GLCraig

If it were a 4EAT from 90 to 94 I would say no problem. You would just need to swap the front diff, the pinion gear/shaft, re-shim it and swap the wiring. Now at some point in the mid 90's the 4EAT was reengineered, the big difference was with the planetary sets. Also The TCU was reprogrammed for better economy and softer shifts. The one thing that is unknown to me is what was changed with the valve body. The valve body in the newer 4EAT may not be compatible with your existing TCU and your old valve body may not work with the newer 4EAT

I think your junkyard has the 3-door confused with a hatchback

I'm 99% sure it will. If you measure the wheelbase of the two and if they are the same then the drivelines should swap with no problems.

Have you scanned the ECU for trouble codes? That's where you should probably start.

has anyone heard if richie is comming?

Are you sure it's a 2.2L? The engines are almost identical cosmetically. The easy way to tell is to look at the Engine ID that's cast into the block. It's located under the power steering pump and it will say either EJ18 or EJ22, the 18 is for 1800cc and the 22 is for 2200cc.

Lets first get the orientation straight. On the flex plate there should be a set of timing marks for the cam timing. These are three marks all by themselves; they are not associated with the ignition timing marks. Line-up the middle mark with the pointer. Next look at cam sprockets one should be at 0 degrees the other at 180 degrees. It dose not matter which one is at 0 and which one is at 180.

here's a couple things to add to the list OEM CV/DOJ boots and bands also you may want to look into have a few item avaliable to order at cost. Parts that may not sell in high volume and would just take up shelf space. Wheel bearings and seals OEM brake calipers y-pipes

I wouldn't be suprised if it's just a loose ground wire for the instrument cluster.

If you reach up between the grill and radiator there is a short arm that sticks out of the release mechanism that you can pull to release the hood. It's a really tight squeese to get your hand in there if it has A/C.

Here's some pictures of Robert's Little Brown Mule that I took at WCSS5 maybe they'll help. http://usmb.net/gallery/album118/wcss5_15 http://usmb.net/gallery/album118/wcss5_16 http://usmb.net/gallery/album118/wcss5_17 http://usmb.net/gallery/album118/wcss5_18 http://usmb.net/gallery/album118/wcss5_19

If you don't have a vacuum gage, you could just loosen the y-pipe from the heads and go for a test-drive but don't forget some earplugs. If you do determine that it's a bad cat, I would just take the y-pipe off and shake it until debris stops coming out then use a metal rod to brake-up the rest of the cat and shake again. Something else you should check is the muffler since cat fragments can get stuck in there.

the sensor on the radiator is a temperature switch that turns the fan on and off. the temp sensor is located on the intake manifold near the thermostat. Now since it dose not start with starting fluid, I would imaginion that it's an ignition problem. Now you did say that you had good spark. Did you test it at the coil wire or at the different plug wires? Sometimes, a small hole or crack will develope on the rotor that allows the ignition current to ground out in the distributor instead of going out to the plugs.

Yeah, the diff should have gear oil not atf. Since it had atf in the diff, the ring and pinion maybe shot too.

I've never heard of piston slap being a problem with the ea82. My guess is you have the lifter noise that's really common with this engine. The lifters themselves are usually not the problem. The common cause is a bad o-ring and seal for the oil pump.

The 4wd on a 3speed auto is controlled by a solenoid that opens and closes the valve that controls the flow of fluid to the rear clutch pack. What I would do is unplug the solenoid and see if you're getting 12v from the wiring harness when the button is pushed in.

I would rent a pressure gage to test the oil pressure. If the resaults are good then you likely have a bad sending unit or maybe a bad dash meter.

since the stock tire is a 185/70/13 you would be loosing about 1.5 inches in diameter.

It's gluded in and you'll have to cut it out. Once you get the trim off, you can probably rent the tool that will cut through the urethane but most of the time the windshield will not come out in one piece.

The shop I use to work at has done the swap a few times but I don't know what is involed to do it.

take a look at the picture of the engine in the brochure. It must have been taken with the camera looking at the engine's reflection, because everything is backwards. The alternator, water pump, and oil filter are on the wrong side.

It's not a fun job, a lot of the trime needs to come out before you can get the lining out. Also a replacement lining will not be easy to find since the touring wagon models are not that common.

If she really loves you, she'll let you come and join the fun

Sounds good to me. 11am Feb 14, Mikes drive in Milwaukee

Did you deck the heads just to raise the compression ratio or did you need to do it to compinsate for the ground cam?