GLCraig

I don't have a scanner but I think these digital photo's will work for you. http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/diff_shim_1.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/diff_shim_2.jpg

The correct ratio for your rear differential is 3.9, I'm 99.9% sure that any differential from a 90 to 94 legacy with an Automatic transmission will be a direct replacement. Do not use one from a manual transmission Legacy since they have a 4.11 ratio. The price for a good used differential is going to very by location. Here in the PNW I wouldn't expect to pay more then $150. Now I do have to ask, what did you do to make your go bad? The rear differential used on Legacys almost never fails and the only way I know of them to fail under normal driving is to run them with out oil.

Mountain Tech in Oregon City has some used 1600 push rods and they will sell them in singles. The down side is they are closed on Sundays and Mondays. http://www.mttechsuba.com/

I learned a simple way to do this while working with a 20+ year subaru Mechanic. Line the flywheel up to the center of the three marks. Put one cam sprocket at 12:00 and the other at 6:00 it dosen't matter which one is at 12:00 as long as the other is a 6:00. Throw the belts on and your're done.

If it drops down to 9v for only a few minutes it shouldn't be a problem. The actual running of the engine doesn’t take a whole lot of power compared to starting it. Remember, until the 50's most cars rand on 6v systems. Now for extended periods of time low voltage could cause problems since all of the electrical systems will draw more current then normal when the voltage is below normal. This is why Subaru and other manufactures have under voltage protection on their ECU. When the voltage drops below 9.4v(for Subaru) the ECU will just shut off to prevent damage to its circuits.

You might run into some clearance problems between the distributor and hill holder.

The response that I would like to give has too many expletives and would not be appropriate for this message board. So I guess I just say that's freaking funny.

Since I now have a job and can afford the entry fee, I'm going to run. I plan on taking my GL but it has a cracked windshield, dose anyone know if they will not let me run because of it? The backup plan is to run my Legacy.

I emailed them about using the green spring upgrade with a Subaru R160. Here's the reply "dear sir you can use the tuning kit if you resurface spider gears . thank you phantom grip"

I think Russ means ASV which is the Air suction Valve; a part of the air injection system. You may pass the tail pipe test but if there is a visual inspection too, an inspector may fail you because of it being blocked off.

The bell housing from a EA81 will not fit onto a EA63/EA65 short block. You might be able to swap the bell housing from a EA71 with side mount starter but i'm not 100% sure about that.

I've seen a justy RS before, not sure what the difference is between it and a GL justy.

Here's a graphic with the different EA82 strut and spring info. I got it off of the Back yard boys message board, so I'm not 100% sure if everything matches USDM specs. Also it dose not include Non-Turbo 4wd XT

I think you're reading the MPFI Non-Turbo column not the turbo column. Also the info in the second pic show that carb and turbo have the same identification marks.

I don't have any real info other then to check out http://www.scca.org

It has the old style choke heater and the newer vacuum secondary so I'm going to guess it's an '82 EA81. Not sure if it's for manual or automatic transmission

Believe it or not, EA82 carb and turbo share the same cams. Here are some specs from an 86 FSM. SPFI and MPFI are different.

the positive goes on the side. It should be a copper lug that's about 8mm to 10mm in diameter.

Try disconnecting the low range linkage at the front of the transmission and try putting it in low range by turning the little arm. If it won't go into Low that way, there is probably some internal problem.

I think you would have better luck asking this question on the Australian Subaru board. Here is the link http://www.ausubaru.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl

There's more then enough room to change those gaskets.

you know there use to be a relocation kit offered by subaru bucause the early EA81s had a vapor lock problem with the fuel pump on the firewall. You might ask a local dealer about it.

The xt6 clutch isn't real compatible with a brat. The spines on the input shat and clutch disk are different between the two. You would also need an EA82 or xt6 flywheel

An 85 brat should have come with the same clutch as an 83 GL 4wd. For the new parts, I recommend getting a clutch kit that includes: a new disk, pressure plate, release bearing (aka throw out bearing) and pilot bearing. I also recommend getting a new release bearing holder; this is the part the release bearing presses onto.

If the front wheels move, the rear ones should too. When the solenoid engages, it opens the valve that controls the fluid to the transfer clutchpack. On one end of the clutch pack is the shaft that connects to the front pinion shaft. On the other is the output to the rear.