el_freddo

I used a slide hammer with a hook like attachment on the end to pull the gudgeon pins out. The clips that hold them in were removed with long nosed pliers from memory. Cheers Bennie

I hope he put all the little balls and spring back in the right places for the 4wd and low 4wd gear engagement mechanisms - its pretty messy in there! Need a keen eye or loads of pics for every step of the way. No kidding! Hope its just an adjustment that's needed, the other option I've mentioned would not be fun Cheers Bennie

I'm still not convinced that you've spun a bearing - and I hope for your wallet that you haven't either! Might as well rebuild the engine or do an EJ conversion - they're about the same cost once you lay it out on paper if you do you're own labour on the conversion... Anyway, the only way to know if you'll need to go oversize is once you've pulled the engine down and checke that the crank is still within specification for the standard bearing - otherwise its a grind and oversized bearings. Cheers Bennie

Will you be using an adaptor plate for the fitting of the RX AWD tranny or will you use the EJ front half casings with the RX gearsets fitted to make it bolt directly up to EJ engine? The advantage of the re-casing of the RX internals is that you get to retain the stock EJ clutch setup. I've done this with my L series EJ conversion. Gearbox bolts straight in as factory with the EJ - in the L series anyway (gearbox crossmember will be different in later model subi's for the Rx tranny). Looks like it will be an interesting build! Cheers Bennie

So what will you be filling the rest of the engine bay with??? Sooo much room if you've only got effectively half a stock rotary in there! The gearing will be interesting to work out - really need to know how this rotary performs on the street to get any idea of whether or not the stock subaru ratios will work with this engine. As for the 4 or 5 speed question - 5 speed has a much better "step gap" to the top gear by splitting it with another gear. I've had loads with the 4 speed that bogged the EA81 going from 3rd to 4th unless you really flogged the engine to "jump" the gap in the revs between the different gears. The 5 speed is generally nicer to drive, feels better in the gear changes unless the 4 speed has new gear lever bushes installed. The L series 5 speed is basically the same as the EJ/Legacy 5 speed, well over here it is as we've got the dual range function on the EJ/legacy 5 speed gearboxes where as I believe that you missed out on this in the US. Hope this gives you something to think about/research. Cheers Bennie

I had the same problem with my rear diff the first time I took it out. This is how I did it - I was able to re-use the drive shaft, its still in the subi now ^ removed the diff for a welded unit. Point and shoot offroading from then on! This is an old pic trying to show what I had done. The grey lines are the wire that was used to hold the CV in place - cable ties work well too I used an angle grinder to grind the pin down to the stub axle so I could get the CV shaft off. After this was achieved I then smashed the remaining roll pin out of the stub axle until I had it all clear again. Worked a treat and I would do it again if needed. Cheers Bennie

G'day all! I ran with the stock L series exhaust modified to fit to the factory EJ22 Y pipe on my '88 L wagon. Before heading to the snow last year I "lashed out" on a new exhaust setup that also tucked up where it should be with the three inch lift. Here's some pics of the setup - 2.25 inch cat back with resonator and new rear muffler "to release the subi burble" which the exhaust shop got right. A nice note, not really refined but still sounds the goods! Pics: ^ I was hoping for a hotdog style resonator but this is what I got - beggers can't be choosers! And a flexi joint is a must to stop vibration through the exhaust system. And a video of the note while climbing Mt Hotham from Harrietville in Victoria Australia - gets a little repetitive! Love the note and the perceived performance gain if there's actually any there. I know she loves to rev easier! Well worth the money for such a "small" mod! I really enjoy my subi a pot load more since the exhaust - plus the tucking it up under the vehicle again has been very valuable offroading Cheers Bennie

