el_freddo

Ok, I'm not keen on running the different ratios, even if it is a tiny bit out. Through some other questions else where on the web I've found that I can get the 4.111:1 at a reasonable price - last time I checked it was two or three times the current amount. Plan is to fit another vehicle's diff to the rear of my subi and run an air locker - this way I can still safely use my AWD in the snow/really slippery conditions without the rear end sliding out as it would with a welded or auto locker. Cheers Bennie

G'day - this could be a stupid question from a crazy Aussie, but here goes anyway: If I was going to drop a 4.10:1 ratio rear diff into my subi with a 4.111:1 front ratio what would be the consequences of this on the viscous centre diff? Got an idea in my head that I want to do on the cheap if possible - I really don't want to buy a new R&P set if possible, but I also really don't want to destroy my centre diff. I know the ratios are close, but are they close enough not to do damage? Cheers Bennie

It's amazing what a new and larger sized exhaust can do to transform a car! Are you still running the stock EA82 or have you got a turbo EA or a conversion of some sort? Cheers Bennie

What a beast! I think I just fell in love with another subaru Interesting thread. Shame there's not more of these engines kicking around. Cheers Bennie

Worst case scenario is that you need a new clutch pressure plate - a kit will come with a new throw out bearing too. The other thing it could be is a very low/worn clutch disc, less meat makes the clutch pressure plate move in further to provide the clamping force - thus less movement on the fork and ultimately the clutch pedal. All the best with it Cheers Bennie

When you get the new covers, don't use the bolts as per factory to hold the front covers on. I've removed these bolts and use cable ties (zip ties over your way). Works a treat and there's no thread turning business in the rear cases with cable ties Cheers Bennie

The default forum style used to have a dark grey background. 2.7 Loyale used to post with this colour font and thus it's hard to read now. I highlight it to read it, much easier He's since changed his font colour too! As for the roll over, I don't know why people are disgusted at the damage - that stands well in my book - if it didn't move then the momentum that the vehicle has would be fully transferred to the occupants thus throwing them around with the potential for real injury. Try doing that in an L series and see who comes off the worst... Best of luck on the replacement/build - which ever route you decide to go down Cheers Bennie

It's all coming together for you very well tractor pole! Great feeling isn't it? Especially the engine wiring - getting that right first go is pretty important in my book, and when it all fires up as it should it's even sweeter! Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

G'day mate, This is how I wired up a switch to activate one of the fans: Works a treat. But: If you need this to keep the car cool then there's either something else wrong with the cooling system OR the bash plate and two factory stone guard/oil catch plates (what ever you want to call them) are missing - these create a negative pressure in the engine bay that effectively sucks air through the radiator. Also block any gaps around the radiator, I know our brumby has a good one inch gap on one side of it. Must be an MY thing Cheers Bennie

It's not the springs that are different, it's the strut length. Sedan or 2wd rear struts are longer for the lower mounting point on the 2wd rear swing arm. Swapping the 2wd arm for the 4wd arm bumps up the rear height - even with the same springs. I can't remember what the difference is but it's not a lot! All the best with the rallycross! Cheers Bennie

I believe it is. The rear casing is the important part, it has to move with the centre diff otherwise it won't work. The rear casing bolt pattern is common on the manual gearboxes from the L series right up to the point that subaru went to the 6 speed manuals, this is where they changed if there is one. You can build a dual range dccd from an L series RX AWD gearbox, swap the pinion to the diff ratio you want that matches the dccd. If you go with the 1.59:1 L series low range you will need to shave the ring gear for the 4.11 front diff and even more on the 4.44 ring gear. Bolt it together, wire up the dccd and you should be good to go. Downer is that if you're running an EJ engine you'll need an adaptor plate and most likely a beefed up EA clutch too. Cheers Bennie

