Adam N.D.J.

Here is a pic of the one that I am useing. It's sold as a tranny cooler. But that doesn't really matter, cause a tranny cooler is just an oil cooler anyways, it's just cools the oil in the tranny. It's got 3/8ths inlet and oilet, and doesn't effect my oil pressure but it seriously cools things off good. Before I put it on there, if I had my motor running with the fan on, and not moving, my engine temp would get about an 1/8th of an inch over half on the guage, but after the oil cooler, the temp now sits at about 1/4 in the same situation. I've never had my temp go over half now.

I was actually bored enough to do some counting while running putting in applications all over the Rogue Valley once. It's about a 40 miles drive from one end to the other, and I stopped off in 3 towns and a city, and on that drive I counted over 50 something EA82 wagons on the road, and a total of over 200 Subaru's for the day. Heck, one wrecking yard down here has like 8 EA82 4wd wagon of various assortment. So I think, after reading the other posts, the most common is the EA82 Wagon.

Truely shocking news. I've got mixed emotions about this, and don't really know how to put it. He will be missed, that is for sure. I loved hanging out with all you guys up North, everyone up there had their own place, and now that one is missing, it's like a missing tooth on a gear. I'm not sure if I can make it up, as I just started a new job, but if I can, I surely will be. If I can't make it though, I light off a cerimonial burning of the piston for him this weekend. Send my condolances for to family.

photos.usmb.net talk to Junkie, he can set you up with an account there. True the FWD/4WD is pretty unique, but I opted away from that purely from my own personal reasons. I have enough power in my motor to where I don't need the super low gears. But I cut my teeth in the 4wd world on RWD trucks, and drove RWD cars for the longest time, and it grows on ya. Specially doing doughnuts, and when it comes to U-turns on gravel, way easy, jes turn the wheels and burp the throttle, instant U-turn. Actually I jes got back from wheeling. I went with an Scout 800, a toy pickup, and we had a little brodey contest, I won, hands down, all I had to do was turn the wheels and give it gas, I was spinning for days. The rear stubs break outside the case, the ones I broke, broke where the axle pin goes through the stub, right there is the weakest point, because you have the hole going down the inside of it, plus another hole going across that one through the stub, hardly any metal in there. If the stubs were solid, and held in with C-clips like the front ones, then we prolly wouldn't have any problems with them. When I get my nissan front diff (R160 also, but has flanges the axles bolt too), I'm will be able to let everyone know how they have there stubs held in, I'm hopeing that they are better, (at least a C-clip).

The rear stubs ARE weaker than the front ones. The front stubs are solid, and held in with C-clips. The rear ones are hollow and held in with a bolt, since they are hollow, there is less material there, and weaker. As far as straight axles. I'll NEVER do it. For one, it's too easy, I can put together a straight axle system in less than a week, I've already sat down, down the measurements, and started on it. But then stopped. If you put straight axles under a Soob, it's no longer Soob, as you have taken away one of the key things that make it so unique, with straight axles, even just one, it is now just the same as EVERY other four wheel drive out there.

Woah, hey Del, long time no see. I still got my Brushguard, it saved the front end of my Turbo yesterday. (Some guy backed into the front of my car, couldn't even tell). I'm working hard on upgrading the suspension of the older Soobs. After my last wheeling trip, I have an undying HATRED for the front struts, I mean I absolutely loath them!!! I jes got a job, and now that I'm getting back on my feet, I can fund the front end reworking. I've already got all the design plans drawn up, the measurements have been made, and everything. By this spring I will have a long arm short arm front suspension, with locking hubs. Yeah, between me and Tony, some of the best mods for this upcoming year will prolly be coming out of Southern Oregon. That makes me think, Hey Tony, ever thought of opening up a shop? I sure know I have. Looks like the beginning of T&A Engineering!! Oh yeah, think of the commercials! Nothing like a little T&A!! Don't you want a little T&A!!! I better go to bed, I'm gettin all crazy now.

Hey all ya West Coasters, lets all get a van (big conversion type, sure someone has one), and all pile in it, and crash Pauls place, I'm down for it, if anyone else it!!! And if we get like 10 people, the cost wouldn't be all that much. COME ON, ROAD TRIP!!!!!!

Actually, if you put larger injectors in there, they WILL flow more, BUT, the computer will compensate once it see's that it's running too rich, lowering the pulse width of the injectors, and leaning out the mix. Once you get into boost, the computer goes into a default loop, and in some systems tunes out the O2. So when you went into boost, your larger flow injectors will dump in more fuel than stock, and you'll prolly run way richer than normal (at same boost levels as stock). So you can compensate this richer mix by adding more air (more boost). The problem is finding larger injectors that will work. Ours are held in differently than most systems, and use rubber hoses instead of a snap lock to connect the injector to the rail. Although if you get creative, you won't have a problem getting around this. Anyways in summary, if you keep off the boost, you'll have basically the same fuel mileage, but once you hit boost, you'll be able to watch your fuel gauge drop. Lotsa Luck.

Medford. But jes let us know when your making the trip down, then I can get together ya'll.

Under normal situations, yeah, I would agree. BUT, it's not impossible to break down the workings of this system (as with all systems). I've shredded the teeth off one cam gear, and broken another one in half before. Still got them in storage some where, as battle trophy's. There is a reason that my Brat is on version 6.88, it's had 6 motors, and over 88 different little mods done to it. Of those 6 motors, 1 is the 2.7 in it now, 1 is the stock motor(in dry storage in pieces, a trophy), 2 threw a rod out the block, and 2 shredded the valvetrain. The EA81 is a strong motor, but don't for a minute think it's indestructable (as I did).

