NorthWet

The brake rotor and the hub/wheel assembly mount onto the end of the half-shaft. so it can't be completely removed and still have front wheels. Since the end of the shaft which acts as the drive spindle is integral with the CV cup, to make this work you need to disassemble the CV joint and leave the cup still attached to the knuckle, et al. This disassembly is not necessarily easy to do; might need a BFHammer. From what I have read/seen recently, the transfer gears are not exceptionally beefy, and you risk damaging the gearbox if you drive it too hard in RWD only.

Bremerton to Portland... via KENT??? Hopefully, a side trip. Lots of Subaru people around Kitsap County...

To clarify somewhat what the others have said, the timing belt installation instructions in some manuals don't always make it clear that after you have installed the distributor side belt (aligning the flywheel to the centermost of the 3 closely adjacent marks), that you then need to rotate the crank 360 degrees before you time the non-distributor side belt. The non-disty-side cam needs to be 180 cam degrees from the disty-side cam; when both belts are properly set, one has cam-sprocket timing mark up, the other has that mark down. After you have set the belts (including setting the tensioners) rotate the engine a couple of times and recheck that the marks all still line up. Another issue with setting the ignition timing: The engine control unit (ECU) adjusts the effective timing, and MAY try to do this while you are trying to set the ignition timing. The way to prevent this is to connect the single-wire green connectors that should be up by your winshield wiper motor (assuming that your EFI is single-point (SPFI) and not multi-point (MPFI)). These are diagnostic-mode connectors, and will halt the ECU from mucking about with timing while you are trying to set it; just remember to unplug these when you are through.

Status: Still broken. This is driving me nuts. I can get it to run reliably in 1st, fairly reliably in 2nd, so-so in 3rd, and 4th is a crap-shoot. It acts better on my drive home at 3-4am than at 7am, 3pm, or 6pm. Why it acts better in the middle of the night escapes me. So far I have changed the ATF once (including Seafoam), checked the cable connectors (but not continuity on them yet, swapped-out the TCU, bypassed the tranny cooler using an Aerostar tranny cooler. I am still getting a error code 11 (reportedly Duty "A" solenoid). My next step seems to be to pull the pan and check that all is well around the valve-body and pickup. I would also like to check the Duty "A" solenoid, just need to find where the DAS is located.

I would look this up in my FSM... but it is out on loan at the moment and not easily accessible. So... The governor mechanicals on my wife's 3AT are shot (pinion bearings or gov drive gear need replacing), and I am trying to get it limping along as a semi-automatic: Remove governor driven-gear, lock the governor circuit in "D" and shift the selector for lower gears. This is until I replace the transmission on one of the 4 vehicles that I have that need it. (Probably no time until summer, and my wife really doesn't want to wait that long. ) What I need to know is: What is the hydraulic circuit routing through the governor assembly when the road speed is high enought to select the "D" range (35mph or so)? I have tried locking the valve assembly where I thought it should be at speed, gutting the valve assembly altogether (no restriction to flow exiting the valve), and sealing the 2 hydraulic circuit ports. None of these seem to work. I am beginning to think that rather than release pressure in the circuit (as I thought I remembered) it may need to route the pressure from one port to the other. Anybody out there know or have an FSM handy?

Well, I really wouldn't go THAT far. It is just not an easy thing for a newcomer to "hit the ground running" with it. And given our love of TLAs (three-letter-acronyms) and the search engine not searching for 3-letter terms by default, searching can get a little frustrating. I would rather give a newcomer a little slack, and point them in the right direction the first time or two.

Not many things are more annoying than to come looking for help and be told to use something that has no instructions on how to effectively use it... I worked for 10 years writing and maintaining Search software, and I still haven't figured this one out... ...so... ... Try this link, which is for the aforementioned recent thread on a 4-speed auto to 5-speed manual conversion. (The same User also has several other threads on related topics. Search using "Advanced Search" and search on user name as thread starter.) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55659 Welcome, and good luck!

After looking at manual diagrams, and not as yet having actually torn open the cases on an EA82 (Summer come quickly!), I have a question: Is it true that the only coolant passage to the "turbo"/non-disty side of the engine is through the little transom-port at the top of the case joining surfaces? And is this fed from the disty-side water jacket, or does it get some dedicated flow from the waterpump? The reason I ask is, that if I am interpreting the diagrams correctly, no significant waterflow reaches the non-disty side case (and head) if the water level in the disty-side water-jacket drops below the transom-port. If so, this could at least partially explain why the turbo side head cracks (apparently) more often than the disty-side. The "secret" may be as simple as water level and water flow. (FYI: I have been told that 2-row radiators are no longer being manufactured by the major aftermarket companies. )

As an addendum... The GREEN connectors will keep the ECU from adjusting the timing while they are connected. If timing without connecting the green connectors, it might be a crap-shoot as to what the ECU will be trying to do with the timing. Just conect the connectors and eliminate the possible variation and uncertainty. Oh, and remember to disconnect then when you are through.

