GLCraig

Sorry but a VW engine will not bolt-up. Some people have bought adapter plates to mount a Subaru engine up to a VW transaxle not the other way around. Your best bet is to find a good used engine or Japanese import. You might try driving it around some more. I say this because a friend of mine did a swap a few months back, the engine he put in had sat for a few years and it had a knock when he got it up and running. After a couple of weeks, the knock was gone.

Um, Almost all Subaru Engines are longitudely mounted, not transversely.

Vancouver, WA (just across the boarder from Portland, OR) has an unmarked WRX. Here's a link for a news story about it. http://www.katu.com/news/story.asp?ID=55185 Here is a picture of an Australian WXR police cruiser

The fan the attaches to the waterpump pully is not the main fan, it's a fan that is added at the factory when A/C gets installed. The electric fan that's on the passenger side of the radiator is the main fan. If it's not keeping things under control then there is some other problem with the cooling system.

I remember the TV commercial that they borrowed that picture from.

actually OEM=88degC ~ 190degF I know BFD

Was the axle nut loose when you took everything apart? Also check the splines of the hub.

Brats never got a 5-speed only a 4-speed.

Call the local better business bureau, they should at least be able to point you in the right direction.

I've seen adjustable struts on a 81 brat. As far as having ea81 struts in a 79, I would have to say no. struts from an ea81 are longer, have a bigger spring diameter and the spacing between the studs on the strut tops are different.

I'm going to guess again. This time I'll say a turbo legacy sedan since I belive that's what his wife's car was.

I have no clue why you have that. Every turbo I've seen has the o2 after the turbo.

is the crack in the ridge where the exhaust runners meet? What generation heads do you have?

Look here http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29dd8b7a4f46.89471656/&FileType=Image&File=New%20Image.JPG

79 hard top

It depends. On some or all of the turbos (can't remember which) the water tubes that run to the thermostat, unbolt form the rest of the manifold. If it's leaking where these tubes bolt up then you'll need the gaskets for the tubes and the ones for where the manifold bolts to the head. Also since you're going to be taking off the manifold you might as well replace all of those little water hoses while you're at it.

Both use the same oil and as long as what you use meets GL-5 specification. As far as vescosity 85w90 should work great.

It might be a variable resistor for calibration purposes.

I have not looked into the camber situation yet. My main intent is to build these instead of using spacer blocks when doing a body lift. Remember I'm just doing some concept stuff it maybe a year or more before any building happens.

I had a crazy idea about building my own strut assemblies. I have some concept drawings below. The idea is to fit an off-road shock inside of a tube and to find a spring that is better suited for the application.

I've heard of where people mix-up the pcv lines with the heater hoses but I doubt that's your problem. It could be a blown gasket or cracked head like mentinioned before. Another possibility is a freeze plug in the head popped out.

Thanks soobme, I'm playing with some crazy ideas at the moment. Drawings may come later. gravelRX, preload dose not have an affect on spring rate. In this case if the spring is compress 1 inch and you want to compress it to 2 inches you have to apply 134lbs, to go from 2 inches to 3 inches it's just another 134lbs.

bump

Are the rear drums adjusted properly.

I don't know what the emmision laws are in Texas but where I live, vehicles with OBDII only need to be scanned for codes.