baccaruda

Looks great! I have a replacement trans I need to get scrubbed up but you're obviously more qualified to do so than I am.. come on over when you're done! What'd you use, kerosene?

That SUCKS. I wonder if the harness has an issue related to the IAC problem? *ducks*

There's a writeup about the 5-lug swap in the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual (see the main forum index page)... give that a read and it should give you a good start. Also useful would be searching for "suspension swap" and looking for XT6 or 5-lug stuff. The search doesn't like terms with 3 or fewer letters, unfortunately. Good luck.

3.889? Is that metric or something?

I think I hate you. Nice score. Do whatever you want with it, but please.. just make it look good! You have one of the lowest-mileage-hatches left in the country.

That means you need to downshift (subies like high RPMs!) and maybe go slower than the rest of traffic. Maybe advance the timing a little (do you have a timing light?) and/or buy middle-grade octane gas instead of the cheap stuff.

1st, always listen to Ed 2nd, http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf 3rd, if your axles' boots are intact and you just want them to shut up for a while, try switching them between right/left; this will mean the axles will spin backwards compared to before you switched them and it might quiet them down. It might also just waste a few hours of your time though 4th, post some pics!

reseal the engine + extended tuneup, new shocks & struts & motor/trans mounts, maybe a new radiator. Modify it after it's reliable unless it's a toy.

Welcome back! Nice job processing that photo of your Lego.

post a pic?

Hey, Bill asked me to PM you his phone number. He needs your address again and your lift is ready to ship. He's still dealing with his computer...

Listing more variables gives prospective swappers a better idea of how and why to shop for deals, and of what parts to replace. I couldn't use the motor mounts that came on my car because they were blown out - they were the round liquid-filled kind. No way was I going to spend half a day at the junkyard trying to pull out a set of maybe-halfway-OK mounts.

Hi Gary. There is something under the hood.. I'll have to look at it. I can check a friend's car tomorrow at work to see if it's likely to be useful. Thanks. "CHECK DRAIN VALVE. Measure resistance between drain valve terminals. Is the resistance between 10 and 100 Ω?" Resistance was less than 1. My multimeter was set to "20," one setting counterclockwise to the MM pictured. The readout gave a fractional amount less than 1 for both parts, the FTPCSV and the drain valve. I put new ones in the car today and it still codes, but intermittently.. the CEL still pops every time though.

The multimeter read both components as below the acceptable voltage parameters... so I replaced them with new ones from the dealership... and they are still coding But this time, although the check engine light comes on each time I clear the codes and start the car, it only throws the P1400 and P0446 codes every few times after I run the engine a little. I don't know how the car can trigger the CEL without codes, but noticing that running the engine a little is what seems to get the codes to pop makes me wonder if there's a vacuum issue somewhere under the car.. if it's been that way long enough, could the old sensors I changed out have gone bad, burned out, from being in a trouble state for a long time? I've been through the .pdf collection several times and it appears there is no map or diagram of the vacuum lines in general. Does anyone know of such a diagram?

I have a list valuing my car at about $6500 replacement cost, but it's lifted & 5-lug'd, and that estimate has things in it like "wiring harness - $300" for insurance purposes; I made my own wiring harness for like $25, and "$450 - RX transmission" even though I parted out that RX and made all but $100 of my money back from it. I also assigned a base value of $1000 for a GL-10 wagon in decent condition. s For JUST the EJ swap, I'm in for about... $500 - free running, good engine + new pumps, belts, gaskets, oil seals $150 - New STI grp N motor mounts $350 - Kevlar clutch disc + HD pressure plate + drilled & balanced XT6 flywheel $150 - adapter plate (thanks M. Rose!) $150 - radiator + outlet mods $200 - all wiring, misc nuts/bolts, misc. parts

It looks like someone painted the shifters & consoles, because they're glossy and tan instead of dull and brown, and that boot that subaru-dude posted about. It could be a reflection on top of the knob or wear in the paint/dye. OR IT COULD BE THE TRIGGER FOR THE MACHINE GUNS/OIL SLICK/ETC!!

Not really. i just found my better multimeter which should make that part of the troubleshooting a lot more feasible. I'll be taking advantage of a clear forecast this Saturday to go through all of the diag stuff in the FSM.

Well, the "bad news" is that the salvage yard ECM threw the same two codes.. the good news is that I can return it and get my $100 back and that I found my multimeter, and that it's not supposed to rain Saturday... This car has an aftermarket tube/cone air intake under the hood; it appears that there aren't any loose vacuum sources or anything near it.. am I safe in assuming it doesn't affect this problem because the components involved in the codes are fuel-tank-related and at the back of the car?

QFT. Does she have a sister? pinksock, spend some time reading about maintaining EA82Ts, as well as turbo and cooling systems. That car will be good to you if you're good to it and stay ahead of it as it gets older... plus, if the engine goes, you can always EJ it!

why not remove & replace the capture nut with a new one with the proper threads? just put a socket on the bad one and twist it off with a breaker bar.. maybe drill or dremel the welds a little to weaken the bond. Good luck.

That's my look! I have all 8 that will fit on the top...

Doing it over again/differently usually means "wishing I'd done it sooner" or having done a cleaner job.. something I doubt applies to you. x2 for EJ25 head gaskets.

Yes, you can disassemble them and clean all the metal parts which may look burned or corroded. Like ruparts said, the plastic may be damaged; I just cleaned all 4 of my wagon's window switches and put some epoxy in the plastic bodies to reinforce them where they were cracking. But... it didn't help much. The relays or their wiring harnesses may be old and in need of repair. They're under the passenger seat and if you search for info about them, you'll find threads where people have fixed them with good results.

Thanks for the reply.. Regarding the P0446, I am targeting the "drain valve" by the charcoal canister. "Drain Valve" is what it's called st EN(H4)-202 in the FSM PDF set that Josh linked. I wish I had simply targeted the wrong part, though.

OK, the wiring harness connectors looked clean and are now full of fresh dielectric silicone grease. I pulled the panel off of the cargo area interior and the grounding point was clean and tight. I just read Mikevan's Thread of Agony and I have to admit that I can't find my good multimeter and I'm not very experienced with them to boot. I was hoping that my digital copy of the 2000 FSM would have a vacuum line diagram but alas, it does not. I'm wondering if the Drain Valve and Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid share a particular vacuum line or something that might be cracked. I also might "borrow" an ECU from the wrecking yard and throw it in this weekend...