NorthWet

Oh, I didn't see this mentioned for blow-through carbs: The carb does not properly sense the increased density of the air being forced through it. Causes severe lean-out under boost if not compensated for... hard to do with simple-stupid carburetor.

Maybe... "If you can't see it, how do you know it is happening?" Does the refrigerator light stay on when the door closes? How can you tell? I used to be a Luddite (the rest of you can look it up when you get home...) about FI, thought that carbs were the best way to go because they were simple. Part of this was seeing all of the Detroit iron with new EFI sitting dead at the side of the road after something fried there $300 ROM chip. I liked being able to look doen that carb throat an SEE the gas come out. What I didn't notice was 10 times as many Japanese imports with EFI passing by the dead 'merican car. Engineering matters... Carbs can never give the power/economy/emissions, in whatever ratio of compomise you choose, as EFI can. Just have to get past the need to be touchy-feeley with the gas coming out. Kind of like points-ignition, too... Corvair Spyder... 180 HP; 40 more rated HP over the 2 carb version. Engine cover has a circular turbo badge insead of the rectangular rated-HP badge. Oldsmobile of the same era had a turbocharged (same unit as Corvair) aluminum 215 V8. As was stated before, us makers did a lot of playing around before they new how to get turbos to work. Then, when they tried using them again, they STILL screwed them up. :-\

My local dealership seems to discourage buying of parts. Every time that I have gone in I have had to talk to some front-counter person, who takes down info and goes back (30-ish feet) to the parts guy, who has all of his computers (and books? dunno...) back that 30-ish feet from the counter, who then sends back info that he doesn't know what I am talking about, so f-c person has to tell me this... I REALLY don't want to spend a half-hour ordering (stock? what is "stock"?) a couple dollar part. And when I took in the apple-cored governor driven gear off of my 3AT, they had no idea what it was, had never heard of the problem, and took them over a 30 minutes to find the part number and order it... for $70. (Another dealership in Moscow, ID, only charged $35 for same part. :-\ ) More than anything else, this "distance" from the parts person is what I hate the most. I am used to talking straight to the parts person, being able to look at the books or computer screen to say, "Yep, that''s it!". Datsun/Nissan dealership that I used to frequent was totally opposite from my Subaru dealer: Great place to go to find parts and get info. And, surprisingly, many of the parts were cheaper as OEM than aftermarket. And this was on a car that hadn't been made for 20 years. (Age of car is not an excuse for being rude and unhelpful.) Yes, parts departments are there as a convenience to the customer, and financially the dealers need to concentrate on the newer, higher profit margin cars. But reputation matters more than making this quarter's profit prediction. You treat customers badly and they are less likely to buy a new car from you. My wife would love a new Subaru (if we could afford it), and I actually like our dealer's salesmen, but I would think twice about getting service or parts from them JUST because how they have ignored me as a parts customer. And if you treat customers badly they are less likely to come buy your expensive parts, which self-fullfills your prophecy that there is no money to be made from these cheapskates. To be fair, another board member has told me that he gets excellent service at this same place, has learned how to walk past the "Oracle Priests" (my words) and work directly with the parts person. Maybe I need to tag along sometime and figure this out. Just my $5.32... (gotta cover overhead )

Pretty sure that crankshaft/rods/pistons are balanced separately from flywheel. Shouldn't need to rebalance just 'cuz you changed the flywheel. I am certain that the flywheel only goes on one way... mount bolts are not evenly spaced.

Yes, I am totally convinced. But... Man, you went to great lengths to prove that your scale works at low weights! Good job doing it though. Far simpler just to weigh yourself, and then weigh yourself and the wheel. That would have shut me up several posts ago. That, or stick a sock in my mouth; I hear the latter is more satisfying.

Left you a post on your "parts" thread. Might be able to help if no one with more experience steps forward.

Does that front strut leak down? Could you just spoof the system into filling it and then pull the wires on the solenoid? Worked for me... You know, the sensor in the strut is pretty dirt simple, just a magnet and a reed-switch. Kind of surprised that it is giving you trouble. Shouldn't be too hard to spoof it at the sensor wire. If no one better steps forward on your other thread, I can try to help you out. And long term, still the option of asking the members for a strut...

Sounds like at least you had some fun hunting. UMMM... You might want to get some advice on which wheels will fit your GL-10. I discovered that my '85 is picky about offset (?), in that the early spoke wheels will interfere with the brake calipers. Made it a real pain when we popped a tire and had to make an inexpensive quick-fix. Haven't tried my other GL/GL-10, but assume the same problem. "The worst day JunkYarding is better than the best day working."

Sort of off-topic now, I think, but... Turn the tranny upside down. I knew an auto-x'er who had a Lola chassis, Buick Al 215-V8, and an upside down 911 tranny (mid-engine with rear-engine tranny in this case, but same concept). FAASSTTT!!!

And a two-stroke diesel should have little problem running backwards... at least until any pressure-lube system it has causes the engine to fail.

Common occurence in detroit iron, pre-emission and early emission eras, for the engine to "run on" after the ignition was turned off. VERY common for it to run backwards, dieseling off of the excess gas in the exhaust stream. So if this is what you are talking about, then yes, it is possible, especially if the mixture is set rich, the idle is high, etc.

