rdweninger

Come on ... at least use pressure treated 2x8. Have some respect ! I like the angled ends for beauty treatment.

The #1 on your disty is closest to the firewall. Make sure the plug wires are correct. 1-3-2-4 is the firing order - Counter clockwise.

Choke is reducing the amount of air thru the carb. Fuel remains constant. Essentially means, less air and more fuel. Check again for vacumn leaks.

I have not been on the forum in a few weeks. But, this is hilarious. Note to all future posters - Please divulge to us members, in your original post, of any involvement from wifes, daughters and/or girlfriends. This information will certainly expedite your repair job.

just use spray contact cement and 2 sheets of the wet/dry ... glue to flat glass or granite slab. Make sure the surface is flat.

no sealant. Just make sure to chase all your threads clean ... so you get proper torque.

Subarus turn to rust if driven on salt roads (ie., Northeast). A little marine air doesn't hurt a thing ... If a guy has 13 old-school soobs and wants to ship one to Hawaii to avoid paying insurmountable rental fees, and have a reliable 4wd for jungle crawling, then I say go for it.

look at keenserts .... those are aircraft quality.

Contact Mizpah to rebuild hydralic valves. Nice find on Orcas. Any pics? I'm planning on shipping my '84 wagon to Maui.. very soon. Good luck with purchase and the repair. Also, trying running the motor in total darkness ... look for any intermittent sparks coming from plugs or plug wires. Could have a cracked insulator.

How did you seal the cam towers to the heads? Not the o-ring, but like ultra-grey or anerobic sealant?

Do this for relay replacement... Jeszek is genius. Google 'Swap Relays Ultimate Subaru' Welcome to the board.

Hopefully the '84 is on higher ground. Louisiana is getting big rain and floods. Good luck with sale.

On the heater blower motor, try hooking it directly up to 12v to see if the motor actually works. Also, if I recall correctly, I believe there is an inline fuse before the blower motor (somewhere up-under the passenger floor). I have had several resistor packs go bad... but they always seem to work on High (4) ie., no resistance. However, I'm sure it is possible for the entire pack to go bad. Sorry, no help on AC... I don't have it, and thankfully, don't need it on the breezy coast.

Just more assurance that these guys know what they are talking about. I just want to say thank you to Jeszek and Turbo and everyone else who make this forum awesome. I, for one, appreciate all your knowledge and experience.

make sure you face the screen towards the front. Then post a picture of the bug-kill when you reach your destination. Have friend ready with the bug-cleaner.

of all these, my left field throw to home plate ... 7% likely a cracked insulator on spark plug. Ceramic is somewhat fragil.

Don't pull your intake yet ... I don't think you would leave anything in your intake - You know better than that. First try unplugging the coil. Then turn over several times with key. Pull plugs to see if they are all wet with fuel. All cyl have fuel? Good. Next, run the car in total darkness, hood open, and look for spark jump at the plugs... Maybe swap #1 and #3 wires. Could have a cracked insulator on your spark plug - Inspect closely. Check your disty cap for cracks and clean up the contacts. If you have a spare cap, try that. Make sure firing order is 1 3 2 4 counterclockwise. Ohm out your plug wires to check resistance. The ticking could be an exhaust leak from below - check at exhaust to head while lying under the car. Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner spray - see if idle changes.

Here is a similar pic. The wiring comes from your harness, to your fan, then to thermosensor which completes the ground when coolant temp reaches like 190. I believe the wires are blue and yellow. Check first, but blue was 12v and yellow was ground on mine.

How do you tell the difference? If if has a carb, then it is carbed. If it has fuel injectors, it is fuel injected. Anywhere saying EFI is electronic fuel injection. Like SPFI or MPFI. Your '94 is fuel injected - last carb model was in '87 Google carb and/or fuel injector and click on images to see the diff.

What can I say ... The guy knows what he's talking about. Next time you drive down the freeway, pay attention to the shoulder pavement. You will see occassional areas that are blackened. This is where a car was on fire. Fire Bad.

You are low on coolant. When you open the heater, your already low level is redirected to heater core, thus less coolant moving thru radiator thus temp rising.

Is that the Brat that was used in the TV show My Name is Earl?

His next post ..... For Sale: 2007 Outback. $450 or trade for early 80's Subaru (with cash on top).

My money is on the coolant temperature sensor.

Use Precaution - Do not drill out the hole too deep... or you will really be screwed.