GLCraig

When you do the copmression test, remember that a turbo engine will have lower numbers then a non-turbo. The key thing is that all of the cylinders have similar numbers.

it sounds like they gave you a filter for an 80,81 where there was only 1 filter and it was mounted on the fire wall. They did give you the correct filter for the front right? Go back and ask to see the rear filter for an 84 and see if they bring out the right one. As for running with the filter you have, up-side-down, you might get an air bubble trapped in there that could stop the fuel from flowing right. But that's just a guess.

Okay Matt let's take a look at a few things. Your hydrocarbons are through the roof and your CO dose pass at idle. So here are my thoughts. 1. Check your spark plugs, High HC indicates too rich of a mixture, look at the condition of the plugs and are they NGK plugs. If they are not NGKs that could be your problem right there. 2. See if the ecu has any stored codes, I wouldn't be surprised to see and O2 sensor code. 3. Also where is your timing set, I belive it's 15degrees for a ea81t

It's a light that comes on when the ECU has some trouble codes stored in its memory.

Well lets get serious here, If there is room for it get and ER27 which is a 2.7L MPFI 6 cylinder 145hp 156ft-lbs. If a 6 cylinder is too big, Kenedy also makes and adapter for the EJ22 which is a 2.2L SMPFI 4 cylinder depending on what year motor the hp ranged between 130 to 142. Also the EJ22 is packaged smaller from side to side then the EA82.

Maybe this will help http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/xt_wiring.pdf

Try putting your old alternator back on.

I'm not sure if those diagrams are 100% accurate. The cd manual uses the same set from 88 and up.

i hope these help http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/diagram_1.pdf http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/diagram_2.pdf

i have some answers. 1. I don't know 2. i have some but I need to get to work, I'll have them up in 12hrs or so. 3. Not that I am aware of. 4. I know that oil pressure is different, since you would be going from a dummy light to a gage. You might need to swap out the engine wiring harness too.

This is what I know. Will an ea81 hub bolt to an ea82 rotor and vise versa, yes. Will an ea81 hub slide onto an ea82 axle, maybe, maybe not. Here's the deal, if you were to compare the splines in the two hubs. The splines of an ea82 hub travel roughly 5/8 of the distance from where the cone washer sits to the where the end of the hub, then the rest of the hole is counter bored. On an ea81 hub, the splines travel closer to 7/8 of the distance from where the cone washer sits to the where the end of the hub, then the rest of the hole is counter bored. That extra amount of spline travel may prevent the ea81 hub from properly seating on axle.

The factory cruise control isn't too difficult to install, It dose require taking the airbag off of the steering wheel though. If you do decide to get one from a wrecking yard, you will need to get one from another 92-94 with the same transmission. Getting a new cruise control kit from a dealer may be a better option since you'll get the installation instructions.

No I have never played with one.

I'm going to guess that the screw is for a variable resistor, used to calibrate the base line voltage for the MAF.

yeah you still need to disconnect the harnnes. The harnnes is what ties the dristributor to the ecu and knock sensor, for controling the ignition retard. Don't forget to plug the vacuum hose when you take it off of the distributor.

Well first, you do need to disconnect the vacuum hose from the distributor when checking the timing. Also #1 is the front right cylinder. And your timing should be set to 25deg BTC. Don't worrie about the cams, Turbo models used the same cam. Have you checked the ECU for codes???

First do this. Crank the engine over by hand until the pointer on the bell housing is lined-up with the middle of the three cam timing marks. Then check the timing belt pulleys, the little hole on one side should be straight up, the one on the other side should be straight down. It really dose not matter if the one on the drivers side is up or down, as long as the pulleys are 180 degrees apart.

Just remember that sufficiently bright LEDs do cost a fair amount still depending on the color. Also you just can't replace the bulb with an LED you will need to add resistor in parallel or is it series.

I think KYB has started to make struts for the outback

We need more information to answer your question. What year and is it 2wd or 4wd?

what year???

What's included in the kit?

I think that #1 is the power window control unit and #2 is the power window relay. Not sure what 3 and 4 are

Lisle makes a few tools that work. Follow this link and look at the last 3 tools at the bottom of this page. http://www.lislecorp.com/tools/catalog/brakes/index.htm

I had a similar problem on my 80 hatchback where it would not shift into 4th. It turn out that on of the synchro inserts (the part the keeps the synchro aligned) had fell out of the synchro. The shift for could be the problem but I don't think it's bent because Subaru used cast iron shift forks until the EA82s came out.