You don't need a press - just a 50mm tow ball and a BFH does the job. It will move. To replace the new casing use the old one to hammer the new one in. This trick won't damage the new casing as you'll have a flat edge against it that's not taking the brunt of the blow from the hammer Works a treat for me - I've only had to take EJ bearings to a press. Cheers Bennie

I made my own. Works a treat - nothing like having the right tool for the job! Took a bit of work to get it right but it's an essential piece of kit these days! Cheers Bennie

Awesome Superu! Toonga, I think Superu was talking about the box that Loyale 2.7 turbo had posted the photo about. I'm sure Superu is in the know that his gearbox from Taza isn't a locking centre diff gearbox. Cheers Bennie

If the US market is anything like it is in Oz, that's true as they only came from the factory as an auto. Go for it. A manual gearbox won't be an issue - no computer electronics to worry about - you only need to run the engine. The stand alone won't care what it's got behind it as it will just run the engine. Makes things easy! Cheers Bennie

L series moulded carpet Yes in Oz, but they ship world wide... Cheers Bennie

+1 for a blocked core or a partial blockage at least. Back flush the core, rod the pipes from the engine where you can and hopefully something will come of it. Or the temp sender unit has an issue. Cheers Bennie

Personally I'd be looking for the H6 that's got an individual exhaust port for every cylinder. I think you also get variable valve timing with this one too. The exhaust I was talking about was on one of the above engines. I'll see if I can dig up the build thread on that subaru Here's the link Cheers Bennie

AWESOME news mate! How long was it on the boat for? And how long did it take you to install it?? I hope it's well worth the effort!! I know it will be. What are the specs again? If it's got a dodgy low range the L series low range is well worth the effort! Cheers Bennie

Yeah that's about right But that also just looks odd! Cheers Bennie

Awesome! I want to see pics of this - and how it progresses! You can go the factory ECU if you can deal with all the wiring, security and the possible integration of the Body Computer Module (or some name of the like) which is where they incorporate EVERYTHING into the ECU. Stand alone makes sense here and they're the way to go for power in the long run IMO. You'll love the H6 and manual combination. I've got a mate with the H6 and a manaul box in his liberty and it's a machine. Doesn't look like a WRX but would certainly give one a good run for it's money! With the right exhaust they sound awesome too (like an old holden 186 - an aussie thing). Bucket loads of torque right off from idle to the red line - bucket loads for a subi anyway. I think you'll be loving the H6. I'm guessing that since this is a mid mount that you'll be going RWD only - if that's the case you'll need to find some sort of spool for the centre diff and a blanking plate for the rear output. Of course you'll have to sort out gear shift linkages from the rear of the box but this has been done before with other conversions (not necessarily on this forum). Dad did this when he dropped a 13B rotary into his VW fast back then 180'd the drive train to make it a mid mount. I was about 3 at the time! Look forward to the development of this project! Cheers Bennie

OSF, Thought about an inverter and an electric blanket? Could be a rather large inverter though! Bonuses of this - easy to remove/reverse and if you go with a dual battery setup you could keep it on for a bit after you get into bed! That was my random thought in the middle of teaching a class today... Cheers Bennie

Yeah the 1.59:1 low range will have an issue clearing the OBX diff - you'll have to shave some of the diff housing off the side opposite the ring gear side (hope this makes sense). This has been done in a mate's liberty with a H6 powering the EA internals with the 1.59:1 low range and the OBX front LSD. It's going well too. And this is what's being done with my gearbox too. I SO can't wait to have this box in Ruby Scoo! I believe this has been done in other gearboxes over here but I can't be sure about that and I've not been around them to say how they're going. But if this setup is holding up to the H6 I don't see why it would be an issue - so long as you don't abuse it, just like any gearbox. Cheers Bennie

I'm trying to patiently wait for some under bonnet pics of the donks - when will these be available? I love pics, not having a dig at you but I personally think the more pics the better! It'll be great to see these back on the road again! Cheers Bennie

Good stuff mate! Looks like the repairs are coming along already, and if they're not I'm sure they will be shortly! Cheers Bennie