All_talk

I’m with Russ on this one, the stock system already runs quite rich in the boost region of its fuel map (sensed by flow not pressure), this supplemental fuel is to provide some charge cooling and a good safety factor. With an IC the stock system should handle some additional boost without going lean (it’s the added flow that will bite you in the top end… fuel cut). The stock system is VERY well engineered to do what the maker intended it to do, they just didn’t build in the adjustability for extensive mods. If you are serious about big power mods an aftermarket fuel system is the only way to do it right. Just my thoughts Gary

I doctored it up in Photoshop (if you look close you'll see the fonts dont match). I gleaned the data from a few threads a while back when I was looking for the best combo of stock components. If anybody has corrections or additions let me know. BTW, I think that best stock combo (for on road) is the RX struts with XT6 front springs and 4WD wagon rear springs cut down to match the front ride hight. Should end up with about a 11% stiffer springs which the RX struts will handle just fine and about a 2" drop in ride hight. I was thinking that you should also add both front and rear 20mm XT6 sway bars, but given the RX's propensity to under steer I think adding only the 20mm rear bar and leaving the 18mm front would be best. I havent tested this combo so its just spec at this point. Gary P.S. How often do you get to use the word propensity.

Yep the RX has stiffer springs and struts. Where is the chart... there it is. The RX struts are the stiffest offered on any EA series car, in fact they average over twice as stiff. Gary

Spectacular... one of the nicest RXs I've see. Great location for the pics, with the right angle you could get a great "walk on water" shot. Gary P.S. did you get your feet wet?

Thanks calebz, you are correct.

As far as I've heard the the XT6 used the same trans as the EA82 cars and it holds up in the XT6 for 200,000+ miles so I'm sure it could handle a bit more power, but at 50% over stock I wouldn't place any bets. Remember its torque that kills trannies not HP, those are the numbers you really need to look at. One question tho... If you are going EJ why not just use the EJ trans as well? Gary

You should talk to Do It Sidewayz, I believe he is currently putting the finishing touches on a RX rally car. Link to his profile: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?u=825 Gary

Ding, Ding, Ding... we have a winner with #2, looks very "Rally". First thing though, black out the deeper sections of the rim and maybe leave the lip bright, something like this... Or maybe something like this... Just a couple of quickies, I'd have to see them for real to know for sure, I figured if I got some Pugs I'd just do all satin black or gunmetal, but maybe there are other options. Cool stuff Gary

Overheating on a sustained high speed is typically poor radiator efficiency (assuming its not a bad HG). Get the car up to temp, shut it down and immediately feel the radiator core, it can be tough on A/C equipped cars, you have to reach in and around the fans. Its more important to feel top to bottom than left to right, it should feel consistently warm/hot across the whole face, any cool/cold spots means plugged tubes. Normally radiators plug from the bottom up but the one in my wagon was dead cold except the top and bottom 2 or 3 tubes. Hope that helps Gary

The solvent trick might work fine but I'd sugjest you change the oil after your done. Gary

Very Cool ! I've always thought the XT6 could be made into a very nice true sports car (2 seater), with a mid-engine 2WD, Maybe someday I'll get it done. Gary

Not to let the cat outta the bag to soon, but I've got something cooking in this department. Gary

Most of us in the U.S. would take a dual range EJ trannny with any ratio as they are not available here, not sure if there are any lower gears though. I would think the LSD would be a lot better than the open diff. Gary If you do find a new gear box feel free to send me your old one. :-p

Problem is that the ECU would be providing fuel based on the flow (voltage) it sees and would be very lean, if it would run at all. Gary

While it probably works over the same output voltage range (most likely 0-5VDC), I doubt it shows the same voltage as the stock unit for the same flow, so without reprogramming the ECU I really doubt it would work. Just a guess tho. Gary

This trip is the kinda stuff legends are made of, years from now we will be saying remember when... I wonder if Pat would mind being know as the Coast to Coast Parts Fairy? (Sorry Pat :-p ) Gary

It’s something you kinda develop an ear for and requires good high frequency hearing. When its severe most people can hear it and feel the accompanying power loss, it sounds like a diesel engine on cold start, a kind of clatter. At lower levels you cant hear it but it still can do damage. And a couple of definitions: Detonation is when the flame front in the cylinder is supersonic. Pre-ignition is when the burn starts in two or more places (one is normally the spark plug) and the flame fronts collide. Both conditions move the cylinder pressure peak before TDC instead of just after, this creates extreme force on the piston (and everything else). Gary

This thread is a good idea, it should help avoid nasty surprises at the inspection/smog check.

