Snowman

The rods, pins, crank, etc are all the same.

Doing a HG really isn't that hard. Doing one in the car will make it a b****. Due to the confined space, it would probably take longer to do it that way than to pull the engine and do it on a bench. You can rent an engine hoist for cheap. Also, it's probably a lot harder to do as good of a job (getting everything spotless) if it's in the car. BTW: Don't ever use cooling system stop-leaks except to get you home from the middle of nowhere. They cause more trouble than they solve and I highly highly doubt they would seal a blown HG at all.

Okay, thanks. That would definitely be a problem if it could control engine RPM infinitely!

I'm not sure which forum to put this in, so I'll go with the trusty old-gen forum... I am trying to figure out how to build a device that controls the idle speed of my subaru according to the electrical system voltage. The idea is to prevent a discharge condition while idling with several large electrical loads (lights, heater, cooling fans, etc) turned on. The actual controlling of the idle speed could by done in three ways that I can think of: Some sort of manual control, like a cruise control servo unit. Tricking the ECM into thinking that the A/C is on so it kicks up the idle. Adding a second Idle air control valve or somehow manipulating the existing one. In principle, the sensing of the system's state of charge is simple, but I'm not sure how to do that. Basically, you would need a device that opens a switch at 13 volts and closes it at 14 or so. Would an external voltage regulator or some other type of device be able to do this? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Shouldn't be too hard to fix really. As long as the radiator supports and stuff aren't mangled much it should be fine after replacing the above mentioned parts.

Sorry, I was under the impression that the EA82 flywheel was different from the XT6 flywheel. What about shaving all the extra weight from the EA82 flywheel? If you're already having a machine shop redrill and balance it, the extra cost to turn off some of the metal shouldn't be tremendous. Just a thought.

My EJ22 and harness came from an auto car and it works fine. Just strip the extra wires off and you're good to go.

So turbo it! :cool:

Engine porn! Seriously though, that's gonna be a sweet motor when it's finished.

Generally, new/reman calipers don't come with the brackets from what I've seen. Getting a good used one should work fine.

You should be able to use a redrilled EA82 flywheel with the EA82 disk and PP.

How far did you turn the cams? There is a place in their rotation where they aren't difficult to turn because they aren't pushing down on the valves, and you may have just had the one cam within that range while you were turning it.

Hmm, I could go with a 4.11 geared d/r tranny. As to the clutch, I looked up the specs and I think the legacy disc is the same diameter and everything. That in itself wouldn't help much, but I would imagine that somebody makes discs with better friction material for the legacy. However, a good clutch rebuilder should be able to put any facing material, such as ceramic or kevlar onto any clutch disc. I plan to put a kevlar clutch in my soob once I get the tranny sorted out.

I have no clue about the other stuff, but I do know that there is no manual timing adjustment on the EJ22. The computer controls the timing according to various maps and with a knock sensor. In theory, this means that if you turboed it, the computer should retard the timing correctly to compensate for the boost pressure.

I explored this as well, and it looks like WAY too much work/fabrication to make it work properly.

I know this is a stupid question, but did you properly install the rotor's set screw?

That fuel pressure reading seems excessive. Maybe the regulator isn't working properly and the massive pressure is making it run rich. Check the little vacuum connection on the regulator to make sure it's hooked up.

Hmmm.... from the looks of the picture, I don't think putting the d/r into the legacy tranny would work, so the only real hope would be taking the legacy gearset and differential and putting it into the d/r tranny case.

Not to diss the idea, but aside from the propane conversion, which doesn't seem that popular in the states, why would you want to go to a disty setup on an EJ22?

Rather than an ER27 or EA82T, why not put in an EJ22? It will fit in there much easier and has similar power to the ER27.

I'm looking for ANY and ALL information pertaining to this subject. Please don't be shy with personal anecdotes or "trivial" facts. Having swapped the EJ22 into my EA82 wagon, I am now trying to figure out how to build the ultimate tranny for it. I'm currently running the AWD 5mt from the legacy in place of my old d/r 5mt. I like the 4:11 gears (and what appears to be a lower 1st gear) of the legacy tranny, but I absolutely want a low range as well since I'm running 27's. The 4wd vs AWD is still up in the air for me, as they both work pretty well overall. Basically, my question is which parts will interchange between these two transmissions? Specific ideas: Can I put the 4:11 gearset into my old d/r 5mt? Is the low range gear reduction a separate unit that can put into the legacy 5mt? How about the AWD center diff? Can I combine that with the old d/r 5mt? If the first gear in the legacy tranny IS lower, can i put the gearset from that transmission into the d/r 5mt? Also, on the rear differential, will the LSD unit I have for an EA82 go into the 4:11 legacy rear differential? The housing looks identical, but that's all I've looked at so far. Again, ANY input into this perplexing situation would be greatly appreciated. If there's even a CHANCE that some of these things would work, I'm going to try to come up with some spare transmissions to test this on. (If any of you AK people know where I could find some old defunct trannys I can take apart, please let me know, as I think experimentation is the only way to find out a lot of this stuff.)

Put in an EJ22 and you'll never look back. I've run a stock ea82, weberized ea82, weberized and cammed ea82, SPFI and cammed ea82, and finally the EJ22. The EJ motors are in a whole other league when it comes to power and drivability.

It's held to the bottom of the steering column by three nuts.

Generally, if the check engine light comes on with the ignition on and the engine not running, the computer is okay. Your timing belt hypothesis is very likely to be true, and can be verified quite easily. The same procedure will also allow you to check for another common problem, which is the distributor rotor set screw coming loose. Use a phillips screwdriver to remove the distributor cap (it's held down by two screws). Inspect the disty rotor to see if it's firmly held in place and unable to rotate on the shaft. If it can rotate on the shaft, then its set screw fell out. Reinstall the screw with some loctite and you should be good to go. If the rotor is firmly held in place on the shaft, crank the engine while observing the rotor. If the rotor doesn't turn with the engine, the driver's side timing belt is gone (that's the one that usually fails first). Replacing the timing belts is a simple job on these engines. Good luck!