monstaru

B for effort. Not all the windows broke LOL Glad your OK. cheers

The short and the long of it is that your attempt at speculation is codswalloping retarded. Stop asking what ifs......... Find engineering specs on how these pieces break. Or break them yourself. EVERY build is unique.

Why wouldna an existing 2.4 l kit work on a 1.8 liter?

SO,CAN WE CHANGE THE DATE TO THE PROPER ONE YO? lol

Fair enough. Maybe I should cut this one into 5 pieces also.lol

It IS HAPPENING ON AUG.2-4 Can a mod.(perhaps you warhead) change the title dates? Cheers. Cya there fellas. You will need a NW FOREst PASS that is purchaseable in Carbon.A small store is available for smaller items. So bring your major items.People don't mind sharing sometimes.But in the last folks were under the impression that we would feed them. NOT HAPPENING.BE PREPARED OR GO HOME.....LOL

AWESOME........

That makes me want to puke......

Wow, It's not just me.LOL cheers

I am laying it down for Aug 2-4.Is there a second on that motion?Final call on date for the offroad get together on AUG 2-4.?EVANS CREEK Final call!!!!! It is getting to close to change anymore I think!!! What say ye? cheers

Pollen? No, We call that the "Skimcoat of Western Washington" lol

Back to the old school. I acquire3d this through a trade with Noah recently. I got her with disc rears, 14" swampers , XT seats, 4" SJR lift , and some extras. I will be getting her into shape to DD her. Camilla, her we go!!!Should be a good side project..... cheers

I ran extra tube up the wiper arms and mounted nozzles on the end of them. I added another stock EA81 pump and bottle, T'ed the fluid hoses under the cowl, and voile' .The end nozzles were simply GM style metal tube that is crimped to spread the pattern. cheers

Well, ANYONE can buy a Jeep. Now lets see how you build it I am getting closer, but this damn work thing keeping me away weeks at Time is really hindering the build time LOL Besides, mine is not for daily driving. Not even close. When I want to go that route , I will get an LJ. It's wheelbase is a skosch longer than the TJ, but not as long as the JK. Anyways, I will be working on the truck again next weekend when I get back from my business trip. cheers

TRiangle PTO shaft was the best bet I have found. I never did build the shafts though. Moved onto other things. Why not go and make custom rear arms with chain drives inside.A dual row chain will carry torque properly.Then you could have clearance! cheers

There is literally a codswalloping tire thread at the top of the offroad forum.Dumbass. Oh, and here is some knowledge for ya.EVERY tire manufactures sizes may read the same , but measure out differently.

So, the plan is to hook the Sube engine up to the Toy harness. 2.4 Toy/2.2:2.5 Sube might match up. hopefully.

Also, you could research a little more. There is a ton of info at the top of the offroad forum. And a ton of links inside of those. This is by far the MOST asked question by newbs because they can't seem to search. Do YOUR homework, because , YOUR situation is not that of another. No matter what folks have done on their own vehicles. It will def. help in the long run.

I got this all mounted up and started cutting pieces for the engine mounts finally. Got all kinds of stuff left to do.... Cheers

The following weekend? I would be down for switching it up. cheers

So, I made some progress on the t-case crossmember over the last couple weeks. Got the holes drilled in the main beam for access to the transfer case mount. [/url] I don't have a vice to speak of anymore, nor torches here at the howdy, so I had to get creative bending the fishplating for the frameside bushing mounts. I used the old bumper lol An overall of where I was kinda at yesterday before I started. Then adding some fishplate, and rear mounts , so that I can put a skidplate on. The 2" strap ended up on the floor as I was not able to get the bolts out to take the crossmember off. I was going to use it in conjunction with some angle iron for the rear mounting surface, but just ended up slapping some angle iron in there... While I was gone this week the bushing mounts I wanted came in, along with my new 4 rib PS pump pulley, some hood latches , and some new Toyota rear T- case output flange nuts(these happen to be the same as Suzuki output nuts in case ya didna know that.) Got the mounts all latched together, and went to town on'em. Then she brought me out some Break/FAST for dinner. Applebutter on grain bread, farm fresh eggs,with applesausage potatoes. MMMMMMMM LOL http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/monstaru/Toyota%20stuff/IMG_5989_zps440bd7b2.jpg So got everything lined up in the truck then took her out and started finish welding her.This is what I have after last night. I still need to gusset the drivers side rearward tube mount to the main beam, and make the skid plate. It looks kinda wonky at the rear mounts because it is. I am utilizing the old t-case mounts for a dual case setup back there, and the person who put them in did so in a non congruent fashion...lol So they are not pretty but will work. This whole setup is all up between the frame rails except the bottom plate of 3/8ths. cheers

No reASON TO LOOK FARTHER.Just do whats been done.This is not new territory. You just need existing VeeWee strut housings.and some Ea81 struts. Tada.

So sleeve a piece of smaller tubing inside for a skosch , rosette weld it, and then lathe it down.

I personally got a few sets of VW struts(complete). Welded the bottom mount from an ea81 strut on the bottom of it, and then used the VW spring with a coilover spring inside of the VW spring for secondary absorption. These came out to be built for an 8" lift. Utilizing the VW strut body has its limits too. BUT the positive is that it already has the threaded cap up top to retain the insert. That piece could even be cut and pasted though. Currently Subruise has them up here in Parkland. I should be getting them back pretty soon. If I would do it over again, I would actually measure the OD of the strut housing and buy the appropriate size tubing for it to fit in..... you know because they happen to sell a million different ID sizes. Then make a threaded cap(pipe threader ,some plate, and a drill), and make my own bottom mount(lathe body tubing to fit)........really, really simple. Your never said anything about ID. Go bigger. Cut down for mount..1.67" will fit in 2" .120 wall DOM. You know, tubing. Not fence post, or pipe. There is a difference in nominal size and how they are measured. I HAVE built these. Only I built them to utilize them instead of a lift block, not necessarily travel .As there is little gain.EA81 axles could not take the extra anyway Just Sayin. Pretty sure when whoever built them the first time (which I modeled mine after) was a mix of the above two descriptions. In conjunction there are two different lengths of VW inserts. So a couple of different options are available. anyways. If I get pics of those struts I will post them.