Jim, you said that you cleaned the battery terminals... how about where they mount to the starter, both power and ground? I have been burned by this problem more than once; typically, the ground connection at the tranny/starter is the trouble maker, and it looks perfectly fine until you clean up the connector and the mount point. Worth doing anyways as PM, even if it doesn't help/relate to current problem. -pat

Do not be quite so tentative with your cleaning. I use a battery-powered drill and either turn the part against ATF'd 600-grit sandpaper or spin the sandpaper inside of the part. I also spin the part against a whetstone to slightly chamfer the edges of the sliding valve-shuttle to debur it, and then go over it again by hand with 600-grit. Don't forget that the aluminum valve housing is more likely to score and burr than the steel valve-shuttle. There should be NO resistance to the parts sliding within/against each other, other than the viscous drag from the ATF. If you somehow manage to take too much off (doubtful with the steel parts, slightly possible with the aluminum housing) the tranny may upshift just a hair sooner. (The valve releases pressure in control lines based on engine speed, so if pressure leaks around the valve a little more than nominal the tranny will just think that the car is moving a little faster than it is.)

Roughly 100 lbs, without torque converter. I just hefted a spare, and lifted it from the ground with little more than fingertips. Can't give you more exact as I do not have a scale...

Did you check the air cleaner box/filter for oil? Could be that you sucked a lot of oil into the cleaner box (as a possibly secondary problem to overheating or jsut from blowby from runnign fast), soaked the air filter and restricted air passage through the filter, causing fuel mixture to go way rich.

Through a can of Seafoam in it yesterday and then drove it the 50 miles roundtrip to my night job. I really had to play with the gear selector on the way out, mostly keeping it in 3rd. Did better on the drive home, tolerating "D" a little better, but still getting confused if I gave it a little more power. Right now, it is acting like a 3AT with governor issues. so I suspect that some of the internal valving is still a little gummy. But it is definitely trending towards getting better. Just got to make sure I don't toast the clutch packs through impatience. Thanks y'all!!!

Two of the 3 codes I got cleared after the first iteration of pulling codes. Only the DS-"A" issue remained after several rechecks. The description of the DS-"A" code that 85Sub4WD gave seems to match my issues pretty well. I finally got to pull the TCU and it looks dry and in good physical shape except for some fine dust all around it and some in it. BTW, in a 90 Loyale wagon it is just above and behind the left-rear wheel well under the interior trim panel. I took the car out for a test drive yesterday, and my feeling is that it is improving, that I can get the tranny to engage and stay engaged for longer and in several of the gears. IF I try to pass to much effective torque through it (like stepping on it in high gear), the clutch packs will start to slip. I am hoping that I just have a sticky DS-"A", and that the clean ATF, some SeaFoam, and alot of patience will clear the problem.

Disclaimer: I am NOT an expert with EJ22s. But I have noticed that the 3 in my experience do not want to start when the battery is a little low. By "not start", I mean that it cranks just fine but will not fire... if I recollect correctly, there is no spark. So... it night behoove you to make sure that the battery is completely charged and try again.

Much thanks, 85Sub4WD. Sounds like it could cause my base problem. I checked the gang connectors up near the tranny/engine juncture, but haven't crawled back under to look for individual connections for the various bits and pieces.

Well, I found the code extraction procedure... given to me over a year ago by grossgary. First use of the procedure netted me Codes 7, 8 and 11; Duty solenoid B, C, and A, respectively. After restaring car and then rechecking codes, all I seem to have now is a Code 11, duty solenoid A. Now, if I can only find the manual that I saw the tranny internals in...

More info is needed. Year and model of car would be nice, but engine type (EA81/EA82/etc) is more important.

Thanks, Paul. Both eaten gears were steel... the second one brand new from dealer (approx $70!!!). And, really, they were only moderately apple-cored. Drive side is almost certainly hosed. Told my wife that I could make it it a semi-automatic by locking governor valve into 3rd and removing gear, requiring her to shift for 1st and 2nd; she didn't seem to crazy about the idea.

I, too, feel your pain. I have spent a lot of time that last couple of months chasing cooling system gremlins. I thought for sure that my sedan had either (a) blown head gasket or ( a plugged radiator. Turns out that neither was quite true (I am replacing the radiator on general principle). I have had one instance of a sticky thermostat, and a lot of problems with air pockets. Every time I drain or lower the level of the water in the block, I spend 2 days trying to get coolant back in (drive, cool, topup, drive , cool...). I have pulled the radiator 6 times and the t-stat 3 times, and I am getting good at being patient. I have also gone nuts with an XT that I just did HGs on that exhibited the same issues that you have mentioned, both before and after the HG replacement. Impatience may have cost me at least one HG... I can't imagine that the water pumps are different except for shaft length needed to deal with A/C issues. Another thought is, does the heater put out any heat? (Assuming that the engine can be run along enough to do this.) This would indicate whether your water pump was pumping and the heater core was flowing.

