el_freddo

This is all I can find at the moment: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=10858&p=106517#p106517 From what I remember he had a WRX drivetrain and brakes fitted. I can’t find any pics of it now though as all the photo links are broken ;(

I don’t know mate, I don’t have a gen1 to play with and they’re quite scarce around this part of the world. It would be a cheap way to find out if the 5 stud conversion would fit - you’d need to ensure the rear stub axles fit the gen2’s drum brakes as the fabricated rear hubs adapt the EA81 stub axle to the EJ 5 stud pattern - if this works that’s a major hurdle over come. If not maybe the EA81 rear swing/trailing arm can be swapped in. Big maybe though. Once the rear is sorted the next thing is to ensure the front control arms can be reamed out to accept the larger EJ ball joint. From there it’s working out the master cylinder situation as you’d definitely want to upgrade that to EJ spec! Lastly and probably the most frustrating bit is sorting the front CV shafts. It’s probably best to go custom here for ease of just getting it done. There are ppl who have fitted EJ brakes to the Gen1 brat. I believe over here in Oz a fella had an emerald green one that had the brakes and an EJ fitted, I just can’t remember if it was EJ turbo. I’ll see what I can find. How’d you come up with the designs? You must be good with cad! Something I’d like to learn more about with complex components. Cheers Bennie

If you can fit Gen2 BRAT brakes you can fit the Subarino 5 stud brake kit 😉 There may be some slight differences with the hand brake cable etc.

I forgot about this system, we only got it in the early series 1 models. You might have to get under it and manually manipulate the lever on the side of the gearbox. From memory the cable end of the lever needs to be as far back as possible - but I could be wrong as it’s years since I looked at how these work. Jack up a wheel to do this to make it easier/possible. I don’t share the same sentiments as Numbchux about towing on the rear wheels in 2wd. Cheers Bennie

Make sure it’s in 2wd - push the 4wd lever backwards and down. It might help having a rear wheel jacked off the ground to ensure there’s no bind in the system that will hold it in 4wd. Other issue could be a dead wheel bearing. Cheers Bennie

Does this shop do alignments on Subarus regularly? Do they know where all the adjustment points are? On your vehicle: no crash history or signs of a crash that could have bigger things bent out of shape? That’s all I’ve got atm. Cheers Bennie

What’s so difficult about replacing the bearings? It helps to have a mate that’s got a press - that’s a must for this job! The rest is very much the same as any other bearing replacement. And you know what sort of quality bearing you’re replacing it with since you’re the one purchasing the bearing and installing it. The used hub method has its merits. I reckon there’s a point where you get over hunting down a used hub and collecting dead ones on the shelf. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

I’m guessing you’re talking about the window winder handle? Once the handle is off after removing the retainer clip, the plastic bits should come off relatively easily. Remove the door handle and the surround of the handle that opens the door, then the door card can be unclipped. Cheers Bennie

^ this! 100% the issue. Once done it’ll work perfect. Cheers Bennie

Well the water pump was replaced. The bolts are not fully torqued up as I didn’t trust the threads in the block! No leaks. From that point on she was driven as needed - mainly on longer runs on the weekend or when carting stuff. I’m now in the middle of prepping for Subinats ‘24 in Sydney again. This is the ten year anniversary and my second, I’m hoping to do three in a row with the next one having the Brumby EJ powered (changed direction from the earlier discussion about the EJ conversion plans). I’ve sent my rims in for powder coating, going with the pearl white. This image is very accurate in how I saw the colours in the shop: These rims will look awesome once I get them back, the wheel nuts will look pretty average now though, I’ll have to try to buff them up for a better appearance. And I need to find my centre caps for these, I’ve got them but never run with them fitted. Tyres will be fitted with the outside edge on the inside so I’ll have the worn edges tucked under the car and the good edges easily visible to those looking at the Brumby. I finally got around to installing a UHF radio, several bits need to be sorted to complete that setup - it’s mounted on the roof, basically the same as how I mounted the unit in Ruby Scoo. And I got a basic head unit to get some tunes back into the Brumby without having to use a portable speaker. Since I was running the speaker wires I figured I’d finally install the central locking I purchased a number of years ago. It quickly got out of hand after this decision today. This is how I left it at dinner time: Got some work to do there and two weekends to get it sorted before we’re off to the event on the 14th of Sept. Also should say the grommets for the door jamb from a HQ/HJ/HX/HZ Holden for power windows and mirrors work a treat on the Brumby! I got the idea from Marty when he sourced them for the MCM Brumby build last year (this Brumby should be at Subinats as well 🤞). I also want to give the five poster a lick of paint, not a show quality finish, just something that ends up all being one colour! This is holding up the install of the UHF aerial that will be mounted on the left side of it too, so I need to get this sorted - next weekend all going well! I’d like to paint the front calipers and rear drums a bright green. If I had my game sorted, several weeks ago I would’ve grabbed a set of rear discs I’ve got at my old’s place and slapped them on the brumby - with the calipers painted. Still got the usual stuff to sort out - oil and filter changes, clean the interior out and pack for the trip. Then we cruise! Can’t but can wait. Cheers Bennie