... and where can I find out about the BYB and/or hatch patrol? Cheers Bennie

I'm sure I've spoken to the same guy as well - got the same response. I'd love to win some money from the lottery to get this happening... Just need to win the lottery as this will be the only way I personally could get this moving. I have contacted some diff locker manufacturers with the following responses: ARB flat out said it can't be done the first time around. Last time I emailed them they said the diff would not be able to with stand such forces. I have emailed them back about the auto unlocker I know of and have not recieved a reply as of yet... TJM are starting up a manual locker production. I've emailed them as well. Their response was a long the lines of "we're focusing on the well known brands and models used in offroading, once we have sucessfully established this we may look into the R160 diff design" or something of the like. So at the very least if it does happen with this mob it will be a few years at the least before something is available. I have also contacted some chinese diff locker producers that I found on google. I don't know how legit they are or what not, but I've not had a response from any of them. They could be learing english but who knows... 1) been there done that, back with this setup now for snow travel in winter 2) did this mod and it was the best offroad mod I've done to my subi - "point and shoot" was the motto with a welded rear. Got my subi into places it shouldn't have without lift or larger tyres! More on why I want a manual locker later in this thread. 3) Not an option. Love my subi and love showing others what my modified subaru can do in the scrub. Because those of us who are truly after one are hoping that someone/something/this group and discussion result in a suitable manual locking rear setup for our subi's. B, maybe you kept breaking your subi because you asked way too much of it OR you didn't know how to drive your subi in rough terrain while also preserving the mechanical health of your vehicle. Why do I want a manual diff locker?? I'm building my subi for a purpose. A hard core offroader - not rock crawler (even the big rigs can't do this unless its very heavily modifed to comp truck level IMO) - that is also a great tourer and daily driver. What I have now is EJ22 stock L series gearbox, 3.7 ratio diffs and 27 inch tyres. That is a great setup for a subi, an LSD even better, but I'm going one further - the gearbox is going to be swapped out for one of the dual range L series AWD centre diff locking gearbox with 4.11 ratio diffs. THIS is the reason why I want the manual diff locker. A welded diff and removing a drive shaft with AWD will not work for me, nor would the same setup with a free wheeling hub or the like. An auto unlocker isn't great in the rear or front for that matter (not that there are front units out there) with AWD - a friend of mine has an auto unlocker in an r160 diff housing of his subaru MY, it goes amazingly well! I've been mentally designing a locker in my head at work when I can, then physically looking at an R160 diff to see if it could possibly work, when it doesn't its back to the drawing board, fun fun. I might get there one day but like many others I don't have the skills or knowledge to machine parts, let alone the hardware to do it... This is my subi, I'm rather proud of where its been (literally) and where its at in its build that continues. The outback was a good comparison: If a welded diff can take the forces of locked offroading - I'm sure a manual locker could do the same with the same strength. Just need to nut out a mechanism that locks the spider gears. A mate of mine said it would be easy to do with some time, a little bit of money (initially) and the right equipment. Basically the go would be to buy a readily available off the shelf diff locker and "map" with CRC techniques (I think its CRC) then down size all the components to a size that will fit in the R160 rear diff. Next step would be to find suitable manufacturers of the components and then assemble and sell. I'm also after a manual locker for the later model subarus to be able to use as well as the older subarus too - the R160 diff has not changed a great deal from the early 80's MYs through till now. The datsun racing fraternity could also be interested in a device such as this. I live in hope and want to work towards something that will hopefully one day end up in the back of my (and other's) subi's. I have little time for those who just stamp this idea with the "get a toyota"/"put your money where your mouth is"... Cheers Bennie

Got some pics for ya From this: ^ 3 inch lift + honda civic front springs in the rear (I've only just put these in and are very happy with the result) and the stock 23 inch tyre diametre for correct gearing and offset. To this: Scorpion Subaru 14 inch rims for the 4 stud hubs with 27 inch tyres. The bee's knees! Love these rims and its a shame they don't make them anymore! They really compliment the L's shape better than I could ever imagine - and the 27's tuck neatly under the guards which is what I was after. I've been hunting for a set of these for ages, ironically now I have two sets plus a spare - so one set for offroad tread, the other for primarily blacktop commuting... Now to get the gearbox sorted so that I have the proper ratios to drive these things. I'm feeling VERY tall once again! I'm thinking of sorting out a set of adjustable radius rods sooner rather than later then sourcing some new chains to run these tyres in the snow for the winter season - no swapping off the 23's to head into the bush... Plans - we'll see where they head! Cheers Bennie

Sounds like a good project with a lot of potential! I'd recommend looking at an AWD gearbox, this way you've got maximum traction to get all the power to the road without the wheel spin. To change the gear ratios in the gearbox for the best low 1st gear can be a bit of fun if you're up for the task... The only issue is that with this method your 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears also become "shorter" thus requires the engine to rev faster to maintain the same speeds as it would have before any modifications. 5th gear is independant of 1st - 4th gearsets so you can find your desired ratio and fit that for highway cruising. Best bet would be the 3.7 diff ratio'd AWD gearbox that would be found in most bog standard legacy's (liberty in Oz). Find one of these then go hunting for either another gearbox or just the ring and pinion for a 4.11 or 4.44 (hard to find in Oz, dunno about the US though), fit this to your 1st gearbox that was 3.7 diff ratio standard and you'll have effectively lowered your 1st gear's ratio for a better take off. Run a legacy size tyre diametre and you'll be apples. Someone will be able to shed more light on this I'm sure. Cheers Bennie

Keep up the coolant and oil - do the usual regular oil and filter changes and your subi should be sweet! I know in km's that subarus are good for well over 300k kms over here, so I'm sure they'll do the same in the equivalent miles over there if you maintain it well Happy subi motoring! Cheers Bennie

No, quite the opposite, they were "custom shaped" on top for the best seating possible. Much better than any jack stand I could find - plus they were cheap! Found them in the wood stack Also, I'm waiting for some 14 inch scorpion rims to arrive I'm sure these were only made by a local australian company that no longer produce them, reasons not known to me - either way I've finally got hold of a pair, once they get here... The Scorpion rim: And the set of five rims en route: Standard offset and for me a better alternative to pug rims that are not as "easy on the eye" as I find these rims to be More pics of that later... Cheers Bennie

G'day all I'm after some info/pics of how to fit EJ series (legacy, foz etc) seats into an L series. Any info would be a great help. Cheers Bennie

