baccaruda

I think you're best off making an intermediate harness or adapter harness which you can plug straight into the car's dash harness and straight into the analog harness. It usually requires hacking the plug receivers out of a dead digidash. You can include any necessary diodes or modifications in the middle of the adapter harness.

maybe you need fresh motor mounts. a little shaking under various conditions is normal but consider your motor and transmission mounts too.

I think everyone on the board has considered buying that car at one point.

that reminds me, i bought a bunch of those off of ebay a while ago. had forgotten until you posted that. I still have the digidash in my wagon, and with the tach never-working and the odometer now frozen, and with WCSS looming, I guess I better get off the fence, hm?

that would just pull it out of third more often.

an EJ would be a much heavier car. Your engine would ping like a bastard.

I think they're like $60 each.. get the part number and shop online for your best bet.

red then?

You should paint those wheels white and do the green insets thing.

I (of course) remember the picture but don't remember the story.. did he get stuck or just drive in too far?

whatever helps you sleep at night!

holy CRAP! Those are NOT the same rims!

the starter hole trick is super great to know. It's a little hard with a standard box/open wrench, but one with an offset neck is perfect for this. I'd rather carry such a wrench than a clutch alignment tool, becuse the wrench will be useful for more than one thing. I will use the tool if I have one, though, because it's faster.

pics or it didn't happen

I'm lonely. Cut me some slack

Sorta true... the more metal and the less rubber in a wheel/tire, the less deflection the assembly will experience when cornering. :cool:

SEXY

installing an electric sunroof would be a lot* of work. A "flipper," not so much. *a lot = too much :-p

Your EA clutch, even with kevlar facing and HD pressure plate, would probably die before the transmission. Only one way to find out, though... good luck :cool:

My wagon likes to "fall asleep" sometimes when the RPMs drop. As soon as I get the car started again it behaves itself until next time. It has a code for the air control valve just next to/behind the throttle body on the passenger's side. I can't remember the valve's proper name. I filled it full of Deep Creep a few times and it occurs less often and is easier to "buffer" by easing off the throttle more slowly. It probably doesn't help that I have an XT6 flywheel on the wagon but a little more seafoam therapy should help a lot.

Hmm... never noticed that Quattro-san had 2WD bumpers... maybe a stunt double car?

My wagon's lift kit is a 4" engine, 3" transmission, and the struts are probably like 5" with the 4" spacer and Legacy struts & WRX springs. I took 2 pairs of XT6 strut rods and cut the forward end off of two of them and the rearward end off of the other two. Then I cut some 1" square tubing and made "stacked" strut rods for each side. I made the length more or less stock, I think, but would give them a few mm each just to make maintenance and disassembly a little easier. Before, there was NO WAY I could get the control arm bolts in; the elevated rear end of the strut rod deflected the control arm bushings too much. Before I figured this out, I even changed out my car's engine crossmember because I thought I'd screwed up when I drilled out the holes for the control arm bushing bolts (XT6 control arms). The car handles great.

can't resist

You're probably fine in that range. It's worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it without them having been misled.

Are the axle boots doing OK?