Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

el_freddo

Members
  • Posts

    4283
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    136

Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. This black box mounts above the bonnet (hood) cable lever, it uses the same mouting bolts - at least it does in the aussie delivered subi's... I hope this makes sense! Cheers Bennie
  2. Nah They've usually just got a number on each item - crown and pinion gears - that should match, this shows that they're a matching item as you're not supposed to change just the crown or pinion gears, they should always be moved as a set. Mine had "30" engraved on both the crown and pinion gears, it can be hard to see. Cheers Bennie
  3. Why hasn't anyone tried spinning the passenger's cam 180 deg and replacing the belt to see what happens? I'm 99% sure that the EJ subarus are still a batch fire setup so the EFI system should be able to do it, the knock sensor might have a hissy fit though. I don't think custom cams are going to change much, you're going to end up with 1&2 firing then 3&4 firing one after the other, then the exhausting, sucking, squeezing without any power. I can see how the V8s can get away with it, they're essentially running as a 4 cylinder with 4 bang events that can be spread out enough to match the 4th event in the cycle evenly to the 1st for a continuous spread for power strokes. You'd probably have to look into a custom crank that would have all 4 pistons hitting TDC at the same time to achieve the double explosions at opposite ends of the cycle to make it a regular beat - there'd be one explosion per revolution, instead of the current 2 explosions per revolution. If I've got this very wrong, flame away, I'm happy to stand corrected, but this is how my mind is thinking at the moment. It'd be a bit of fun to see what would happen, but a lot of work just for some ************s and giggles. Cheers Bennie
  4. Cheap subarus usually turn into a beast, I've got one of them too. I'm now at the point of buying things like rims and building gearboxes that I've paid well over double of what I paid for the subaru in the first place :twisted: But I wouldn't have it any other way. Yellow lenses in the snow for the win - otherwise you can't see crap in the thick fog! I've done the same in the snow here one year, except I was cheap and used cellophane to cover my lights. Worked a treat! Cheers Bennie
  5. Awesome printer! Where can I get one/get bits to make one?? Loads of potential there! Cheers Bennie
  6. Or when you're "old enough" I could buy Tweety from you :twisted: This is a common conversion from EFI to the old school carb & dizzy setup... Cheers Bennie
  7. So to clarify, auto locker (unlocker techicnally)? From my reading of this thread I'm under the impression this is an auto unlocker setup over a manual locker - air, cable whatever. Am I on the right path here? Cheers Bennie
  8. Nah you've got that wrong mate - my steering wheel is one the RIGHT side The rotisserie is awesome, but I found out last night when finally wiping the inside of the windscreen clean that you need to cover the windscreen from the inside when you're welding upside down - I've got a pot load of little welding spots in the glass at the top of the windscreen that catch on what ever you use to clean the windscreen with. That's my tip. Rotisseries are awesome though if you're prepared to go the whole hog and to what's required to gut and reassemble your vehicle. Cheers Bennie
  9. I would say, from talking to Tweety and hearing of a fella in South Oz that's dropped an EJ in his trike that the EJ is too powerful. This fella can't get it engineered (a requirement in oz) after all his time and effort. Another thing to consider with the trike is that the engine generally needs to complement the look of the trike, this means a clean and untidy engine with a small bit of bling added. I've had the pleasure of riding/driving this superb machine, it goes very well with the NA EA81! You won't be disappointed, Tweety wasn't! Cheers Bennie
  10. With your 4wd lever you'll need to do a cut and shut. I removed the lever from my subi (L series - Ruby Scoo ), cut the tab the mounts to the lever the the cab and re-weld it sitting further forward. I guessed for my application - 3 inch lift with 2 inches on the gearbox crossmember, no lift on the gear shifter. From memory I re-welded mine 5mm forward, this lifted my 4wd lever off the centre console and allows me to easily disengage 4wd now. I should have done it ages ago. Cheers Bennie
  11. Are you going to put some slots or holes in the plate to allow some air flow into the radiator, or you're getting enough air in there even with the plate in place? Cheers Bennie
  12. I might as well add my simple yet effective setup as well: Cheers Bennie
  13. ^ If I didn't know any better, I would have said it was photoshopped! Ruby Scoo, pretty much the same as in the lifted rigs thread, but she's had some work to sort some issues that "flying" created. This was January 2012: ^ Hopefully the ONLY time she'll see this angle. In action, Victorian high country creek crossing: ^ A snorkel is high on the list for the next mods! How I found her Friday morning at Mt Hotham: Cheers Bennie
  14. There's something about the XT6 that intrigues me... probably because we didn't get them in over here! Glad to see that it didn't get parted out. Cheers Bennie
  15. Awesome effort there TheLoyale! If this was in oz, A) it'd seem a little out of place with those retro decals and I doubt anyone would put this amount of time into it. I'm surprised how well the interior's held up, and in blue is different. I also like the instrument cluster, I've never seen one like that before Great to see all the work you've put in it so far, I can't wait to see the end result. Respray and fresh decals in the list of things to do as well? Something inside me wishes you kept it all original for preservation reasons, but I realise that this isn't always possible, plus it's not mine to do this with anyway, I guess that's just me though Cheers Bennie
