el_freddo

We reference the EA81/EA82 to differentiate the models - mainly between the brumby parts and the EA82 stuff, somehow they still manage to get them mixed up without the engine reference… we typically don’t reference the DL/GL spec as that’s usually a trim level thing mainly. Cheers Bennie

I would’ve thought EA82 at least since the title says 1986 GL. In saying that I was confused as to what part he was looking for until I searched that part number that gave a better description. Now we wait for a reply I guess. Cheers Bennie

How did you manage to break that?

G’day Groucho, Can’t help with that OEM number/item. Did you remove the old bushes’ outer steel casing? A mate of mine recommended this site for suspension components: https://drwbushings.myshopify.com They should have what you need. Cheers Bennie

Other way around. 4.44:1 ratio diff/final drive is the shortest ratio subaru make. If it was a change to 3.7:1 then it might struggle a bit. I’d be fixing the engine timing first and getting that running right. What symptoms are you experiencing that got you to the conclusion of a burnt out torque converter? I also find it interesting that many find the JDM engines not as good as the USDM units. They’re really same-same but made in a different location! If you’ve still got your original engine it could be a good time/move to swap the head gaskets etc and get it back in action - if your budget permits. Also check your trans fluid level with the engine running in Park or Neutral Cheers Bennie

Those spacers can be fun. I hope he’s got a good torx kit and that your bolts holding those spacers down are in good condition. Not fun. All the best with it. I’ve not had the gasket under the spacers leak, ever. Mind you, that’s only going by two EA81 engines in our family. Cheers Bennie

That’s an awesome fix for a crappy situation! Good on you for thinking outside the box and even better for sharing! I’m guessing you had to drill out the hole in the water pump to accommodate that style of nut, correct? Cheers Bennie

Good find on that rear diff issue. Way easier to deal with in the shed than out on the tracks! Time to throw a torq locker at it?? Cheers Bennie

Find out if there’s an amplifier and if there is it’ll probably be under the carpet somewhere. Cheers Bennie

Seems about right to me. If the system is cooling properly it will shut off until gas temps rise again to trigger the AC pump on. Be glad you have good working AC on a 20+ year old vehicle! In saying all of that, I’m also no expert. Cheers Bennie

The line under the tank you can’t see is back to the water pump much like the heater line does, it plumbs in at the same spot on the water pump on its own port. The yellow line is to purge air from the radiator. The standard turbo radiator doesn’t have a rad cap and relies on this line to help fill the radiator when replacing coolant/initial fill after rebuild etc. Green as stated is the radiator overflow. Think of the cooling system as being upside down. The heater, oil cooler and turbo circuits (including the remote reservoir) come from the block to the turbo, oil cooler and heater independently and return to the waterpump independently. This coolant comes in at the back of the thermostat which meters how much cold coolant from the radiator is allowed into the engine. The outflow to the radiator is simply an overflow of hot coolant and is why Subarus both NA and Turbo warm up so quickly even in cold weather. Looking at a diagram of the coolant flow in the FSM is helpful with these things too. Cheers Bennie

Remove the starter motor hand have a look at the clutch pressure plate for signs of damage. Im guessing there’s no noises when gear is selected and the clutch released? Also not asked yet, what brand of clutch was put in 10,000 miles ago? It’s certainly an odd one! Cheers Bennie

Nope. Well, at least not easily. It would be super slow at best. 2nd/3rd/4th gears work? Or do they at least try to move the car once the clutch is actuated? The thief may have completely stripped 1st gear. Drain the oil and see what comes out with it. If it happens to be dual range like we have over here, it could be in neutral between low and high range. But I doubt you’ve got a dual range gearbox in your EJ Subi stateside… Cheers Bennie

It’s all Lego! Plenty of EJ20s kicking around in Oz if you need pistons etc - but you won’t need them if you look after it (or your mate more to the point). Cheers Bennie

I forgot to mention that about the crank gear. Glad you got it sorted! Cheers Bennie

Also make sure you’re not lining up the arrow on the cam wheels - look for the little line on the rim of the wheel and line that up with the mark on the cam cover. Sounds like you’re almost there! Someone else might know - ‘96 an interference engine? The Gen2 EJ22 got a bump in power and I believe is an interference engine as a result. Cheers Bennie

Yes, very vague. Thought adding the manuals can’t be driven in front wheel drive would have all bases covered Cheers Bennie

If a manual gearbox you can’t drive it in FWD.

That they do: https://www.autoglasswarehouse.com.au/subaru-leone-10-1979-to-7-1984-and-brumby-1-1982-t I reckon you’ll post stateside if you ask. Cheers Bennie

I love those little levers for the low range and diff lock - just like dad’s old WWII Willy’s Jeep! We used to lose the shift levers from time to time and had to back track to find them… Cheers Bennie

DPF full/needing replacement? Other thought was a dodgy ignition switch. Do you have power at the ECU when cranking? That’ll be the tell tale of a dodgy ignition switch, especially if you’ve got power in the on position. Earths all in good condition? Getting power to the engine harness from the main bulkhead harness? That’s where I’d be looking. All the best!

What’s the reason for moving the throttle cable and changing pedals? Cheers Bennie

Wow! It’s amazing to see how much wildlife you come across up there - and how different it is to what we get down here! That suspension mount point cracking off like that is a bit hairy! I’m glad you got it sorted before it really let go. That could be fun… Awesome write ups as usual! Cheers Bennie

Interesting that yours are called a dog gate and ours a cargo barrier. Ours are typically full length floor to ceiling, some are half mesh but still a full frame - this allows the back seats to be folded down for the extra space of carrying something longer than normal. For the middle seat’s lap-sash seatbelt there’s a little opening in the mesh with a plastic fitting for the seatbelt to pass through. https://www.subaru.com.au/forester/accessories/cargo-&-tow/forester-cargo-barrier ^ that’s our version over here of your dog gate. It’s designed for/main purpose is preventing injuries or death from flying objects that were in the cargo area in the event of a crash. The straps that secure them in tend to have a ripples section to help absorb the energy of any potential flying objects while retaining the mount to the body. They’re also handy for filling your cargo space to the brim and not have it over flowing into the rear seat. As you can see in that link provided, the odd shape of yours really threw me and didn’t make any sense going by my knowledge of cargo barriers. There are several aftermarket manufacturers of them for various models too. No doubt produced in China though… Cheers Bennie

Get your battery load tested. Doesn’t matter what brand or how old it is - batteries fail all the time. Some go a long time, some die a week after fitting to a vehicle. My 5c at this point. Cheers Bennie