baccaruda

Depending on how picky you are, there should be lots of options for gray headliners. They will come in either vinyl or cloth, and in a few different shades. If you hit a big enough junkyard, you should be able to find a good one in some shade of gray... removing it from the wagon will teach you how to remove yours; re-installation should be obvious after that... good luck!

You should be able to port match them too... got a Dremel tool?

y'want more tube, make a donation!

If you built it "because you like Subarus" then who gives a damn about the details

Anytime you can fix your car for $0.25 you don't have much to complain about!

That looks really great. Make sure you don't forget about the exhaust when measuring your rear clearance though

SPYCAM PICS!!! uh oh, looks like I got caught!

uh, the rear axles don't hold the wheels on like in the front. As long as he pulls the axles but leaves their stubs in the hubs he's fine. As long as you can keep from losing fluid, you can yank the rear axles, the diff, and the driveline. One trick I've used before was to stick a shifter knob inside of an axle boot, and push the threaded end of the knob through the small aperture of the boot, and clamp it.. then stick the boot over the transmission output in place of the yoke and clamp it on; the gear oil should all stay where it is.

This thing is going to be awesome; I've seen it in person as it's been built.

I can't tell if they're supposed to plug into each other?

NO I DON'T. heh. It is funny. I'll leave it on till the weekend

bluetooth?

Hmm, I haven't moderated anything yet, where's the ban button?

hey, J! Does your car's valve covers have stickers on them like in Rob's pic here? That would make it a little more worth the rebuild option as this hydraulic lifter motor needs a little less maintenance and has 1-3 more HP than the normal one, plus they run a little smoother. You could always put in a temporary engine and rebuild yours in the meantime...

If you can get the hood open, post some pics of the damaged area from the front and from directly overhead; it can give us a better look at the frame.

Yeah, man, you're slippin!

Why don't you get some better calipers from Pull N Save? They'd probably be safer, too. Or a better master cylinder.. whatever.

Looks nice! Ever thought about tinting the windows?

Based on the picture, I agree with this. It also is a very strong candidate for a rear LSD. For some reason, those coupes seem more likely to have had LSDs when equipped with turbo engines. The front air dam is almost a sure thing for an LSD car. good luck!

When I did my wagon's EJ swap, I couldn't get it to start until I swapped ECMs. I don't remember what part of the system wasn't working. Get another one and see what happens if you swap them; you can always return the extra if it turns out not to be the cause.

The XT has a quicker ratio than the rest of the late 80s cars; that's what I've got in my wagon. SAButter's idea is intriguing but I don't know if it would be a good idea for a rig that sees mostly street use...

You are very, very lucky to have a turbo car with so few miles on it. I've also had some experience with these older turbo engines (EA82T), and while they can be a TON of fun, the heat from the turbo can take its toll. You are in a great position to keep it in good condition since it's relatively "young." The low mileage also makes it worth investing a little more in the maintenance, compared to a non-maintained 200,000 mile EA82T. While it may seem expensive or like overkill, I would suggest you make plans to pull the motor and do all the minor and major maintenance to it sometime this year, perhaps even down to proactively replacing the head gaskets. Stick around here on USMB and make some friends, and if you aren't mechanically experienced, you soon will have enough experience and friends here to make that happen easily.

Here's another version of the circuit boards; I color-coded the immediate paths each wire takes and overlaid them. Here it is larger if anyone wants: http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/667/radioguts2big.jpg Also, the red wire that can be seen right under the fuse goes to another smaller circuit board, and it powers a switch that switches between a dead end and other components... which (among other things) goes through a resistor, and then returns to the boards pictured via the purple wire in the middle (it says "7" and is right next to the red wire). Thanks to you guys for your help so far. I'll take pics of the other boards from the tape player and from the radio soon.

K, here's some pictures of the caps and a diagram of the plug. The caps' dark blue stripe does not seem to connect to any of the blue wire's territory, as far as I can tell. Also, the red wire (3v of some kind) goes to the big cap in the upper right area of the board as pictured earlier - non-stripe side.

The tape player.. uh, doesn't exist anymore. Not in one piece anyway Thanks to all for your help brainstorming. I do want to rid my car of the tape player, plus the adapter is cumbersome and involves wires all over the car, and sounds like crap anyway. There are a couple of small switches in a couple spots on the tape player circuit boards. I'll see how clearly I can trace them soon. Of the 5 pins, I know that: Black - left Yellow - right Blue - (capacitors) White - fused 3v Red - incorporated with white 3v circuit somehow Also, these wires are sheathed in fine copper wire mesh which is gathered and soldered to a bracket that screws to the metal tape deck body, presumably to ground the shielding or something.