baccaruda

I put an EA81T front sway bar in my Brat with no issues, so I don't think you'd need to worry about a difference between an auto car's sway bar and a manual car's sway bar.

depends on how well it's been and will be maintained... how long is a piece of string? Overall they're a good motor.. the EJ22 and the EA81 are the best Subaru motors ever according to many people. I lack enough experience with the EJ22 for that bandwagon..

Take pics of your EA81T coupe too!

Miles Fox has done this as well. I believe it bolts right in. The pitch stopper will need a small amount of imagination to coordinate.

those cornay joints have been costing me sleep for a couple of years now They're not widely seen because they're far more than the average CV-joint-using-car needs. Limited applications = limited demand = unlimited price.. tragically.

Kinko's or any other copy shop could make a full-size copy of that for about $5 max... or if you have a scanner and image editing software, a scan of that would be really cool to add to the USMB resources....

I'm not asking for any money :confused: (not that I'd turn it down )

Yeah, I was noticing that similarity... are we talking about a complete interchangeability with an EA82 pump if I ever need one for my T-coupe?

it's going to be a BIG hassle but the EA81T is a blast to drive. I have a turbo coupe and I can't WAIT to swap a 5sp-D/R into it this spring, the auto SUCKS. Make sure you have an '84 FSM or a good GOOD wiring diagram. Have also a digital camera and either an old cheap shop laptop or at least a printer so you can have your pics in front of you. I would strongly suggest that you give the engine a major servicing while out of the car, and I would also suggest that you keep the power steering.. Really, the best way to do this would be to drop the ENTIRE crossmember including engine, Xmember, and all front suspension, from the wagon. The EA81T has better front springs than the regular EA81s so you'll want those even if you get new front struts. And for all this work, you might consider putting in a 5sp-D/R instead of mating it to a 4. For all of the effort this will take, I personally would want to end up with the best possible result.

I would get myself a set of stockish "commuting" wheels and tires and see how the mileage went from there.

it's been mentioned before that crusty wheel bearings can add a LOT of rolling resistance.. just another thing to check. next time your gas tank gets low, pour in a bottle of Seafoam and top it off with a gallon of gas. Drive around for a while and let the higher concentration of SF give your carb a good ol'

*flings poo* just trying to fit in, guys bratman.. you can use whatever fuel tank you want. Whether you specifically asked if you SHOULD or not, Rick's advice concerning the folly of lowering the gas tank on a 4x4 rig is sound. And while I sometimes wince at his breathtakingly bluntly swung opinions, his advice (as well as the unsolicited advice of MANY others here) is often given for the intent of saving someone a lot of blood, sweat, and tears down the the line, or for the intent of preventing someone from making an unfortunate mistake, such as lowering the fuel tank on a lifted rig. I'd have to agree that such an idea IS messy - too much work for too little payoff. The same thing he said earlier. If it's easier for you to find the "right" fuel tank than it is for him, then I'm glad that you can find the right part for your swap instead of mickey-mousing the job. I don't know about either of you guys but I have better things to do than squabble over crap like this - like meeting Sabrina for a drink in a half-hour I suggest you each do something similar

Can someone give rough dimensions of one of these? I'm going to start casually keeping an eye out for other cars whose components might fit.

Rick, I gotta ask why you're even hanging onto those old 4-speeds anyway, you don't own a boat, do you?

ah cmon, i'm electrostupid too and I go to the Spo' branch once in a while.

http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf

you could always swap in 4WD rear trailing arms w/ disc brakes and leave the halfshafts out of the picture (4WD might be easier to find)... good luck!

Call Radar Electric; they have a shop in Bothell...

hahaha

Yegoshin, thanks for doing the work on that. So installing the resistor as you described will ground the hotwire to the gauge (to whatever degree allowed by the resistor) and sap off the appropriate amount of voltage to compensate? (the resistor is not installed inline in the hotwire, right?)

with the coolant system full, open the hood and let the car warm up. Wait for the steam. You may have to turn the throttle by hand to accelerate the engine - to increase coolant system pressure as well as pressure from heat. It should be easy to find the leak this way, probably something mentioned above.

yeah, do a search for headlight swap, keep an eye out for Monstaru's thread.

If you can get ahold of one of those snake cameras that sewer inspection companies use, that might be helpful. You might have to call a plumber.

OK thanks.