Hey Tony, gimme a week and a blank check! Why go with the over done square beams, when you can have quad rounds, 4 low and 4 highs, nothing like em, the only thing better is HID's. Now if I'll ever get around to aiming them

There is only one Gen II Brat with round headlights that I know of.

Uh, do you have a couple of big black connectors, with a bunch of little "pin holes" in them under there where the computer is suppose to be, but not hooked to anything? The feed back systems will run without the computer, just not as well as they should. Has the car always had this problem since you owned it? or jes something that turned up recently?

I've got the same problem on my 2.7 Although mine is at about 1/4 throttle. I've tested the TPS, and I know it's bad. If you test the resistance across two of the terminals, (not sure which ones they are on the 1.8's TPS), but as you open the throttle, the resistence should go down smoothly. This works better with either an analog guage, or a digital that you can record high/lowest on. For example the resistance should go from like 10 ohm to 1 ohms smoothly. If it goes from like 6 and jumps to like 10 or 1 then 4, you've found the dead spot. Get a new one. And the computer will seldome catch this problem, specially since the voltage to the computer is suppose to run from like 1v-5v, so if it doesn't go outside these values, even in a wrong position, the computer won't trigger a code.

The Brat needs a new clutch BAD!!!!. I've been trying to track down a new one, and all I've managed to come up with have been ranging from 250-150$ I'm kinda hopeing that I can find something a little closer to a hundred bucks. I really don't want to pay as much for a clutch as I paid for this motor. You guys understand right. I'm on a budget here!

You can run your boost guage into any place the see's boost, although if you have boost/vacume guage, then it will need to be below the throttle plate. And NA cars don't run in vacume all the time, at WOT or close to it, almost all NA cars will have a value of 0. Hey Brian, what is ment by not reading vacume is that above the throttle plate there is no actual vacume, the "vacume" is caused by the motors air intake being restricted by the throttle plate (which is why diesel motors don't pull vacume). So you NEED to put the vac/boost guage under the throttle plate. Also is this car an auto? or Manual?

Hey GD, the 240B is actually manufactured by a Belgian company. It's made by the same people that brought us the 249 SAW, and is actually jes a larger version of it. The company that makes them, Fabrique Nationale Hersta , also makes a bunch of other weopons for the military, including the M16 and all deviations of it like the M4. Some of their other cool stuff include the Five-seveN pistol, that shoots a 5.7x28cal round, and the new P90 that is in works to replace the ageing M16.

Hey Brian, you can still get Gen 1's. I just passed a Gen 1 Brat the other day with a 500$ for sale sign in the window. Looked really clean from what I saw of it, and it had the jump seats still. Or are jes talking that you can't get them in Cali anymore? I can see that as a possiblity.

This is the press release from FHI. Looks like it's going to be a go. Press Release, SAAB 9-2

Kinda wish that I had my rollbar in. I made up a pintle mount for it, so I can mount either a M2 .50 Cal, or MK19 on the rollbar. I have a picture somewhere with me and a friend in the cab in our uniforms, with 5 guys in the bed (back when it was a fullsize bed), one on the .50 two with M240B machine guns, and two with M249 machine guns. Our ruck sacks are strapped to the hood and brushguard, and it looks real militant (would've been better if it was camo instead of black and purple). We had some down time one drill, so we went out in the field behind the armory and took the pictures. I haven't been able to find em yet, but I'll look around some more.

I've dug up some CIA recon photo's of the "Bratorski" in action in Chechnya. Here it is being set up as a mobil missle launching pad. This is moments after it launched it's first battery of missles into Chechnya. If only our Army had these, then it would definatly be an unstoppable force.

Pretty kewl, they come in 27x9.5 in either 14' or 15" rims. So pretty much any lifted Soob can run them. I don't like the fact that they don't come in my size 30x11.50. I could prolly run the 31x10.50's though. Super Swampers are definatly some good tires. They are highly coveted by most of the 4x4 guys round here, mostly cause they are expensive and most people round here can't afford them. But also cause everyone I know that has them hasn't had any problems with them. Good rubber.

Cats? whot cats? I don't really like cats, they stink, plus changing the litter box all the time, real pain.

Funny, in the case summary, it doesn't say anything about the passenger in the jump seat wearing a seat belt. I'm going to say that he wasn't as he was "ejected" from the vehicle. Brats came with seat belts for the jump seats. I've been pulled over once for haveing passengers in the jump seats of my 80, but once the cop saw that both passengers were wearing seatbelts, he jes tipped he hat and said have a good day.

The chevy rims offer quite a bit of availability for stuff, and are easy to work with. I've got a set from an 80's K5 blazer. What makes them so easy to work with is that they have "blanks" in them. In this pic you can see the blank area, it's already raised to allow for a seat for the lug nut. Here is what you do to get them to fit. The stock Soob lugs are in #'s 3 and 9, the knocked out lug holes are under #'s 6 and 12, these are what you drill out. Jes get a drill bit that is the same size as the lugs, then drill the hole, then find a taper bit that is bigger than the lug, and taper the seat for the lug nut. Pretty easy to do. The only real problem with the rims that I am useing is that the hub hole in the center of the rim is smaller than the Soob one. So I had to grind down the lugs on the hub so that the rims would fit flush. Wasn't too big of a deal, although it could be for some people. Lotsa luck to ya.