  16. This morning I had to scrape some ice off the windscreen to be able to start the car so we could use it after it had warmed up: Got a good drop of snow today between our 400km round trip off mountain. It's 3 weeks until the official season opening but it's awesome to see this amount of snow falling already It's at Mt Hotham, Victoria, Australia. I'm sure all the ski resorts are getting some good snow at the moment. Cheers Bennie
  17. This is always fun too! Glad to hear you got the wiring sorted! Cheers Bennie
  18. You'd actually need two pairs Yep. I got mine from fleabay. There was another set on there recently. Maybe if they're re-listed and your super keen the seller might look into international postage. I know it's easier to post items from the US than it is to post them TO the US. It sucks! Otherwise I could see me sending some EJ dual range boxes over there before they're crushed. Cheers Bennie
  19. I totally agree with what you're saying - I want to build the radius rod plate lift blocks into one unit and the rear section with the cracking needs another brace to the bolt that holds the front of the K frame to the body. My rear crossmember lift blocks are in good shape and I'd leave these as they are. Things to do! Loyale 2.7 Turbo: The hand brake (e brake as you know it) is actually from the MY models before the L series came out. The reason for this is that I'm using the same centre console for the power window switches, the only way to get the hand brake to work properly was to keep the matching hand brake. It still actuates on the front brakes, so would be no help to you. Cheers Bennie
  20. Over the last six months: I did this initially - it even cracked the re-welded section we did: Extra plating: From this: To this: To then being able to do this: And the "return of Ruby Scoo" photo - at Danny's Lookout, Great Alpine Road, Mt Hotham: It "only took 6 months!" But it's been well worth the effort. The first offroading trip will be the first weekend of June Cheers Bennie
  21. ANd you were totally right mate! It did just that, cracked around the welding we did. Can do, I'll have to get some organised. I too feel that I need to make up some sort of C bracket to hold that bolt better. But with that said, being airborne under brakes in the first place is what needs to be avoided! An update - a long time coming! The damaged plate, ripped captive nut (while trying to remove the bolt the nut let go, I wasn't about to cut the bolt!) Plate removed: New panel in footwell to help with strength. Same done on driver's side too: Lining up the new plate - "stolen" from a parts bomb I've got out the back: Supportive plates welded in on both sides, the rusted area cut and new section welded in. Trophy photo: Went nuts on some more welding to help stiffen up the body, what they tell you about stitch welding the seams is a big job - well, they're spot on the money! This was an important day - getting it off the rotisserie: Then the slow process of putting her back together began. I fixed up a few things along the way and added some extended braided brake lines, well worth the coin and effort with this: I relocated some wiring - that created some more headaches. So far the only thing wrong is my Tacho doesn't work Dash in, this too was a big step! Out of the shed for the first time in about 5 months, hanging out with the new L "sheldon" that my sister now drives: Running and ready to have the brakes bled: This was a great moment: And now with the rear bar installed but not finished yet - I've got some extra panel work to add to it as well as some rear lights then a lick of paint too, this is in our high country, which pails in comparison to your high country! Mt Feathertop - probably the most typical looking mountain we've got in Australia: Mt Buffalo in the distance: This work was started in November 2011. I drove her out of the shed on the 4th of May 2012. There were a lot of other things that kept getting in the way of working on the project - christmas, new year, other little projects, searching for a job, the list goes on. I'm very happy that I got there in the end! Cheers Bennie
  22. This is a common "feature" in the GL sedans and the touring wagons in oz. It's a cigarette ash tray in the rear door handle... Cheers Bennie
  23. The guys over here take their EA clutch to a specialist and have the pressure raised to help combat this. This is done when the Ej conversion is done on an L series, which would be the same as what you'd be doing with the liberty/legacy over your way. So yes, it is possible to ship it over, but with the aussie dollar near/at/over parity with the US dollar you'll be paying much more than you would have been 3 or 4 years ago! But if you're willing it can be arranged. Working out shipping from Oz would be the difficult part, I've not done it before! Cheers Bennie
  24. Baby Ruby Scoo ^ with suby87's lifted touring wagon which is what I aspired to... Now she's all grown up: I've got a set... or two - they're awesome and I'm VERY glad I got a set: ^ All photos with the scorpions have the honda front spring swap in the rear end, the height of the rear is dependent on the gear being carried, this last one is un-laden where as the above two are loaded for a week and a half's activity with gear for beach to alpine! Check out this beast: EJ twin turbo, 6 inch lift (huge for Australia!) and I think it was 33 inch wheels. Build Thread I'm surprised that Hatchie - the supercharged EJ'd hatch from WA, Australia hasn't made it on here yet, here she is: More pics here "Monster wagon" - built at the same time as the above EJ twin turbo white touring wagon - on opposite sides of the continent! And Sunnie the Brumby: LOVE the targa top Brumby (BRAT)! I'm keeping an eye out for the right unit for me to play with Cheers Bennie
×
×
  • Create New...