Most of whets been said here is good. I have been driving in the snow and mountains of Washington my whole life, learned to drive in the Cle Elum/Roslyn area and have been commuting over Snoqualmie Pass daily for the last 10 years. I will give you my thoughts on winter driving in order of importance. 1. SLOW DOWN, I can not emphasize this enough, not only will you need more time to react, but the car will require more room and time to maneuver, its pure physics. And just because the lane you are in is clear don’t overdrive, you never know when you may be forced into a sudden lane change or the conditions in you lane will change. If the plow driver lifts his blade or hits the turnaround you can go from bare and dry to 10" of slop in less than a second. Drive at a pace that feel comfortable to you, if you feel tense you are still going to fast, if others are passing you its probably not because they are super snow drivers, they’re probably just stupid (unless it me :-p ). 2. SNOW TIRES, while not an absolute necessity they are the best equipment advantage you can get, better that 4WD, locking diffs and all the other gadgets combined. Not to say 4WD doesn’t help, in fact a Subaru with a good set of tires is about at good as in gets, both of mine (wagon and RX) are far superior to my 4WD Suburban. The Nokans and Blizzaks are very good, but for a moderate cost you can get a set of Cooper Weathermaster S/T2s, I’ve been running them for the last two years on 4WD Subarus and highly recommend them. I run studless, conditions around here rarely warrant studs and with all the dry/wet running you will do they will be worn flat in less than a season anyway. Like others have said, thinner is better, for the EA Subes I would go with the 165/80R13. On Snoqualmie the conditions are often clear/wet wheel tracks with heavy furrows of snow/slush between, the penetration provided by the thin tires makes lane changes much more stable. When changing lanes in these conditions, try to always do it power on, power adds stability to FWD/AWD cars. In fact, try to leave room around you to add throttle in all winter conditions, this can be tough going down hill, so doubble up on rule #1. 3. SMOOTH CONTROL INPUTS, throttle, brakes and steering should all be smooth and controlled, if you are paying attention to the road there should be no need for violent maneuvers. Get to know how the car reacts to small inputs, this is where the snow covered parking lot is of use, but be productive, learn what it takes to start a slide and recovery from it, don’t just spin donuts (well you can do a few, they are fun ). 4. DON'T BE A LEMMING, going with the flow or the pack is not a smart move. Keep room around yourself, you’re going to need space to correct your mistakes or maneuver around other's. If this means you need to slow up and let others pass, so be it, if you need to pass, pick a good place to do it and move on away from other cars. If the wheel tracks look glazed over, move to one side where you tires are running in better traction. Thick, wet and sloppy slush and snow is the WORST (well except for 4" of little round sleet BBs... that was a very long drive to work), many times there is better traction in lanes further left where the snow is dryer. Visualize the contact between the tire and the surface and think about what you are saking the car to do. And if you are not sure about how much traction is available assume the worst, if you have room around you slow down a bit and do a brake check, progressively apply the brake tell you hear/feel a wheel start to slide, but be ready, it may happen sooner than you think. I often do this at the top of a hill to get a sense of the safe down-grade speed. Oh, and did I mention turn the radio off and listen to the road, you will learn difference between "looks dark cause its wet" and "looks dark cause its ice". Listen for water spray and look for it on the tires of other cars. And note on adding weight, it can be a big help, my wagon seems to need it more than the RX, it would get a little tail happy going down hill with the brakes on. You should try for a couple of hundred pounds and place it as far back as you can, this will add pound of pound plus transfer some weight from the front, you get a better balance without adding more total weight. For me I addition to all my snow cloths (don’t forget the wool socks), tool box, spare (snow) tire, water, shovel and other road supplies, my ballast of choice is a big long heavy tow chain (about 85lb+) placed in bottom of the recessed cargo cubby. Sorry for the length, I will probably think of more but I’m out of time right now… Gary

I think some of the NOPI drag race guys use it to fill the gap before boost comes on. Now most of them are running HUGE turbos with mega lag, I believe there setup goes on only at full throttle and no/low boost. And I'm sure they are adding the appropriate amount of supplemenal fuel. Gary

The only AWD rear engine transaxles I know of are the newer Porsche and the VW Vanagon Syncro, the Porsche one are gonna be VERY expensive and the Syncro boxes are qiute rare, a bit pricey and dont handle big power well. Some people have had custom secondary shafts and nose cones made for older Porsche and VW boxes. There are quite a few of us who would love to build 4WD/AWD rear engined cars but so far there is no affordable option. I would love to put one under my '57 oval window bug. Gary

If the EA-81 is like the EA-82 you have to pull the pistons before you can split the case. I learned that one the other day breaking down one of the blocks I got from Tex, I guess I was thinking that they would go out the bottom of the bores like a V8... I've been inside enough VW engines to know better.:-\ Gary

Actually, with a typical year its around 42,000 miles without counting normal driving to the store and weekend trips (most of that stuff is done in the wife Suburban). And to think I've been making the trip for almost 10 years now, at about 2:45 a day in the car thats about 660 hours a year... about 275 days spent driving to work in the last 10 years. :-\ Dam, I need a new job, I'm getting depressed now... and after all the Mr. Rodgers talk in the header thread had put me in a good mood. Gary Edit: fixed bad math... even more depressed now.:-p

That’s funny, and kinda spooky, but when I read you saw it on “a TV program”, I thought to myself… I bet it was on Mr. Rogers. Fred was single handedly responsible for make several generations of children better people… well him and Bert and Ernie. Its a beautiful day in my neighborhood... please wont you be my neighbor? Gary

First make sure you have real sealed bearings with rubber seals and not shields, if they are sealed and full of grease the water cant get in without pushing the grease out. And you can do as Gary says (I have, but not on EA-82 pulleys). But go easy when re-lubing them, to much push on the grease gun and you will blow out a seal (you can press it back in). Gary P.S. When I saw the title about lubing timing belt pulleys I was going to explane that the leaking front seals do that for you.