G'day all I'm after information about replacing the uni joints in the tail/prop shaft? I know the subaru uni joints are non replaceable from factory but I'm looking for a mod/part that can get around this setup so that I can replace the dead/dying units. If anyone has some info/experience with this please let me know. Cheers Bennie

That's awesome! Love hearing things like this... I've got another one in the pipeline but I need some motivation and inspiration to get it completed... Its of our last outing to Robe in the sand with some South Oz subaru nuts. Good times! Cheers Bennie

Nice ride mate! I'm into lifting, not lowering, either way it shows how versatile these subarus really are. The way it came home to you is pretty much the same as how mine arrived home - except the steering wheel is on the other side and the gearbox is a dual range, so if you're ever going to drop the EJ AWD gearbox in shoot us a PM or something if no one has dibbs on the push button 4wd gear shifter knob Also wish I could get hold of the XT6 brakes etc - then I'd be running the 5 lug setup as well As for the amber lights, I prefer the clear with the smaller amber indicator lense that came in the post '87 models over here. Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie PS - I've never seen a front bumper like that one with the indicators recessed into the bumper - or the high rise centre console.

Damn! This thread/idea died in the arse didn't it?! I too am after a rear R160 diff locker, namely an air locker for total lock when I want it offroad (not always ) and open when I'm on the black top - I'm in the midst of building up an L series AWD centre difflock gearbox with 4.11 diff ratios. Hence the air locker for the rear end. I've been down the welded rear diff modification road and hated putting in and removing the CVs all the time. I went the open diff again after heading to the snow and the EJ conversion. Now I'm after an air locker for the rear - but like everyone else there's a load of resistance from manufacturers. I reckon there would be a great market for this item - especially if it was fitted into the standard r160 diff housing, then everyone with an AWD subaru would be able to use it if they desired. I for one want one and would definitely be lining up (and saving) for a rear air locker for the r160 diff. Cheers Bennie

^ Looks like there could be an ok L series dual range 5 speed gearbox in there... Here's Ruby Scoo in the snow last winter up at Mt Buffalo: Mt Hotham: Can't wait to get back up the snow later this year, will be moving back to Mt Hotham in the next month or two before the winter to start organising apartments for occupation... Love not having to put the chains on too! Rarely do 4wd's need chains, most people fit them anyway because they don't know how to control a vehicle if a side is induced. Anyway, I love it and am jealous that you guys have ************-tins of snow over there at the moment! To cap it off our summer sucks this year - no heat Cheers Bennie

G'day Seven, I'm el freddo - currenly living in lakes entrance and driving a blue L series 4wd wagon that's *slightly* modified Might catch you around the traps some time... Cheers Bennie

G'day all I'm a new USMB member from the other side of the "puddle" in Australia. Been on a couple of forums for a few years, ausubaru mainly. Looking to help out others and learn more things about subarus along the way. Here's my L series - Ruby Scoo as she stands at the moment (with "new honda accord springs in the rear): ^ 3 inch lift, EJ22 with the stock L gearbox internals cased in an EJ dual range gearbox casing - no adaptor plant needed plus I keep my stock gearing for now. When I head offroad her "big boots" are strapped on: Some EJ conversion pics: Gearbox re-casing: EJ fitted and running well: All geared up for Australia day last year (2010) with the EJ: Ruby Scoo in mud: In snow: In water In the (crappy rented) shed a month after being in water: In sand: And hanging out with friends: My videos on youtube Everything on this subi has been built or modified/fitted by myself with exception to the rear bar where my uncle helped me out with the whole construction for start to finish - well he built it, I was his caddy for a day - meaning I was just trying to stay out of his way Future mods: Snorkel, bonnet vent to get rid of more heat from under there on the hot days. I'd like to supercharge it but I'm not sure if I'll get onto that pipe dream. An endless air would be super but again space is an issue. A dual battery setup is half way complete, just need some frame work to mount the second battery under the bonnet. Then a rear cargo setup for everything I need when I'm offroad... Just time and shed space I don't have at the moment. An awd dual range gearbox is being sorted for better onroad handling and reduction of the torque steer behaviour the EJ can induce. Can't wait for that gearbox! This is such a large forum I hope to get to all the corners at some point in time, hope you've enjoyed the short story about my 88 DL wagon and the videos if you had the time to check them out. Cheers Bennie

And I'm pretty sure if you want to listen to your alternator through your radio it's "engine speed controlled" Cheers Bennie

I'm pretty sure the backing plate won't fit up. If this does the next hurdle would be to fit the hub to the stub axle. IF this all fits up I don't see why the master cylinder won't be up to the task... Is this a case of shelling out for the parts and you want to know if its defenetly a yes or no fitment? Or do you have the parts and want to know before you get your hands dirty/waste an afternoon? Cheers Bennie

And here's an insightful thread by TOONGA on ausubaru. Thought it might be of some interest Cheers Bennie

We never got the carb'd EJ engine - only fuel injection over here UNLESS it was a grey import which means that it was not shipped to australia by subaru australia... That's awesome! Cheers Bennie