ivans imports

i thought about rebiulding heads for the public i have tons of cores and a head surfacer and valve grinder the problem is the hours realy add up whould have to charge 250 $ a head or better to make it worth while

i glue them in when i assemble the two head halfs i make shure they are in the same place they were before. I like to glue them as have seen many leaks from the uper head plate were it joins the head by the seal.

the front car wire harnes is a bugger to change but not impossibble takes about 3 hours and have to pull bumper and both front fenders and dash and i whould change the whole front harness leave the rear harness alone

von xt6 inporcheinstein nice job !!

a'm doing that fix thiss week 98 forester no awd i rest the clearance in the clutch pack and clean and check the awd valve body check the slip rings on tailshaft output. And energise the soiliniond and confirm it turns on and flows. a not working or slow working awd is caused by two mutch clearance in awd clutch pack or fliud transfer problems

have five or six 96-98 legacy coullums and two switch /clockspring units out the only diferenreces are if it has 3 wire or 2wire airbag conector

saturn i planed a saturn head the other day was like planing play dogh the aluminum was so soft it smeared instead of cutting very poor casting. and had 0.20 thow of warp the most i seen on a subaru head is 0.02 thow warp

only one time the crack burned under the valve seat and made a path past it was messy head was done

had a subaru carbed unit other day had all the wires one spot ahead of where they should be it ran but could not get timing to set check that you dident get #1and #3 mixed up and running a tooth out on diss

i take a blunt small punch and gentaly peen the cracks closed so combustion cant get into the crack and enlarge it

I do not see many oil burners as they run out of oil and die i just get the compliant that it ran out of oil and was smoking. The last one i did headgaskets on and they drove it 15000kms untill it seized never even opened the hood was a big waste of work energy to just be negected to death. Anyway thats how long it took to brun 4.5 litres of oil

i did a tank two weeks ago was a ordeal had to lower the xmember and the front suspention supports but left it all hanging on the cvs and struts and was able to slip the tank out forwards oh and had to pull rear half of driveshaft the xmember dosent have to come out just be lowerd. And check filler spout first and meatal feul lines on top of tank they like to pinhole and leak down the tank

I tell all subaru customers you can only check oil cold before startup after has been sitting min of 3 hours or it will lie to you by 1 litre

make shure the cam is in unloaded position

I use stock gaskets but do not trust the coatings on them i coat every one with avionic form a gasket every time to insulate the gasket from the heat and oil and coolant thiss seems to holdup have cars with 300000kms on them after headjob and no leaks small step but makes a difference over a 100 headgasket jobs thiss year and no combacks

oh and i have 6 regulators and 4 alts if you cant find one as i dont use them anymore

i changed all mine to internal voltage regulator alts from a 86 dodge caravan with a 2.6 mitsubishi is a 100 amp and only needs one wire to run i used the choke wire to excite it had to modify my alt bracket. Works well have had it on my 81 brat for 12 years no problems. Also check that your points did not get burned from exsesive voltage and the fuseabble link conector from + side of batt. I have a 77 wagon here if need me to look at wireing for you

the small holes behind the oil rings did you clean them ? and new rings or old ? i see them burn oil when the top side of the piston oil ring holes are pluged or the piston is scratched or rings are glazed. The boxers natualy burn oil is normal for it to burn some. if exsesive then rings or bore problem a hone and new rings may fix it up.

i have a 09 sti bottom end with twin cam outback heads turboed and in my 79 gl wagon with the intercooler and turbo setup is very tight had to strech the frame rails slightly and is very close to the master but fitts and makes crazy power. Has a high low 5speed and if you give it full power will blow trans have to drive it conseritivly.

let the poor owl outa the back allready my gess whould be exhaust or sway bar links on rear

warm it up with a heat gun get it as hot as you can have had a few that the alluminnum bonded with the cam is a pain

in the last 2 years have had 6 xx blocks come in with thrown rods engines had been bored and rod berrings were reused or not even looked at. The pistons were not slopy in bore but rod berrings were gone. and all had 7mm oil pumps and factory rod berrings. Have seen better results with the 99 2.5d as it has the bigger rod berrings and is stronger. I looked at my core linup yesterday 6 2.5ds 2 2.51s and 2 2.23s and one 2.2b and 2 ez3.0s should keep me bussy for a while.

try surfacing the heads i see thiss over and over and over the heads must be surfaced or the meatal gasket will never seal for long do a cly preshure test to see what cly is pushing into the cooling system. I have had to redo at least 8 head jobs thiss year same problem. If you dont surface the heads the coolant follows the path that previus coolant took past the headgasket like a crbon track on a spark plug. If it has a path it will always follow that path

sound about right for old loyale put in new oem thermostat oil gauge sounds right normal for low op at idle and high when reved tach probly just sticky beat on top of dash a bitt loosen her up

also has a neutral position switch on trans to tell ecu that trans is in neutral mabee thiss got damaged