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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. Drop a resonator or "hot dog" in the middle of the exhaust, this should get rid of the resonation you're hearing in the cab at cruise. I'm thinking of going from this oval resonator (left of pic after the flexi joint): To something more like this for *hopefully* a "cleaner" and slightly deeper note as well as something more streamline so less to catch on under the subi but in the 2.25 inch category so it'll line up with my exhaust diametre In my latest news with Ruby Scoo, I lost the use of my clutch pedal due to something inside the bellhousing. Drove it for ~300km by rev matching before the pressure plate did this: Only took 18 months and about 50,000km for this to happen... Hopefully the next one will last longer! Parts are on their way, just waiting on post, then I'll be able to get it out of a mate's shed where I feel it's in their way as they're doing me a huge favour letting me use their space! Cheers Bennie
  2. I've heard of the older diesels doing this to bring the new diesel fuels we have over here more inline with what the engine was designed for in the first place. With all of these new electronic injected diesel engines on the market the fuel has changed to meet demand with no regard for the older style engines that still needs something that's less refined. Apparently the 2 stoke oil added in does the trick... Cheers Bennie
  3. Ah, sorry mate, totally didn't pick up on that one! Hope all's well! On the subject of your loyal - you know it never ends! I love the way your subi is looking! And I wish I could get mine engineered for the same over here, I've got the setup, just not the engineering certificate Cheers Bennie
  4. It could be the front seal on the gearbox. I hope not! The rear main seal is much easier to replace. The clutch plate might be soaked in oil making it pointless to re-use it without at least burning the oil out of the pad then hoping for the best. Cheers Bennie
  5. EA81 with an O2 sensor?? Unless it's a turbo unit I doubt it! Or did you get this setup for the californian market? You mention shifting gears yet also ask about flushing the Auto trans fluid... What have you got, an auto or a manual? Without a compression check I would say that the engine is just very tired - blue smoke indicates blow by and thus low compression, possibly on all four pots. As for the oil leaks - the subaru engines are great for making a small oil leak in the rocker covers OR the oil pump look like a major leak or a rear main seal that's gone. I'd pull the oil pump, clean it up, reseal all the necessary components and replace it. Wash the underside of the engine and see what happens with the oil deposits over the next week or two. Do the compression check, this will tell us a lot about the health of your EA81 in general. Cheers Bennie
  6. Subaruby over on ausubi has one in the rear of his MY - it's an unlocker similar to the detroit, a short run that were made by a rally mob over in Australia I believe. Either way they're worth their weight in gold and no one makes them anymore It is an r160 too. Probably doesn't work the best with AWD though. Could work for some, a lot of effort! But for me it's not going to work as I'm going to be running AWD for better traction in all situations. I've enquired with McNamara Diff's in Melbourne. Yes they can do it not a problem... IF WE HAD 500 ORDERS OF $1000 A UNIT!!! Then it would be simple after all the crap of gathering the half a million from 500 members to get it happening! Then there's postage etc to deal with... I'd love to do it, but I just don't have that money lying around and can't find 500 members with $AU1000 to hand over for the unit. I could probably find 500 members who are keen but once it comes to putting the money up everyone backs out as usual Cheers Bennie
  7. The crown wheel would need a little bit shaved off regardless of what casings were used to house the diff... You should be able to work out what needs to be messed with and what should be left alone... Cheers Bennie
  8. Hey all, Still after the info on whether 91RON is acceptable to use with these cams - I can't see why not. Another thing I was thinking of - do I need to get the followers re-faced or just run with them as they are? Cheers Bennie
  9. And Australia Looking good on the repair works... Just don't go hitting anything with that corner!! Or anything anywhere for that matter! Cheers Bennie
  10. If you ever look at upgrading to a dual range gearbox PM me as I'm keen on the push button gear knob, the vacuum diaphragm on the gearbox and the vacuum solenoids on the driver's strut tower Good looking L! Cheers Bennie
  11. That's pretty important in a build - as much as it gets in the way! As for the L series 5 speed from this ausubi thread it is longer than the EJ 5spd dual range by 65mm or there abouts... Cheers Bennie
  12. WTF?! So what's going on? Stolen? Impounded?? I know you've got me anxious for you and your subi, even though I don't know what it is I'm already thinking the worst I hope it's a simple case of paying pound fees and she's all yours again and not a stolen/burnt situation - that would break my heart as well. I'm praying to the subi gods for a safe (undamaged) return of the safari wagon! Bennie
  13. That's looking totally awesome! Top effort... you should be proud! Cheers Bennie
  14. And it saves heaps on fuel and energy used for driving! I'm saving about 1L per hundred km on cruise compared to using the foot... Cheers Bennie
  15. PM taza on ausubi for his foz VIN, but I think that's a 2001 model, still the 2L that you're after though. What I think they mean by "they do not interchange" is "We're just covering our arses so nothing gets put back on us" as we all know the subarus are like lego. You just have to know what bits you need and what bits you need to swap out to match the first bits you need Clear as mud?? Cheers Bennie
  16. Yeah if you don't have the proper equipment or a mate that's got the gear, then it'll be a difficult process. I'll get on to a mate who's done it before, I've only read about it and know that it needs to be done for these final ratios with the L series low range. When you drop it all in it's pretty apparent what needs work done... Yes it would - case internals are pretty much the exact same for the front cases. There's a couple of differences such as the low range light which I forgot to mention The EJ use the selector fork to trigger the low range light via a switch that is mounted directly above the fork - the fork has a tab on it to push the button. The other real difference is the bellhousing design for the different stud pattern. The only real downer about this is that you have to use the adaptor plate and worst of all the EA clutch setup - which should probably be beefed up = more $$$s needed... Cheers Bennie
  17. Thanks GD, that's great to know! Cheers Bennie
  18. Yes but if it is outside the adjustable area then it won't work... everything has a limit, I want to be within the limiting area, not outside it! Cheers Bennie
  19. Oh-o... What have I started now?? :D Very true as the engine is worked in its torque range meaning less revs for the same momentum build compared to an NA that would rev higher to get the same momentum built up... That's the raw basic idea anyway. You just need to drive it with a light foot - once you plant it you can kiss your fuel economy goodbye! Cheers Bennie
  20. Another thing I should have asked is can I still run with regular (91RON) or do I need to run premium (98RON)? Cheers Bennie
  21. Propane aside - what have people found to be the best ECU to run the frankenmotor with cams - the 2.5 litre ECU and wiring or the OBDII 2.2 litre ECU and wiring? This thing sounds like it's going to be off its tits once its going! Will be watching this thread Cheers Bennie
  22. I'm just throwing this out there as you're looking at going for FI. Do what you want with this idea: Ever thought about a supercharger? A toyota SC12 or SC14 would be a great upgrade to the EA81 especially if you're going with FI! Advantages are boost off the line, you can set it up so that the supercharger is on or off via a toggle switch on the dash if you get the unit with the clutched pulley. Not meaning to throw a spanner in the works for you. It does seem like an interesting build. I'd be keen to see some pics! Cheers Bennie
  23. Watched and commented Cheers Bennie
  24. Or reverse is dead... Drain the tranny oil and see what comes out with it. Any metal bits will tell you that something's not 100% internally. I hope for you that it's a dodgy linkage, but if you can get 5th no problems I doubt its a shifter linkage. Cheers Bennie
  25. You don't need to do that. It's all about learning here Cheers Bennie
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