1999? Sorry I’m not helpful. Really you need to find whatever parts cars you can get hold of and work with those. Sadly I can’t help there either and I bet my left but they’ll be few and far between.

Coolant level still good? I’m thinking with that sort of mileage you could have the beginnings of a dead head gasket, leaking valves or dying coil packs. I don’t have any real world experience with the H6, I’m just going by what I’ve read from other ppl’s and a mate’s experience. Cheers Bennie

https://boxerbeauty.com Based in Oz but he can do whatever stickers you want. He’s got US model stickers available as well (such as the SS Legacy). I can vouch for them being good quality stickers! I’m sure he’ll send them internationally too. Cheers Bennie

B is what I meant, just without the earth after the ECU (unless this was just a reference to the ECU being earth switched) as listed in your description. Cheers Bennie

That’s the wire you want. If it’s still in the plug (which it would be if just clipped!) it’ll be a red wire with a white trace line or pinstripe if you like. Definitely earth switched by the ECU, meaning put power to the other side of the check engine light and earth to the ECU. So it’ll just be a case of working out where to mount your light, pick up 12v ignition power from and run your wiring. Cheers Bennie

Totally doable. You just need to find the ECU pinout (find a free online manual), find the CEL wire, run it to the dashboard and add power to the other side of the light. The info is out there, you just have to find it. I do t know of off hand otherwise I’d share it here with you. Cheers Bennie

100% agree. It’s the same over here in Oz too. “Sad times”, but here I am hanging onto my old Subarus - I started that before they needed to hang on to their older cars… Cheers Bennie

I’d agree with this statement. Try doing the old EA style front struts - very painful especially when lifted with springs!! Cheers Bennie

I can’t be bothered working out what 80°f is in Celsius, anyway, what type of brake fluid are you using in the clutch system and when was the last time it was flushed? Also a good time to put a new flexible hose to the slave cylinder. Cheers Bennie

100% that’s CV grease from the boot in the pic. Reboot and go again. Cheers Bennie

I would say a normal job is just replace valves and possibly valve stems if needed.

When you say the machine shop did the side of the engine showing the low compression, did they just replace the valves? Or did they replace pistons and rings too? If they did pistons and rings, what condition were the two from the repaired side of the engine in? Asking as my L series used to drive awesome until you coasted for a period of time then got back on the throttle again. The worst situation was a long down hill section off throttle - back on the throttle again it was a smoke screen out the back! Replacing the PCV valve didn’t fix it. From memory the issue was cracked ring landing between the lower compression ring and the oil rings. I’m not saying this is the issue, anything is possible though. Changing your PCV valve could help. Sounds more likely that you’ve got stuffed or incorrectly fitted (stuffed!) valve stem seals. The vacuum generated at high revs with the throttle closed could pull quite a bit of oil past a damaged valve stem seal, especially on the intake valves. Not what you want to hear, this is one thing that could cause the symptom you’re experiencing. Cheers Bennie

When you say the power came back on are you saying the engine lost power/not all horses were working OR engine fired up again after stalling out OR that all electricals died for the moment of time as stated? Three very different situations for the one statement of “no power came back twice today” and “power came right back” etc. Sorry if you think I’m splitting hairs/being too critical - the more precise information shared about this the better chance of pin pointing the issue. Cheers Bennie

Probably a front crank seal. That’s my guess. This happened on my brumby once. That was a fun drive home hoping I didn’t starve it if oil! Cheers Bennie

Both fans should run with the AC on. I believe this operation should be at the slower “quiet” speed. There should be a faster speed for times when the engine is hot/working hard with or without AC on. There may be times that only the primary fan operates but I’m unsure of this. Cheers Bennie