GLCraig

They make a tool called a threadchase. It's like a Tap but instead of cutting threads, it reforms them. Most auto parts stores sell them.

I looked through both my owners manual and warranty booklet, for my 84. The owners manual only mentioned the brand and sizes. The warranty book did say anything about tires

Brian, Just a heads-up on your transmission, it's very likely that it has a broken pinion gear. The pinion gear is the week spot in the EA71 transmission.

Don’t worrie about those cracks; it's real common to see those on an EA82. There's also a service bulletin that addresses the crack between the valves. Here’s a pdf copy. http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/heads.pdf

could you post the picture someplace that dose not require a loging.

the difference is the size of the joints.

It can be used but the 2wd axle isn't as strong as a 4wd axle

Hmm I wanted to do it around lunchtime so that my friend that I mentioned earlier could show up during his lunch break. I guess we could do it in the evening though if that's what everyone wants.

The seal between the transmission and the diff is just a paper gasket that has a similar profile to the mating surfaces.

The vacuum line should be connecting to a source that is upstream of the throttle plate. i.e. a port on the carburetor.

You can use a 2wd transmission you will need to get the shift linkage parts, a 2wd clutch cable and you will loose your 4wd.

I heared somewhere that EA81T swaybars are a bigger. Have you trided a different swaybar yet?

That's only on manual transmissions with pushbutton 4wd. With an automatic, pushing the button activates a solenoid that opens a valve that controls the flow of fluid to a clutch pack. That clutch pack is what sends power to the rear wheels. My guess is that you have something binding the transmission; check the diameter of your tires if there is a difference in diameter between the front and back; that will cause the transmission to bind-up. also different brands or models of tires between fron and rear will cause problems too.

As far as I know there isn't such a thing as an EJ220, by chance do you mean EJ22 or EJ20

Stay away from the early digital dashes at all cost. They are not reliable, and leakage of ac current form your alternator will kill one.

I spent a couple of years living at 4500ft and advancing the timing a couple of degrees did help some. as for your pinging problem, you may want to check the EGR tube and make sure it's isn't clogged-up.

From my experience a used OEM caliber is more reliable then a aftermarket reman.

Yes the meet will be at the Mike's in Milwaukee

I'm planning to switch my ea81 over to SPFI but I will be using Megasquirt http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html instead of the factory ECU. This will allow more room for tuning, future development like a progressive 2 port throttle body with different infectors and possibly best of all no MAF. I will also be able to use a regular EA81 distributor with this. Also I believe it will help simplify the installation.

After tearing down at least 30 of the 3speed autos, I can tell you that the only real difference between the ea71, ea81 and ea82 versions is the casting for the bell housing, and the casting for the tail end were the rear mount goes on 2wd versions. There was a change in the metal screen at one point but I can't remember what year the change took place. From what I remember it was 50/50 split between bad ones and high mileage ones that the boss just wanted to scrap out because he got some low mileage ones imported from Japan. Of the ones that failed, there wasn't really one common failure. I saw some with bad planetary sets, some with chewed-up reverse clutched because the brake band wasn't adjusted properly, some because they didn't bother changing the fluid and a couple because the front diff was toasted.

Also, there are some holes drilled in the flywheel that you can stick a screwdriver into through that opening

so how dose saturday feb. 14th at 11:00a.m sound to you guys?

The EA82T dose have a knock sensor that would tell the ECU to retard the timing if it begins to knock.

If I remember right, the EA81T has timing marks near the crank pully and a small notch on the crank pully to align to those marks,

Okay I just looked at my wirring diagrams. It looks like everything for the cluster goes through the same position on the IG switch and the same fuse as the coil. So if it starts and runs, your problem is likely between the fuse block and cluster.