Depends on which one and what you mean by "backwards". Short answer is no. Medium answer is: Anything is possible with enough money, time, effort, and money. Wouldn't want to run an engine with timing-belts (or chain) backwards, as tensioners are on the wrong side of the "pull". EA81 should do OK on this score. Oil pump and water pump would be forced backwards... not a good thing. You would have to get camshafts that were ground as mirror images of existing grind (otherwise, exhausts would try to act like intake, and vice versa). PITA.

Cool :cool: if you're right about the weight, but... I'll repeat that bathroom scales are notoriously inaccurate at low weights. Not a good way to weigh anything less than 20-30 pounds. Had to weigh a Guinea Pig with one... Do you have a gallon of water/milk/juice? Does it weigh the same as the wheel?

Thinking about this a little more (I've got to get a life...), where is the water coming from? The water pump does not have a seal to the outside world, except for a cover gasket and an o-ring on the inlet pipe on its backside (car-front-side of engine, towards centerline of car from aluminum pump housing). Maybe inlet o-ring is leaking.

Gratzi!!!

I do not believe that this is correct. The majority of bolt holes have sufficient depth to prevent bottoming. What the "new" bolts do is get torqued past the limit of elasticity, permanently deforming (which is why they are supposed to be used once and then replaced). This eliminates the "give" of a bolt, the steel's inherent springiness, that would allow inconsistant holding force.

Part of the problem with A/C is that many parts are damaged/rendered useless by exposure to moisture laden air. The first to need replacing is the receiver/dryer, the black cyliinder, usually with siteglass, that the high pressure lines go to after the condenser and before the expansion valve. Its desigend to absorb any moisture in the refrigerant stream, so open air effects it. Condenser and evaporator suffer from exposure to air. A compressor open to air needs to at least have its oil drained and replaced. I would go with Turbone's advice about finding a donor car. As you take the parts off, cap/cover the fittings. If you still have the evaporator in the car, you might get away with not replacing it, depending on how or if the fittings were covered. Also, in the US, it is possible to buy aftermarket A/C kits for most cars. Last time that I checked, they ran about US$500. I used to install A/C as part of my job... in 1976. Last one I did was about 10 years ago. Aftermarket installs are not usually much fun.

Before you get too excited, how did you use the scale to weigh the wheels? Did you weigh it by itself, or did you weigh yourself with and without the wheel, and figured the difference? Bathroom scales are notoriously inaccurate at small weights.

Slow shifting: Sufficient clean ATFluid? Have you done any maintenance to the governor valve yet? I haven't noticed any slow shifting on my wife's 3AT, at least not since I changed the fluid and put in the proper amount, and reworked the governor. It's been a very pleasant AT.

I will assume that this is a 4EAT... does it have a "1st HOLD" button next to the "2" on shifter console? (Not too important to me, but might help others...) Did this problem come on suddenly, gradually, or is this car new to you so you don't know? Did you change the fluid recently, and if so, what was its condition? Could be gunk left in the shifter valvebody, could be solenoids not working properly. *Might* be a band or brake stuck on... didn't follow through your desciption enough to see if this made sense. You tested the resistance of the solenoids, but did you test to see if they actually move their actuator/pin/whatever? Anyway, my guess is that there is something gumming up the valvebody and/or solenoids. But it IS just a guess.

I've always been a big fan of using studs, but I thought something the other day that I haven't seen addressed: In this day of torque-to-permanent-stretch (forgot tech term :-\ ) head bolts, how do studs fit into this? Are studs doomed to allow more failures then no-longer-resilient bolts? Just compensate with more clamping force? Any thoughts?

Its the ferd part of the electronics that worries me... Disty edis sounds like an oxymoron. The attraction for me is eliminating the variance caused by the linkage between the crank and the spark timing. KISS! OK, it would need TWO output pins, one for each coil bank. Just need "ignitor" trans/circuit. Yeah, it isn't as neat as I would like it... maybe a daughter board... Yep, from what I have seen, the EDIS controller is just looking for its 35 pulses and the missed pulse. Dumb/stupid/simple. It uses the adjustment value to set a count-down counter clocked by its internal clock. Again rock-simple. Hopefully makes it rock reliable. Just needs digi-logic, not even a uP or uController.

Well, no direct experience with the water pump, and haven't looked at the POS Chilton's that kind of says something about it. But I did look at my out-of-body engine, and it looks like it could be a real hassel. My guess is that you have to pull the engine, pull the crank pulley just to get at the pump (which is driven off the front of the balancer shaft). MAYBE, you might get enough clearance to pul the crank pulley if you unbolt the tranny and shift it sideways. Just a WAGuess. Otherwise, free BUMP.

OK. You're crazy. Now that that is out of the way, serious people can answer without feeling obligated to be silly. Pat

Did someone say FREE??? My fav-o-rite word! Do you still have any of this FREE headlight stuff? If so, for what? Sorry for hijacking, but he is WAY gone to the JY already. He won't mind (much) if we talk behind his back...