head. It’s pretty common on the turbo EA82 engines. The heads crack where the exhaust runners come together in the head and there just happens to be a water jacket there. Subaru did fix this problem with the 3rd generation of the heads. To check for the crack, take off the crossover pipe; look at the ridge in the center of the exhaust port for a crack. To tell which heads you have, crawl under the engine and look at the bottom of each head. Find where it says EA82 in the casting. If it just says EA82 it's a 1st gen head If it just says EA82 with a line under it's a 2nd gen head If it just says EA82 with a box around it it's a 3rd gen head Someone here has a good diagram explaing this but it's not in the USRM for some reason

You might have to get a different carb adapter, I'm not sure but there might be a difference between the bolt spacing between EA81 and EA82 carb bases.

Well the matter of the pistons staying in one piece and not melt has additional factors beyond A/F, timing and CR. There is also the matter of how the pistons were constructed. I believe that the stock pistons are either investment cast or die cast. Now this is fine for stock or mildly boosted application. Now when you start dealing with high boost and add a high CR, well you're going to need a set of forged pistons.

Your fuel filter could be plugged up or even worse a bad fuel injector.

You need to read this. c.moe.home.comcast.net/pvc_mod.pdf I think it's fix I guess not, it works if you copy and paste into your browser:cornfuzz:

20 degrees BTDC I've been told that you have to connect 2 connectors under the dash first, but i don't know which ones