Thanks, Rob. My mom had been in poor health for about 15 years, but this was emergent and caught us unawares. The hardest part was getting a DNR in place as she had wanted. I already got some input as to where the TCU is located, at least on an XT6; following the wiring back seems to lead to the indicated area. I was also given some other good ideas as to what to check. Luckily, I have a car with spares so I can eventually fix this, I just don't know when "eventually" will be. I had come to the conclusion that the 3AT had either a trashed drive gear or a too badly worn bearing on the pinion shaft; probably the former, but either means pulling the tranny, and I have a spare. Big problem is time: My night has been far too demanding of me than it should be at this time of year. I should be working less than 20 hrs/week there, and have been doing 35-49 hrs/week instead. Add in my day job's 32.5 and transit time between, and I am beat. AND, I could make more money delivering pizza. How's life treating you? How is school?

Gary!!! Thanks for the quick response. The pan did look a little depressed when I was under there changing the ATF. I haven't yet pulled the pan to look inside, as the local auto parts places do not carry gaskets for the 4EAT, and a gasket and "filter" kit is over $35... all special order from BFEgypt. Think it is worth pulling and take a look (and then replace/fix gasket with RTF)? POWER light has blinked since I bought the beast. One of the NewGen folks (Josh?) had given me the extraction procedure some time ago... I saved it on my computer somewheres... It is a silly procedure. I also had thought of bypassing the cooler; just need to find the time and convince my wife to let me spend the money. Have you heard of any problems with the TC stator failing? One of the more esoteric thoughts that I had was that if the stator didn't work properly that the TC would not transfer properly; I have heard of this issue in domestic trannies. Thanks again! Pat Oh, and I do have a spare. Just looks like all of my options for making my wife happy start with "remove transmission".

90 Turbo Loyale wagon with a 4EAT. Wife was driving to work and out of the blue the tranny quit transmitting any (noticeable) power. Engine revved freely, did not matter what gear the shifter was placed in. Wife came out a few hours later to try to better park the car, and it moved, though not as it should. I came out several hours later, checked the ATF (a little dark but not smelly, and actually somewhat overfilled), put the car in reverse and although it sluggishly shifted into reverse it did so, allowing me to back out of the space. I put the shifter into 2nd (don't know if I pressed "1st hold"), the engine revved before the tranny completed the shift, and I got a sharp "chirp" from the tires. Drove a couple hundred feet and reparked the car. Tried to limp the car home, got a mile or so and it quit tranmitting (felt like it was maybe tranmitting 2-3% of the power). Stopped, rechecked connectors and fluid level, got sworn at by irate rush-hour drivers. After about 5 minutes, started the car to try and limp it to parking lot, and it worked fine again. Using a run awhile, turn off and wait awhile method, got it limped home, including up a couple pretty steep grades. When the tranny was working it seemed pretty solid. It does not seem to be an overheating issue, as turning the engine off for 3-5 seconds is enough to get me 30-60 seconds of decent running. It also seems to be somewhat related to shifting gears (though not strongly, as if I use "1st Hold" and selector in "2" problem still occurs). It is as if either the electricals need to get reset or a clog/restriction in the fluid circuit gets temporarily resolved/relieved. I have changed the ATF (including adding ATF, restarting, and redraining to help change fluid left in TC), but this has not as yet made a difference. I was planning on swapping out the TCU, but have not figured out where they put the TCU. Any ideas or suggestions to fix/diagnose this problem?

... one or two of you might have wondered... I have been working insane hours... it is supposed to be my night-job's "slow season", but it hasn't happened. I have little time for anything accept work and sleep (and little of the latter). Too bad I am making little over minimum wage, and two different jobs means long hours don't generate overtime pay. I have also had a terminal illness and death in my family (my mom), which disrupted things alot. I wish to apologize to anyone that I may have slighted or ignored during the last 3 months, and can only say that things do not look much better for me until summer vacation (day job is at a school). I really do not have the time/sleep to spare now to spend much time on the Board, but having had massive car issues during the last 3 weeks has left my family with only one working soob and our Aerostar (guess which one we fight over to drive?) so I need to ask for some advice/help. Oh... forgot to mention that my son got his driver's license and believes that the currently working soob is his! Re: Car problems - in 2 days, I fried a u-joint (and broke the yoke) on the Aerostar, "ate" the governor drive-gear on my wife's 3AT (while taking my daughter back to college after Spring Break), and had a window explode on our sedan (while completing taking my daughter back to college). Since then, the 3AT ate a second gov-gear within a week, and our t-wagon with a 4EAT quit tranmitting power through the tranny. Well, now I need to ask for info/suggestions on my 4EAT problem, so time to go start a new thread... TTFN! Pat