Subaru Scott

This is true, but more so to end up with the proper fork clearance. Remember, the forks are selective and you must use an "A, B or C" fork dependent on the gearset and case differences. This^ is a fantastic idea Bennie!!

If you just leave out the little pushrod, and screw the modulator back in, it will shift as if it has full vacuum. Which will be as soon as the governor pressure comes on. So if you like shifting manually, that should work.

Maybe time to EJ 4EAT. It’s just the rubber diaphragm that goes bad, and they will all go bad eventually. I don’t think it would be rocket science to cut one apart and replace the rubber, maybe even from a similar modulator, and epoxy back together. Thinking way outside the box, maybe adapt a cable to it and hook it up to the throttle.

Oh... hehe... missed that, pun intended. My itchy trigger finger about idlers. Maybe we should do a sticky with a little instruction and bearing numbers listed. To the OP, go to: car-part.com

It's showing up for me at Subaru online parts. Sure you looked in repair parts and not accessories?

Good old fashioned test light is my tool of choice for these kind of problems. An incandescent one, not an LED, so you are putting a load, albeit a small one but normally enough, into the circuit. Hook it to the battery first to get an idea of how bright it is at a full 12 volts. It's pretty easy to tell if you have some voltage drop from the brightness, and you can verify with a meter while the light is connected. I use ordinary paper clips with one leg straightened out to insert into connectors. Check across the power and ground wires at the connector, not from the power wire with your test light clipped to another ground.

Looks like they're still available at subaruparts.com. You have to just enter the part numbers in the search field once you get on the site. It does no good looking them up by application.

Tell your mechanic that he only needs to replace the bearing in the pulley. It is a common size that is available from most auto parts stores. He just needs to drive the bearing out of the pulley and get the number off the bearing. The very best ones are made in Japan and available online, but will take longer to get.

This really disturbs me. That these, and who knows how many other thousands of old parts there are, sitting in Subaru warehouses. With no way for anyone to even begin to find them, unless they have an old parts book. I got these numbers from a guy on facebook, who had such a book, as incredibly ironic as that is... When I bought my 83 ragtop 4 years ago, In February in Indiana, at night, in sub-zero temperatures, the thermostat was stuck wide open. I went to the dealership I had actually worked at in the early 90s for a tstat. The kid at the parts counter was, like, "Uh...like, our system only goes back to like 85." I just glared at him, turned around, and went to Napa. I was too steamed to even discuss why: 1. He had no clue that they were the same as the 85-94s. 2. That Subaru had not bothered to put anything older in their system. I realize they are only required to sell parts for 15 years after manufacture, but why keep these parts in stock then?!? I really see this as a failure of Subaru to support the survivors of their brand. They should be featuring some of our old relics... with the old relics (us) that keep them alive, in their sales propaganda, instead of all the 20-somethings and their dogs camping in brand-new Crosstreks... Forgive my rant.

Really would hate to see Mitsuboshi quality go downhill. Back in the days before timing belts even, Mitsuboshi V-belts were second to none. They would last forever.

Sorry, thought I had numbers in shot. 760123200 LH

I was gonna say the Ford F150 used an inline pump, but that Carter looks like a nice unit! Yeah, I had several early Legacy pumps, and an EA82T pump stored away. They do not like to dry out... Even soaked one in ATF for a couple months and still stuck.

Well, I couldn't find an old ratty wheel to cannibalize for my aftermarket wheel adapter, so I just used mine. Made a plastic bushing to center the pilot bit, and holesawed away. Then flattened out the little bend on one edge with a BFH, and drilled and tapped for the new wheel. Best thing about this method (other than being cheap) is the horn and turn signal cancel cam work just like factory! I had this same style wheel back in high school in a 72 Opel GT that I stuffed a 1963, 215 CI. aluminum Oldsmobile V8 into, and always loved the wheel.

The old ones are about to crumble!

Have a look at these, boys! Still available from Subaru in tan.

Might try backing the rear adjusters all the way off, one side at a time, and try driving.

Already 5 lug.

Yeah, I’m sure none of the DLs would have had one. The GLs (6 gauge) should.

Sounds like the new TPS needs to be adjusted. Cold running issue could also be coolant temp sensor. Doesn't always throw a code.

I'm gonna say most likely it's the fuel pump. If you can squirt a little gas down the intake, and it'll run for a few seconds, that's most likely the culprit.

There should be an empty 17 pin connector there around the steering column intended for use with the factory cruise control. The yellow w/red wire is the one coming from the speed sensor in the speedo. Least that's what my 83 US manual is showing.

It’s only available here at Home Depot, one of our “big box” home improvement stores. I believe you can get it online, but shipping for a 4’x8’ panel is preposterous. The other stores are carrying some pvc planks, but no sheets. They are $75 each, which would be a lot for just a console, but I’m using it already for boats.

^What Dave said. Also try a chisel on the edge of the hex plate. Tap it kind of moderately to get a decent groove cut, and then give it a good smack. The "impacting" action is best for breaking loose rusty fasteners. And unless you have an impact wrench with a socket THAT big...

This is true, BUT... I remember in my earliest Subaru days, when there WERE NO aftermarket axles even being made (yes, a long time ago), and the dealer wanted over $300 PER JOINT. Scouring the junkyards for replacements, cleaning, rebooting with good grease, only to hear the horrible "click-click" again. So yes, they do get worn to a point of no return, and I could never see, or feel if one was worn bad enough to click just by inspection. Just had to go through them and try it. I'll never forget that feeling of elation when I finally got a good set! And then they would last the life of the car.

You'll find the EA71 with a Weber to be quite satisfactory for a weekend hobby car. They rev higher and quicker than the EA81, and are ultra-dependable. It probably just needs carb work and/or fuel pump to get running anyway, unless someone really abused it. Not sure about finding replacement shocks/struts, but the factory units last a long, long time. Unless the shafts have gotten rusty and destroyed the seals, they will work just fine. Be sure to post up some pics when you pick her up, and congrats on your find!