el_freddo

Won’t be away at links otherwise it’ll be knocking around every time there’s a variation between left and right. I’d put my money on it being the strut is dud. Cheers Bennie

Why do you want to use an EJ PS hose? You’ve got me curious. If you’re doing an EJ converion the PS lines plug straight into the EA82 rack for RHD vehicles. I’d imagine it’s the same for LHD vehicles even though there’s a block to connect to. Cheers Bennie

And here’s a curve ball on the EJ22 - no single ports in Australia, and most likely any other world markets. From what I can gather the single port EJ22 is a US market only item. I believe the single port exhaust head is employed to heat the cat converter quicker to meet some emissions target. Cheers Bennie

Siiiiicccckkkkkk!!! I love that colour! I always wanted my old torana painted in an orange like that! That’s for the update, you must be getting excited after all this work you’ve done! Cheers Bennie

If you can’t get reverse it’s ALWAYS the bushes and the selector shaft bolt that’s worn out. A small amount of play is magnified at the other end of the shift lever. Cheers Bennie

I doubt a photo of the cut down wiring will help you I’m sorry. It’s too hard to tell what’s cut out and what was kept. The way I’ve done it is to tape the wiring together from plug I know are from the engine and sensors etc. Do this all the way to the ECU, leaving out the wires that are not associated with the engine plugs. You will have wiring intertwined so do your tracing carefully! And you’ll find many wire joints where it splits off to other plugs such as the TCU or cruise etc. Work out what they go to and make a decision as to whether you need them or not. If cut, curl the end and seal with some shrink tube If there are wires not taped together coming from the ECU trace them, tape with different coloured tape and find out what the pins do. You’re looking for: - check engine light (earth switched, needs power on the other side of the globe once it’s fitted) - power wires - there’s a few of these. Permanent, back up, ignition from memory - fuel pump relay and associated wiring. And the fuel pump wire too (black with red trace/stripe from memory - vehicle speed sensor - AC reference and control wires - thermo fan relay wire(s) I recall something about grounding a wire to tell the ECU it’s a manual, it’ll be in the wiring diagram somewhere. From memory you’ll need to add this wire into the plug to the ECU. It can be best to lay your wiring out in the vehicle before taping the whole loom. Do a test fire to ensure the engine starts and runs as it should. Check for any engine codes. When it all checks out as good, tape the wiring fully how ever you like to do it. Put it all back together and enjoy the drive! Cheers Bennie

No spring forum factory. They left them with the EA82s. Cheers Bennie

The EJ25D will be fine in the dirt moving those tyres no worries. The Auto will do all the work, upgrade the external cooler if in a warm climate. On the road at cruise is where you’ll feel the power loss - general acceleration and in the hills/inclines. Going slow over rough stuff won’t be an issue. There were guys on here turning 29 inch tyres in the L series with the piddly little EA82 1.8L carb fed engine! The EJ25D will do just fine. Also, you can’t compare a Jeep’s lift to a Subaru’s lift. They’re completely different and if you follow your mate’s lines on the track you’ll get stuck very quickly. Subarus need to be driven very differently. Pretty much the only advantage to lifting and off-roading a Subaru is the fact that the diffs stay tucked up under the vehicle, effectively keeping them up higher relative to wheel hub/solid axle height. This is where the Jeep almost needs bigger wheels to create more clearance under the diff pumpkin. If you want to get really involved, a 2 inch subframe drop with a 4 inch strut top block will give you an extra 4 inches height. Use some stiffer springs (not necessarily higher springs otherwise you start to enter dangerous suspension setup territory - unless you’re carrying a heavy load ALL the time!). The add the tyre size you want to use, trim the guards/fenders to make them work properly. Go off-roading! Cheers Bennie

That’s your indicator to replace the radiator with another unit - go for quality or replace more frequently. Or leave the radiator and do your repair. That end tank WILL fail and it will kill your engine as a result. Been there done that. For me it happened at the worst possible time/place. We were 600km from home. HGs were shot when we replaced the radiator. Your call. I’m with GD and Ido on this one, I highly recommend you get a new radiator. Cheers Bennie

If you got the heater working it will bleed out the rest with a decent drive. As Tex said, get the nose high (do this after a drive now), let it cool right down. Top off then go for a drive up to operating temp and then some more driving. Once home get nose high, cool, top off if required. Done. Check again in a week or earlier if needed. Cheers Bennie

I can’t fathom that temp when we’re experiencing daily temps in the mid to high 30’s (°C) and overnight lows anywhere between 10 and the mid 20’s. Yesterday we peaked just over 40°C and we were still at 29°C at midnight. Overnight low dropped to 25°C. So well below zero temps with engine blocks etc freezing is difficult to comprehend, it’s very rare for that to happen over here, even in our snow country (that we’re lucky to even have in the first place!). I didn’t know about block heaters until this forum, and I’ve just learnt about battery warming blankets... Cheers Bennie

^ This is the most important step in setting up the cam belts on the EA82. Skip it and your engine will only ever run on one bank “properly”, the other is just dead weight and the engine will be a gutless wonder that’s painful to start. Personally I’d just do the HGs and focus on getting that correct. Shave the heads to get the flat again, be meticulous in your mating surfaces cleaning. GD would probably recommend pulling the pistons and putting fresh rings in there (his first recommendation would be to move on to a later model platform as this one is dead by lack of available spares). I would no be splitting the block just because you pulled the engine out. It’s not a “might as well” job and it will rack up the money and effort required to get it back together and operational. Cheers Bennie

