avk

If you paid with a credit/debit card and purchased within certain distance from your home address, they may pay to replace broken items.

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What if those electrical gremlins bite it off?

It's not that hard to reach, after you remove the lower trim panel and reinforcement behind. Make sure you have enough light.

Likely a broken seal between the housing and the lens. I fixed a fog light that failed in this way by spreading some marine epoxy (PC-11) over the seam.

I'm OK with that, it's a "religion" thread, remember?

ThreeBond 1215 (p/n 004403007) is specified in the FSM for that purpose, and it is not a part of their anaerobic line.

The instructions for Ultra Grey do specify that it can be used between machined surfaces, which is why people use it between the oil pump and the block. Of course, anaerobic kind would be fine there as well.

I used Ultra Grey for the timing belt job, like most people. I also used Right Stuff from a pressurized can to reseal a transmission pan on my minivan, and it worked very well too.

Sorry. The car left for college mid-September, was enough for the old me to forget.

The Impreza doesn't have the part labeled "pressure regulator". This is likely due to the differences in cruise control systems.

Will this piece be small enough to pass through the drain hole? If so, a vacuum cleaner might help with getting it out (hopefully without starting a fire).

Thank you for the pictures. I thought you were saying that the seal was sitting against the flat surface of the pulley. Now I see what you mean.

I haven't seen mine, but based on catalog images and application lists, it appears to be a regular seal that rides on crankshaft sealing journal. Is there any other way?

Roof spoilers first appeared factory-installed on 1995 LX model, then in 1997 switched to a different design (port-installed or dealer-installed). "Waist" spoilers became an option in 2000 as bratman says. Those spoilers are very expensive brand new, if you can even find them. It's either salvage or aftermarket.

This is one of the inaccuracies ever present in aftermarket catalogs. The "14 inch" designation means they won't fit 13" wheels found on early Imprezas. They do work with both 14" and 15" factory wheels. The "15 inch" designation in this case means that the caliper actually won't fit under a 14" wheel. It is a two-piston caliper. The second picture shows the hardware that goes with it. None of the above is really necessary though, 'cause you already know which one is correct.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30800-Boot-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B0002SREPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1350484130&sr=8-1 I currently have a cheaper 30600 pliers that work from the side, but 30800 is much sturdier (saw it in a store) and has a cam to flatten the pinched ear. Also use snap ring pliers.

I'd suggest a brand new kit, H4610AC000MS, $6 at 1stsubaruparts if they still have it. Comes with instructions and, importantly, a template for cutting the headliner. Wiring is simple: just fish one wire from the ceiling light connection. Measuring and cutting takes some patience.

Visit the forums at acsource.net and ackits.com. Some very helpful people there (unlike the residential AC jackholes at HVAC-Talk, but that's another topic).

Sounds like the proverbial boat payment.

Consult the diagrams, unless someone tells you exactly what to do. You know what they say: two wire hook-up, three wire f-up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-SUBARU-CRANKSHAFT-SPROCKET-GEAR-PRE-1999-13021aa091-/300446106618?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f3fbc3fa&vxp=mtr

That tool must be well worth the price and I will buy it if I need to replace a ball joint. Unfortunately, it doesn't help with rusted pinch bolts.

I'd just top it off, using one can with added dye and the rest without (too much dye = bad), and see how long it lasts (instead of harming the environment by driving to the shop and back!).

I don't have good tips on extracting the ball joint housing from the knuckle, because I have never done that, but for pushing the tapered stud out of the control arm, an OTC two-jaw tie rod puller worked for me. One has to be careful about positioning it, because the control arm isn't flat, but once you tighten it, it should stay. I believe a correctly sized cup-style remover, one with a slot on the flat top and a screw on the bottom, would work even better.