baccaruda

Let us know what kind of Subaru you're working on maybe put it in your signature like I did with mine.

bump! Anyone there?

Throwing mud instead of flames? I also agree about the front axle. Not so much about the two-headlight suggestion, that doubles your production costs. I also don't know that it's necessary to have all of the original body details because it could clutter it up. I wouldn't put the stats on it either; they don't belong on an "exciting" design IMO. Poop, I think it's a great design! (Shouldn't the camber be positive instead of negative on a lifted Subaru? )

Your mechanic installed the part you bought, but didn't know that there were two different parts available. He probably thought "hm, this car's harder to work on than some others..." Probably best to just chalk this up to a lesson learned by everyone. Good luck with your car.

"I shot his pants off with rock salt ONLY to make him easier to identify in public!"

I'm still waiting...

Thanks. Does anyone know which other (earlier) years' components might interchange with the 2001's? I'm going to try to find some replacement sensors at the parts yard and they have some late 90s Outback/Legacy cars there... I want to get my replacement parts in order first so I only have to disassemble and reassemble the stuff in my OBW once..

Thanks Josh. I have cleared them with a borrowed reader and they return immediately. I grabbed a couple of gas caps from Spalding yesterday in case they help.. thanks for the link.

Call an axle shop; if they have the specs to set up an R160 they probably know the breakaway torque.

I'm new to both OBDII and owning cars less than 25 years old and I'd be grateful for some help chasing these two codes down so I can get the CEL light off and get this car sold! The car: 2001 Outback (Legacy) wagon 2.5 / 5MT "Weapon R" cold air intake (I don't believe that the aftermarket intake could be a factor here but thought I'd mention it.) The codes: P0446: Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit P1400: Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Low Input My problem is that I don't know this car's systems well enough, nor do I have any FSM-type material, to know where to start with these codes. Aside from getting a newer gas cap, I'm not sure what else I would start to check. I've searched and found a bit concerning P0446 but the component names and locations are a bit vague. thanks

I haven't been able to get my tach to work either. Car is an 86 GL10 wagon with orange digidash. The donor Legacy was a 1990 / three-plug-style connection to the engine harness.

Awesome! Love the sticker on the tailgate, where'd you get it?

I'd skip the pic forgery because they'll all look like they were taken at the same time and it could bite you in the rump roast big time. You might call the state Insurance Commissioner, maybe the BBB, maybe the Attorney General's consumer protection division. It's common practice for insurance companies to say NO first and make you fight for compensation. Retaining a lawyer would cost as much as replacing a good chunk of the missing items. I'd watch Craigslist for a while.. unfortunately, on your side of the state, there are too many pawn shops within two hours for you to be able to check them all, but they are required to watch for items reported as stolen...

hook up a car battery to the garage door.

time for more pics yet again!!!!!

damn, Chris, sorry to hear that. Watch out on Craigslist, you might see your stuff. In addition to the .45 casings (good call, , I suggest a wireless camera or two. put up flyers advertising for that **********'s scalp at the roughest bars you can find.

793011191

That's clever but it'll pivot and won't stabilize the engine as it should. Using the XT mount on the tranny's good but you'll be best off just lengthening the connector in the middle.

In addition to what Rob said, you will need to read up on swapping 5-speeds into older cars that came with 4-speeds. You will need a 3.70 ratio rear end to match the transmission's gear ratio, too.

I had my OBW out on a 3-day permit a while ago and it felt pretty good in traffic. You can tell the car is sprung a little more aggressively. My OB has a 1/5" lift kit, I don't know for certain if all drop blocks are the same depth but I think it's uniform. I cured a clunk in the front end by removing the front sway bar. I think it was caused by the springs forcing the front conrol arms downward a little, which was causing the end links to bounce against the sway bar or the control arm; i forget which. The car feels like it understeers just a little when coming out of turns. I don't know if that's due to the removal of the sway bar or some other modification.

the spring goes on the inside.

I hope they upgraded the brakes too.

Bump!

I've never heard of that brand and searching this site shows that you're probably the first one to talk of it. Spread it out and post a picture of what you have and we can probably help you figure it out that way. There have been several different lift kit manufacturers but all lifts are similar in enough ways that it shouldn't be too hard.