Snowman

If it's a bad knock, the crank may be damaged and in need of machine work, which would run big bucks. I've done a couple of rebuilds on older soob engines, and it's cheaper than buying an engine ONLY if you don't have to do any machine work or replace parts like pistons, crank, etc.

The best darn adhesive sealant around...if it weren't for this stuff, my boat would not be functional today:cool: .

Yeah, probably coolant temp sensor getting old.

Sounds like unanimous support for changing the water pump, so I'll go for it! Thanks:D

What did you have to do to make the front axles fit?

Nice work dude! Is that 5200 on the seams?

If it actually had low/no oil pressure, it would tick, clack and knock like crazy. It's really common for the oil pressure gauges on these cars to read very low, and it generally seems to be related to problems with the pressure sending units. As long as the engine sounds fine, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Hey everybody, I'm still pretty new to the EJ subaru engines, so this may be a stupid question, but here goes... In about two months, I'm going to be doing a bunch of service on the EJ22 that's in my 86 wagon as well as the EJ25 in my mom's 97 Outback, including timing belt changes and replacing most of the seals on the front to the engines. I had heard somewhere that the water pumps on these engines like to go out at about 150,000 miles. Is this a common thing on these cars, or do the pumps usually run longer than that without any trouble? Both cars are creeping up on that mileage, so I'm wondering if I should replace the water pumps while I'm in there, rather than having them fail in a few thousand miles and having to take everything apart again. I would especially be worried about the EJ25 since their head gaskets are so sensitive, and overheating might cause them to go. Thanks!

Ditto on the don't worry about the automatics. I personally prefer the manuals, but the 4EAT auto is a GOOD transmission as far as automatics go. The later ones even have external filters for ease of maintenance.

One thing to consider if you're getting studded tires: The studs will fall out, regardless of how good of tires you get, and the studs are what really helps you maintain control on ice. I've had good luck buying cheap tires and replacing them every 2 or 3 years after about half the studs come out, rather than buying expensive tires and replacing them every 5 or 6 years after all the studs have come out.

I drive through Canada a lot, and I've just memorized the approximate conversions for common speeds. 65mph=100kph 55mph=90kph 45mph=70kph 35mph=50kph 25mph=40kph

At least from subaru, the voltage regulator costs WAAAAY more than the whole alternator does.

Better that testing with an ohm-meter is to do a voltage drop test while current is flowing. With one probe on each side of the ground, you should read no more than .5 volts while cranking the engine.

My brother's ranger actually has an oil level light on it, if I remember correctly. I thought that was pretty cool, as you'd get a warning a little sooner than a pressure-sensor based light. Dang, that reminds me...I need to get back on installing a low-coolant warning light in my car. Why do they have these on big rigs and busses but not passenger cars? It just seems stupid!

So does that mean that you can put Honda springs on an XT6?

Man Austin, if you don't carry spare axles and timing belts with you all the time, you've been away from the EA cars for too long:lol: !

What kind of car is this? I would definitely change the fuel filter though, as your symptoms are caused by a clogged filter more often than anything else.

I'm running a 92 legacy tranny behind my EJ22 conversion right now, and it was WAYY less work than making the EA tranny fit the engine. Get an early model that has the cable activated clutch (sorry I don't know when they switched, but I can tell you that my 96 Legacy has a cable activated clutch). The transmission mount was a piece of cake to weld up. I mocked up the tranny in the car with the engine bolted down, tacked the EJ mounts on my crossmembers, then removed the whole assembly and welded it together. You will have to run EA82T front axles to mate up with the legacy tranny. For my wagon, I had the forward section of the EJ driveshaft shortened one inch, which may be a little bit too much as far as strength - the splines don't go ALL the way into the tranny. You'll also have to get the EJ rear diff that matches the ratio in the tranny.

I checked that website out a few times, and all I have to say is that they are some crazy (insert explitives of choice here since this is a "family" forum)!

You need a compressor to remove the springs from the front struts. Actually removing the struts from the car and stuff is a piece of cake.

Did the car suddenly not want to start without pushing? Check the little wire going to the back of the starter...it seems stupid, but I've had that happen so many times on these cars.

Yes, you apply the sealant to the little groove running around the cam towers. It should fill that cavity and then protrude about as high as the cavity is wide. The rockers need to be prelubricated during assembly to avoid wear at initial startup. Oil, engine assembly grease, or vaseline will all adequately lubricate. Use whatever you need to get them to stick in place. I've had good luck with assembly grease, but some have said that vaseline works better. Make SURE you coat the camshafts and the suface of the rocker that rides on the camshaft liberally with assembly grease. Vaseline will not do for that job.

Have you changed the PCV valve?

Hmmm....I'll have to try that on mine. It's always had a little bit of that problem, which has been caused by vacuum leaks in the supply for the heater controls. Last winter, it got bad enough that I had to stop and get out in Kluane Village at 30 or 40 below and eliminate some of the vacuum fittings so it would at least make the heat come out of the defrost when I was driving on flat ground. That sucked.

What about introducing propane in the up-pipe and somehow igniting it? Could that work?