JohnnyB

Thanks guys, I figured as much, but thought I would check with the experts. Not a huge difference in price, but the local AA is much easier to get to and I want to fix it while we have a spell of mild weather.

Looks like I have a small leak in the upper cooling hose, I know now I should have changed them out last year when I did the flush and fill. Any reason not to get one from Advance Auto or the like, or is the OEM the only way to go.

Ahh, I see, well if the dealership tells you anything, let us know.

1 Lucky Texan, When was the last time you changed/flushed your coolant? I had what sounds like the same stuff on my rad cap and tube last year when I was overdue for a coolant change. Just assumed it was scale, never used the additive and still have the original HG's and no signs of any problems.

I don't think anyone was bashing you, they are just saying it is not as simple as you are putting it. Do you really think the dealer is going to sell cars and not make any profit from it? Go check out some car buying books in Borders or Barnes and Noble if you want more info, but the bottom line is that "invoice" price is not what the dealer pays for the car.

Close enough, SOA is in Cherry Hill, NJ.

Nice work, you are braver than me! I did not want to risk stripping them, so I just bought many gallons of distilled water and flushed the system like 3 or 4 times. Glad everything worked out for you.

Keith, Not an expert here, but since I have a 96GT I've tried to find out the differences too. From searching here and there, I think the major difference is the 96 2.5 has hydraulic lifters and in 97 they changed to solid ones. Not sure what HP and Torque figures are correct for 96, but the changes made did increase both for 97. Premium fuel was also not required for the MY 97 forward.

Yep, get a funnel like this: http://www.polsteins.com/blusa0posufu.html Also works well for the front diff. fluid.

If it has only been in your family since 148k miles, how do you know they were not already done at some point? You said yourself you have no records.

Wow, I still have the original bulb in the drivers side of my 96. The other side is all new due to a run-in with a small doe.

And don't forget to check your tire pressure. Olnick, any tips for cleaning the MAF?

Plenty of oil spots on the ground, nothing unusual here:) .

Thanks for the TSB, but her car is an 04 Forester, so it is not covered by this document. We'll see how this goes, I'll keep the thread updated.

Matt, Thanks for the quick reply, and thanks to all for the suggestions. She will be taking it in to the dealer soon though to look at it, think it is a good idea to have the problem documented, less than one year old and she has an extended warranty. But we will tell them not to use any stop leak and if we have to watch them while inspecting the car, we will. Just like with Matt's car, this one rarely sees trips over 40 miles, daily commute is 20 miles each way. Thanks again.

Matt, Did you have any signs before this trip of a HG failure? I'm asking because the GF's 04 Forester X (think close to 9k miles) has started to develope a coolant smell. I can see no leaks, but the smell is there. Coolant looks clean, but it does rise rather high in the overflow, almost to the top, but it does not look like it has ever overflowed. I will check to see if maybe it is overfilled. Also told her to start checking the temp gauge which she never looks at. Looks like she will be taking it in to the dealer to see what they say about it.

Yep, mine does the same thing and has since new. I usually set the trip meter to gauge how far I can go, but I have pushed the needle at times well past the E, and the most I have been able to fill up was almost 14 gallons. The GF's 04 Forester seems to do the same thing.

You can find the paint code on a metal placard under the hood. Can't remember where under the hood this is, I'm sure someone else will chime in. Take a look, should be easy to spot. Check this link out too. http://duplicolor.anthonythomas.com/match2/match_maker.cgi

I'm going to repeat what the others have said, just hit 96k yesterday on my auto, no problems here. Still shifts fine, I have had my tranny fluid changed at 30k, 60k and 90k. Was the flush you did at 60k the first time the fluid was changed?

I've experienced the same hard starting a couple of times before, seemed to me it was always when the car was never allowed to warm up and on for short periods of time. I just assumed the engine was flooded due to the high idle and rich running at start-up.

Have you checked out the Scion TC? That car is far from stripped down. You get a LOT for $16,515. Four wheel discs with ABS, 17 inch alloys, power moon roof to name a few.

Still love my Legacy after 9 years and almost 95k. Have had very little to complain about in that time and it has only failed to get me where I wanted to go once, when the original battery died after almost 7 years. Car still runs and rides great, so glad I did not buy that Ford Contour in 1996!

When I switched to synthetic oil a few months back at around 90k, I think it took care of my valve noise. Now all I hear is the tick of the fuel injectors.

Yup, no need to drain the coolant, this is one of those cases were the Haynes manual is way off. A 10 inch extension makes the job much easier too.

I'll reserve judgement on the looks until I see it next week at the Auto Show, but if this is barely bigger than an Outback with that sticker price, I doubt they will be selling well. As far as the Scion TC, I think it is a hell of a bargain for the price.