GLCraig

A friend of mine had the same thing happen to his EA81. When the cylinder turned, it also tore up the piston pretty good. We also found a crack in the block, in one of the thin areas between the cylinder and a water jacket. If the block got hot enough the threads for the head bolts are probably in bad shape. You should put a head on and see if the head bolts will torque to spec. Personally I wouldn't try to reuse that block, you're probably best off looking for another Turbo block.

The only significant differences between the 70's automatic and the 80's automatic are the bell housing and the design of the filter screen.

Subaru generaly dose the modle year change in september or is it october, anyway since yours is a june production date it's a 87.

I'm guessing you have some lifter noise. The common causes of this is are a bad oil pump o-ring and seal or a failing oil pump.

I like how they tucked the turn signals and fog lights into the bumper

The number and thickness of the shims will verry from diff to diff. You will need to get the info from a FSM to determine how many and what thickness of shims you'll need.

The rotors are different, sorry

Those are Gen 2 heads for a carbureted engine

I'm not sure about the size but the dealers sell them for less then a $1.00 and they will last for 3 or more oil changes.

Well your shake problem is most likely an unbalance tire or maybe a bent wheel. You might try loosening the lug nuts and then tightening them to 70ft-lbs sometimes, uneven torque on the lug nuts will cause some wheel shake. As for your rotation, you should rotate LF to LR and RF to RR with radial tires. If you have directional tires, it's a must. The tire wear that you mention is pretty common with EA81s, hard cornering will increase the rate of outside wear.

I belive the standard for Subarus with 5 lugs is 5x100

Well what I like to do is take a DMM (digital, multi-meter) and connect the + lead to the output lug of the alternator (this is the connection with the nut) and the - lead to the negative terminal on the battery. From there I do 3 tests. 1. Voltage check at idle, It should be between 12.5 and 14.5 volts. 2. Voltage check at 3000rpm, it should be between 13.5 and 14.5. I maybe below 13.5 but it should be higher then the reading you get at idle. If it's above 14.5 then you probably have a bad regulator. 3. AC voltage test, sometimes the diodes get week and leak AC if you get about 1vAC it will cause problems and may damage a digital dash.

One problem you'll run into when drilling the rotors is the fact that you will be decreasing the mass of the rotor. Decreasing the mass will make them more susceptible to warping. You would be best off having them cryogenically treated. Legacy777 on the new generation board is has done some research on this topic, you may want to email him to get more info.

Hey miles that's the bad crack in the EA82 turbo heads. On the other side of the web is a water jacket.

The fuel pump is controlled by the fuel pump control unit (sometimes refered to as the revsensor) It's located on the driver side kick pannel and one of the screw for the hood release bracke goes through it.

I have a feeling that you would not be able to license one of those. It looks like a pretty new model and would not meet the safety or emission standards for its year of manufacture.

You may need to explain who Roseanne Rosanna Danna is. I'm not sure if the younger crowd on this board would know who Roseanne Rosanna Danna is. I mean, I was still in diapers when Gilda started doing that character on SNL

All of the 4wd EA82 Turbo models came with the Air suspension so if it has adjustable struts, then someone did a conversion. The last year EA82s came with the adjustable struts was 86 or maybe 87. However, I do not believe that non-turbo XTs ever got adjustable struts so it’s most likely that it has a set of struts from a wagon.

I would say it's tied into your EGR not being functional. One of the functions of EGR is to help cool the combustion chamber temp which helps reduce pinging.

talking about a tuch of dislexia(sp) 82 brat dose not equal EA82

Have you checked to see if the distributor turns when the engine cranks over? I'm guessing that you have a broken timing belt. If the belt on the drivers side is broken, the distributor will not turn.

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Well for starters any car will die if you pull the negitive from the battery. What it sounds like is you have one of the following: a bad ground somewhere, a short, or a ground loop.

It sounds like you have too big of a secondary jet and what's happening is you're giving it too much fuel.

dose it do this when cold, or just when it's warmed up?