I’m yet to attempt this on my brumby. I have the original trim in the shed but it’s at that point here that someone is most likely going to nab the trim piece or the whole vehicle for it! Maybe that’s an over exaggeration but it’s the way I feel about it with just screws holding it in! Cheers Bennie

First link, don’t like the generic advert with their generic pics. Avoid in my book. Same for the 4th link. Second and third are EA82 single range 5 speed 4x4 gearboxes. Last is the EA82 dual range 5 speed 4x4 gearbox. The EA82 five speed will need some mods to fit to the EA81 platform. There are many threads on here about how to do it and it seems a good mod to improve drivability and the gear change feel is more car like than tractor... I’d go with the last link of those gearboxes as its dual range. Grab the rear diff or confirm that it’s the same as your current gearbox, should be 3.7 ratio in your brat. Read up on those swap threads to see if there’s anything else you need for the swap. Cheers Bennie

I think you’re talking about the bush that sits in the top of the gearbox at the base of the shifter/gear lever, correct? Look into the bush used at the base of the EJ series vehicles, earlier the better as I think they’re possibly smaller. Use this to shave down and fit into your shift lever’s bush space. Or make one with a 3D printer or some other creative method and material. It’s not worth pulling the gearbox out to swap because of this issue unless you’re doing a 5speed swap from the L series. Make sure the piece that has the pin through the selector shaft is tight. If there’s any slop do the slot and bolt mod. Cheers Bennie

If you’re up for an engine swap try a low ball offer. If they think that’s offensive tell them to do some research on H6 blown head gasket symptoms - because that’s what you think the issue is with the car. Then negotiate from there if you’re still keen and the seller is willing to engage if they haven’t taken your lowball offer. Once you have the vehicle buy the JDM H6 unit like GD suggested and go from there. Then see if you can flog the original H6 off to a Porsche owner looking to upgrade or enhance their H6 It might not sell but it’s worth a try to get some coin back. Cheers Bennie

If the front guard are the same between models the bonnet/hoot will swap over Thats the easy way to think about it. Cheers Bennie

I should also have said that the phase two boxes are stronger but also crossover to the shaft in to the diff setup, this removes the diff stub axle setup you have in your car, so front driveshafts will be needed too. Someone will know for sure as to what driveshaft will work in your Leggo Cheers Bennie

That sucks mate! All the best with finding her a second time!! Fingers crossed as second time find your chances are low as you know. If you get her back in decent condition go thank your lucky stars abs buy a lotto ticket! Cheers Bennie

I always replace the rear seal while I’m in there as a matter of preventative maintenance - unless I know the age of the seal (as in I replaced it at X date and it’s done X number of Km/Miles). It’s not difficult to put it in right, just gentle taps with something blunt on the outer edge of the seal until it’s all flush with the case. Take your time. Only lube the inner seal section that contacts the crank. If you install it dry you’ll be doing this job again soon... Cheers Bennie

Any 5 speed NA will work. Just make sure you get the matching diff ratio. There are two different rear diffs, both are r160 but one is a “five bolt” and the other deemed a “one bolt” which isn’t entirely accurate. The five bolt has five bolts holding the plate around the axles onto the side of the diff. The “one bolt” has a sound dial like the gearbox has. You’ll have a five bolt. Best to stick to this type of unit as I believe other physical bits changed on the diff. You can source the required diff ratio from other models. If you get a 4.111:1 diff ratio in the gearbox, I used to source this rear diff ratio from Gen1 autos. It could be the same for the Gen2. The Gen1 has stub axles, not sure when they crossed over to the driveshaft inserted setup - never looked into it. Cheers Bennie

Have you poked around the coolant crossover pipe area? If the O rings weren’t replaced with the HG job they can be old enough to weep enough coolant to make the smell. Otherwise it’s dash out for a heater core swap. I didn’t know about the AC discharge requirement as mentioned by GD. Do a search online for a turbo conversion job as the dash must come out to swap the wiring loom. Also exploded parts diagrams can be good to locate the various screws etc. The dashboard should come out as an assembly reverse of how it gets put in at the factory. Cheers Bennie

This is pretty hard to achieve and keep a drivable engine at the same time. Just keep replacing timing belts and idlers at the right times with quality parts. Genuine would be the best bet. NVU is correct about the twin cam heads interfering with each other if the belt breaks, valves will collide together and then the piston. Cheers Bennie

I reckon you’ll find that boatiness is from sagged springs. Put a fresh set of springs in and it’ll transform your ride quality. Cheers Bennie

Does the shudder ONLY occur when the clutch is being slipped? I was thinking some issue of a shot driveshaft/half shaft that works the centre diff that’s shot. But that doesn’t work out as the centre diff would be under most load when going hard in this situation. Plus you’ll hear the typical knocking when doing a U turn in either direction. So that’s out. Other thought if it’s occurring when slipping is that the pressure plate is warped or the flywheel is full of heat stress cracks/wasn’t shaved properly. Last out there thought is your flywheel is loose, but this usually results quickly in other issues, like the flywheel parting company with everything else and exiting out the bell housing in whatever direction it feels like... Ok, last last one! Got any codes? Maybe you have a partial misfire or some issue where a cylinder is down on power at low throttle but makes up for it at full throttle for some reason. Or you have fuel pressure issues... Cheers Bennie