GLCraig

The crack between the valves are okay. here's a copy of the FSB that covers it. http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/heads.pdf The other issue is the crack where the exhaust runners meet, on 1st and 2nd generation EA82T heads.

You don't push them in, you rotate the piston and push in at the same time.

You could do a resistance test but I don't know what values correlate with what temperatures.

It might be the Temp sensor for the ECU. Sometimes when it gose bad the ECU will think that the engine is running at normal temperature.

You know I've been pondering stuffing a EZ30 in to my 84 wagon, since it takes up less space then the ER27.

For Subaru LSD is a clutch type limited slip and a VLSD is a Vicious coupling Limited Slip.

Nope, the xt-6 has the 2.7L ER27 and the SVX has the 3.3L EJ33 and the Outback H-6 has the 3.0L EZ30

I guessed right, 2 points for me

Subaru make a pretty good block heater that screws into the engine block.

I'm guessing you're talking about this sticker http://www.subarubrat.com/er27.htm

Caleb, It's my Legacy, and they don't have the feature that tells you that you have brake light out or atleast I don't think it dose. Anyway the light dose go out when I restart the car when it's warm enough. I also check the break light in the back when the dash light was on. they were both working.

Hey guys, the dummy light for the parking brake and brake fluid level is staying on now with the cold weather. I know this topic has been discussed before but I couldn't find it when I did a search. Dose anyone remember what the cure for this is?

The auction maybe over with. You would be better off to find the struts and coilovers from a non-turbo 4wd XT and replace the air struts.

You lucky bumbs. I just got back from the store and it's only rain and snow mixed here.

bump If anyone near portland has a hub laying around, I could come over and measure it with my calipers

the pin that holds the gear to the shaft may have sheared off. You might want to pull the distributor and give it a good inspection.

a 2 piece hub that So I can run 5x100 wheels

The rotor. 4x100 seems a little large to me. I'm working on a crazy Idea and it would help if I knew what that dimension is.

Anyone happen to know what the bolt circle is on EA81/EA82 brake rotors.

The 80 4wd hatch I had, had an EA71 with old style bellhousing. It used the same axles as the rest of the EA81 body style with 4wd. Also EA81 2wd and EA82 2wd axles are not the same. The EA82 axles have a longer shaft.

It was probably had to do with you keeping the engine running while in line. The cat needs to be good and warm to work right.

yeah they make a tool. The axle is really designed to be either a light press fit or a transitional fit (sometimes press fit sometimes not) but most remans slide through because they grind enough off of the shaft when they resurface it. Here's a picture of one I made using an axle nut and some other parts.

Any of the following will cause Dieseling. 1. Too fast of idle 2. Too Lean of mixture 3. Timing is advanced too far there are a few other causes but those are the only ones I can think of at the moment.

Any good parts store like Napa, CarQuest, AutoZone, ...Etc. should carry NGK Plugs. The Stock/OEM Plug is a NGK BPR6ES-11, The V-Power Plug is a BPR6EY-11 the G-Power Platinum is a BPR6EGP and the Iridium plug is a BPR6EIX-11 For more information about NGK go here http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/

Along the body seam where you would place the screw jack when fixing a flat, is a pretty good spot.