two85s

The yellow circular one is the "receiver/drier" for the AC. Not sure about the other items, so I can't help you there. Is that the factory coil location? Good luck with your project!

Nice Tom. Your wagon is top shelf. Happy Saint Patrick's Day! Aaron

Ouch, sorry to see that but glad no one was injured. Good chance mechanically everything is fine. To open the hood maybe get a saws-all/reciprocater saw blade in the crack right where the hood meets the plastic grill and cut the latch mechanism. Good luck with the work. Post your pictures and progress here and if you need parts. Cheers, Aaron

I had a similar problem with my headlights returning from a trip at night. First only the bright lights worked (both lights) and then the headlights shut off and I couldn't get them to come back on. Had to have AAA tow the vehicle home. Eventually I discovered the alternator was failing or intermittent, etc. I recall also that some of my gauges (I forget which) were also strangely jumping around. One of the connections to the alternator was charred and fried. Replaced my alternator (with a used alternator from a parts car I had previously) and the problem was fixed. Good luck on your repairs! Cheers, Aaron and GREAT write up on the relays JesZek!!! Thank you.

How's it going USMB? I'm wanting to prep and repaint three of my seven wagon wheels (for 1985 GL). The color looks "off-white". The four on my wagon are in pretty good condition but my three spares are not so great. Anyone know 1) what the color/paint code is, 2) how best I can get rattle cans that match, and 3) not pay too much more than the paint already costs? Thanks a lot! Aaron

I am not an authority on differences between years etc. What I found important is the number of splines and the length of the axles. Also I think what the boots are made from is important. Cheers

Lots of choices and possibilities for you. I know the difficulty of the CA smog laws and in my zip it's every two years like it or not. I prefer having more than one car so when things like this occur you can drive one and take your time to get parts, etc. to work patiently on the other. I would keep a look out in Craigslist for a deal on an acceptable and properly maintained (records of maintenance/repairs etc) second vehicle. There are lots of great deals for hard cash on used vehicles if you get familiar with searching in your area(s), calling/emailing questions before going to see the car, and nailing down a price range that is agreed on prior to your visit also. But also know what your looking at and whats a deal because the good ones get snatched up. Not exactly what you were asking but good luck on what you decide. Cheers, Aaron

20 years been using Valvoline 10W-40 which is what the Subaru expert I knew then recommended. Also he recommended only Genuine Subaru (or equivalent) oil filters, never shift into/ out of 4X4 while turning, and to always keep and eye on the water & oil levels.

Welcome and nice wagon!

...Sounds amazing and looking forward to seeing what you do. Cheers

LOL! Same with mine. Sometime altitude seems to affect mine. So prominently displayed on the dash yet mine is usually blank too, as if time is not a worry. Cheers!

Aside from DaveT's good advice, call a dealer or an online Subaru OEM parts seller when you have some time to get through to a person. I forgot the one that helped me with ordering factory parts but the guy was knowledgeable and looked up several parts based on the year, make, & model. With his computer he was able to report how many were left, in the country, of this or that and give me a price. All the dealers I tried to call were a waste of time because I usually was left to "leave a message". Many of the parts are NLA, no longer available, but many ARE still available. Those don't seem like they would be uncommon or very expensive. I would like to get some for future use so I am curious as to what you find. Good luck and post what you find. Cheers & thanks.

Sweet condition! No cancer rust anywhere? Must have been well looked after, ...nice. What year and how many miles? I can't help with your other questions, but the holes look strange to me also. Maybe the air shocks can be redone with low-tech regular shocks. Looks great and good luck the car.

Not correct. The engine stays where it is. I removed the driveshaft and the tranny completely out, cleaned the tranny, mounted the new clutch, I may have also replaced the slave cylinder...can't remember. Either the engine or the tranny must come out I think. Here's a link to that other thread. Best wishes, Aaron http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156571-pitch-stopper-for-a-lifted-88-gl-clutch-replacement-tips/

To each their own on how to do it. I did this job on my wagon while in my driveway with stands and a floor-jack. I pulled the driveshaft, then the tranny. First time took all day (8hrs) for removal and reinstall. I didn't know how to carefully put in the new rear main seal or how critical it was. I damaged the seal and had to do the job a second time which only took about 4hrs that time. 1) The seal is critical and 2) you can buy an inexpensive "clutch alignment tool" which helps a lot. This was 20 years years ago and the same clutch and tranny are doing just great. I wrote about this in a different post and others chimed in with a lot of helpful tips. Good luck with the job.

I have owned my 85 GL for 20 years and it still has the stock carb. Runs amazing. Front wheel drive (FWD) normally with a dual range, high and low 4X4 (4WD) 5 speed transmission on demand and I average 23 mpg. 4 cylinder, idles great, no smoke, quiet, great off-road to a degree limited by clearance. Sand, snow, mud, water, rocks, narrow desert trails ....no problems. Simple. No power options & no power steering. Fun to drive and agile. Once I had a shop put a new gasket in the carb ..or something I forget exactly. Everything emissions wise is stock on my wagon because you can't change it or change to weber if you live in a CA zip code which requires smog every two years. The CA smog laws are really pissing me off and I need to learn how to get a P.O. box/ mail box in a different zip code to avoid biannual smog tests. It's non-sense but beware of the CA smog bullshit. Last time it cost me $604 for Catalytic converter and time and labor to get it to pass. And my wagon is sitting at the shop again now waiting to "get it to pass". Hope this helps, cheers!

Nice Subarus!!

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5329179653.html

Any luck finding that part you need? I know somebody here must have one. They just haven't seen your post. Good luck on it again. Aaron

My 1985 1800 Subaru "For U.S.A" parts book only has part numbers for the whole distributor assembly and not separate numbers for cap, rotor, etc. The book lists 6 different distributor part numbers for 1985 and they all start out with 22100. Sorry can't help you more about the 88/94 to 85/87 interchange questions.

Nice work ragingbull. It looks so easy just flip to the next picture and ...boom it's done. That brat looks awesome!

I have a pair driver/passenger front headlights from an 1985 wagon. Not sure if they are what you need but here's the post with the photos: Good luck with your search. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156081-1985-glgl10-wagon-parts-stash/

Nice....great car! The parts I had were for an 85 GL wagon. Take care.

Looking at your photo maybe you're psychic, ......but I'm not. We could use year, make, model, and maybe a photo of the piece you have/need for your Subaru. Good luck and I hope you get it replaced or straightened out. Cheers

Beautiful Brat and great work on it. Well done.