hooziewhatsit

leone/loyale, same thing. kinda like brumby/brat in australia

how does the fluid in it look? auto's are very picky as to both the quality and quantity of fluid in them. I'd try some new fluid before you get too worried about it. good luck.

you might try cleaning out the idle air control valve. it's the solenoid thingy right behind/to the side of the power steering pump on the intake manifold. Do a search for IAC or idle control valve and you'll find a lot more on it.

you could try measuring the resistance between the exhaust pipe and the negative cable. It could be that you don't have a good connection, which is causing the ECU to have trouble reading the values.

get the nose as high in the air as you can when it's cold, then take the cap off, start it, and add fluid as needed. you want the water pump as high/higher than the heater core.

yay! another person from Ktown. Welcome to the board.

ahh, so just like the rear diff plugs? \me runs off to take another look

how did I not know this? This is on a loyale MT, I presume? I just looked at mine and found three similar looking bolts about 4-5 inches rear of the axle, are these them? I had thought the tranny/front diff shared fluid?

Hey all, Recently I got a free pre 87 turbo block with almost all required hardware. It has sat outside for the last couple years in medford covered in a tarp. The tarp blew off about a month ago. The engine has sat the entire time without the intake manifold on it. The spark plugs were in when I got there. Anyways, it didn't want to turn over when I looked at it, but since it was free, took it anyway. Finally got it apart yesterday. found major rust in two of the cylinders, one head looks bad, and you can see a ring on one piston. It did not turn over due to the rust in the cylinders. So, does this look like something that can be salvaged? The rust in the cylinders doesn't look too bad - might just need to be honed out? The rust doesn't seem to be really deep. Would I need new valves, rings, pistons, too expensive to repair so learn from it then pitch it? Thanks for any thoughts. pictures: (some might need your brightness settings tweaked with to see the damage) http://www.equineoriginals.com/Dave/cyl1.JPG http://www.equineoriginals.com/Dave/cyl2.JPG http://www.equineoriginals.com/Dave/ring1.jpg http://www.equineoriginals.com/Dave/ring2.JPG http://www.equineoriginals.com/Dave/rusty%20head.JPG http://www.equineoriginals.com/Dave/stuck%20valve.JPG http://www.equineoriginals.com/Dave/not%20so%20rusty%20head.JPG

correct, dizzy = distributor what kind of car is this? carbed I assume, by the 8* btdc timing I guess it should be clarified that the disty could point at either cylinder #1 or #2 (Or whatever is 180* from #1, remember, firing order is 1, 3, 2, 4) the reason is it depends where that cylinder is in the cycle. you're correct, I don't think the car would run if it were way off. Although, I do recall reading a post a while ago where the car was bought with the disty 180* off, and the plug wires rearranged to make it (kinda) run. it might be that the original marks you found on the flywheel are where you line it up to do the timing belts.

those are engine designation numbers for the old-gen cars (pre 90, or loyale). in most cases here, a certain body style is also refered to by the type of engine it contained. EA81 - OHV, uses timing chain (I think), I don't know much about them since I don't have one, typically early 80s and were carbed EA82 - OHC, uses two timing belts, non-interference engine, used mostly in later 80's cars, and loyales, mostly FI, some where carbed hope this answers a few questions you had. edit: here's a good post that outlines some of the differences. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=153266&postcount=3

IIRC, you can connect the green test connectors, and turn the key to on (don't start it). This will make the fuel pump start pulsing, and that relay should click on and off in tune with the fuel pump. If it doesn't click, either a bad connection or bad relay. You can also measure the resistance on it to determine if it's still good. should be about 35ish ohms. unless it's a bad connection, it cannot be repaired. Best bet is to find one in a junkyard, as I'd venture a guess for a new one would be over $100

that's part of the problem it would last too long, so you wouldn't have to buy a new one. How many people replaced 15+ year old appliances to have the new one die after 5 (or less)?

IIRC, the greens should only be connected when doing the timing, or when trying to clear the codes from the ECU. while doing timing, having them connected keeps the computer from changing the timing on you. while clearing codes, the light should blink if there are no more codes. for normal running operation, neither the green or white plugs should be connected. At the bottom of the ECU check page is another link to the way to clear the codes. It says to connect both sets, do some stuff, the disconnect both when done.

the defrost function should kick the AC compressor on to dry out the air. So that *should* make the aux. fan turn on. is the car having over cooling issues?

Here's a link to the ECU codes page. It sounds like you might have both of the connectors connected. They'll be under the hood, green and white single pole connectors right by the fuel filter. If they're not connected, try to read the codes and report back. edit: LMAO... can't believe I forgot to post the link... Thank you skip for covering my back

those were probably for the tranny cooler. The radiator I have has them also.

on these ones, do you know if the lower hose come out at an angle or horizontal? I have a dual core waiting to be put in, but the bottom hose comes out horizontal, rather than angled like on the stock ones. Is there a different hose used? I haven't found any differences in the parts online yet.

I recall not too long ago Mudrat (I think) was talking about importing a dual range 5 speed, LSD, lift, etc, for around $1000. Might try a search in this forum for his username and see what comes up. edit: found it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=240813&postcount=4

we should get a list together of all the places we could go, then set a date farther in the future then a few days, and get something going. I'd love to go wheel sometime. -Dave

what code does the ECU throw?

I suppose either of the two springs involved could have broken or just worn out. If the smaller one from my link above broke/fell off, there wouldn't be any tension on the cable, and you probably would have to pull hard to release it. There (should) only by three bolts holding the mechanism down, so it won't be too hard to take it off and inspect it further. good luck

I was recently at the junkyard and took apart a dash to try and figure out why the temp gauge on my loyale doesn't work. Anyways, I pulled on the needle, and the shaft was wanting to come out with it. you might have more luck taking the backing off, then holding the shaft from behind with something. To get the back off, there are 8 (?) screws you have to remove, then the PCB comes off, and the front is loose.

are the mounting bolts pulling the tranny snug against the mounts?

so what about the commercials with the slogan 'transfer power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip'? or is the difference between when one wheel is spinning completely free, versus slipping in the snow? I too had this problem last winter in my 88 GL. Stuck, while my roommate laughed at me since his forunner made it through just fine.