el_freddo

Gross generalisation warning!! My mum and mother in-law both drive manuals full time. My wife knows how to drive a manual and is quite competent. Before we met she only drove auto. My sister drives a manual, my cousin ten years younger than me drives a manual. Generally females will go an auto over a manual, but that doesn’t mean they don’t know how to drive a manual/stick shift. Cheers Bennie

Have you looked into new turbos from the likes of the ATV crowd? They’d be about the right size for the EA82T. Cost will be the limiting factor here I reckon. Cheers Bennie

^ my thoughts too Cheers Bennie

Umm... mtb’s as in mountain bikes? That’s a little different than the internal operations of an engine Jonno!! That will fill a bit of a gap or slack in the system rather than using the rocker adjustment setup. But it won’t provide any extra lift/opening to the valve’s movement. Cheers Bennie

You will want a full body lift kit. This drops the suspension subframes down with the struts allowing for larger wheels. Adding just spring Lift will take away from your drool or down travel from the normal ride height of the suspension. If you go this way, you’ll chew out your CV joints in no time flat and off-road you’ll lift wheels all the time. Cheers Bennie

Who knows, it could dramatically effect the performance if the valves are not opened far enough. I’d split the block while it’s just a short block and matech the cam to the lifters or vice versa. You’re already there basically. Cheers Bennie

Hydraulic lifter cams will usually have a higher profile/larger lobes for lift. Usually. I’ve heard that machine shops prefer hydraulic lifter cams when grinding new profiles for a solid lifter engine because there’s plenty of meat to use for the change of opening angles, duration and height. Cheers Bennie

FSM = factory service manual. Cheers Bennie

You guys get smog still? That’s crazy! I remember the smog induced ozone over Melbourne in the 90’s - we would see the brown dome over the city as we approached from our rural setting. We would always come home with headaches after a visit to the big smoke. Now that’s a very rare event, if it happens at all these days. Thats so good with the experience you’ve had with GD and his crew. From an outside perspective and not ever having done business with GD (never will due to locations), it was awesome to read about the communication from GD’s workshop and yourself through what you shared with us on here. Very positive!! Have a safe drive, lay off the smokes (it’s bushfire season!) and enjoy the ride! Cheers Bennie

The stealing for OS doesn’t really happen here. It used to happen for interstate sales, but with the state authorities finally getting their act together and sharing info, this is a lot harder to do now. Chop shops are sort of a thing of the past really, but organised gangs are known to buy a legit car and plan to steal one of the same make/model etc and do a driveline/interior/accessories swap. Then cut the stolen body up and dump it (probably recycle it these days), after all that sell the legit car for a much higher price and a tidy profit. This happens very quickly once the target is stolen. Cheers Bennie

Is there ever such a thing as this?? I think not. Just scum. Cheers Bennie

I can’t work out how that valve master system works - is there another piece require to fit one of those tools into? I’ll keep it simple at my end - I’ve used this a number of times successfully: https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-2078D-Universal-Overhead-Compressor/dp/B0002STSGC#immersive-view_1575671478784 pretty easy to use on EJ251 heads, it’d be a different story on DOHC heads I reckon. I didn’t get mine from Amazon, I got it from a local store. Cheers Bennie

Short block = block only. Long block = block and heads, nothing else. What GD is saying is that you need to take the 2011 heads and fit them to the 2008 block. Job done. Cheers Bennie

Awesome! I’m surprised you didn’t notice the difference in the cam sprockets - an easily noticeable difference without removing the timing kit. As of why one has seven and the other only two, it’s related to the changes in the crank pulley tab count and how the ECU references both of these for ignition and injector pulse timings. Cheers Bennie

Yes they do. So not only do they get done for car theft, they also get done for arson IF they’re ever caught, more not caught or linked to the arson than those convicted. A burnt out stolen car of mine is probably my worst fear for my Subaru’s Cheers Bennie

That’s insane. Settle down Maverick! Cheers Bennie

Double post

@poorboy87 it’s not ignorance, it’s learning I only know of the cam and crank changes because it effected a mate of mine that basically did the same thing you’re doing... Cheers Bennie

I got an EJ22 and NEVER looked back. What a night and day difference!! Plus the EJ is uber reliable! Cheers Bennie

Black Friday... don’t buy anything until this one day of the year! How do retailers do it? Are they really ripping us off that much to make a “surviving”/living?? I think it was @snofool that runs this setup and has pics in his build thread. Looks like a very near setup! Cheers Bennie

Through the dip stick hole or the drain plug? Magent on a rope could work if it’s the right size to fit in the drain hole or the dipstick tube. Got a pic of what’s left of the dip stick? Cheers Bennie

AE, are you sleeping at night? I wouldn’t be due to pure anticipation! Cheers Bennie

Are you sure? Did you physically check the back of the cam wheel and compare the tabs to ensure they’re the same? The crank pulley can be done by eye without removing the cam belt or pulley. It’s got to be something simple that’s being overlooked like the cam wheel. Cheers Bennie

https://dynamco.com.au/product/446002-autowatch-alarm/ I’ll be installing one of these in the near future. Main problem with any decent alarm system is that they’re typically costly! Plenty of add ons depending on your needs. Cheers Bennie

That’s a bugger about the flywheel bolts! Sounds like you got on it at just the right time - when those bolts let go all kinds of hell breaks out! A mate of mine who’s into track racing has a small section of pipe that’s hammered around the outside of all the bolts and tack welded. This ensures the bolts can’t ever move. If you need to remove these bolts, simply grind off the tack welds and off you go. When’s the next race occurring? Cheers Bennie