baccaruda

I admit that I know nothing of Rust Bullet but I would love to POR-15 the heck out of my cars. It supposedly uses moisture to "metabolize" and cure, so any moisture underneath it when applied will get sucked out. Plus it's flexible - in the brochure they have a pipe photographed after a POR-15 coating has been applied, and after the pipe has been twisted - the POR-15 is intact.

wait until you chop out the bottom of the airfilter box. That thing will rip your damn pants off!

hands off my secret project!

how about a bowling ball?

nice score. You are probably aware that the suspension and transmission/differential are desireable by themselves if you decide the car's not worth restoring.. also, that's not an "official" RX but it's close enough! good luck

yeah but no EFI = no flux capacitor

I've decided to go with this approach and actually use two of the plates, one atop and one abottom (?) of the control arm, to sandwich the rod end.. much better than a stud I think. I'll post pics when this happens.. this month!

Carbs are simpler (and so is skipping the EJ22 wiring harness) and Brian prefers troubleshooting carbs to EFI. Plus this is sorta-new territory and that in itself is fun.

how do you like that EJ in front of the RX setup? I've got the same in my lifted wagon but have yet to turn the key... (would you prefer 3.9 or?? or???)

i can't hear you (i think you may have suggested the rod end in the first place.. thanks B!)

So the wagon has a 4" BYB lift which means: 4" engine crossmember drop 3" trans crossmember/strut rod drop having the strut rods' tops mounted an inch higher means that the control arms are pulled up and back... which means that the control arm bushings are out of alignment in the same direction. Getting the whole front end put together was one of the hardest parts of this entire project... and as my wagon has an XT6 5-lug swap, I want those bushings to stay in good shape. I've decided that threading the forward ends of the strut rods and putting rod ends/heim joints on them is the solution to this problem. It will allow me to correct the length problem and angle problem at the same time. As there's about an inch between the top of the control arm (the stock strut rod mounting point) and the bottom of the CVJ boot, I am not keen on mounting the rod end in the stock location. I've cooked up this rough plan which mounts a stud for the rod end to a plate welded to the backside of the control arm. As I've not worked with rod ends before, I'd appreciate anyone's constructive criticism... I've got some 1/4" x 3" steel stock that I would probably use for the plate unless anyone suggests otherwise. I'd probably make some little vertical braces perpendicular to the plate and to the control arm too...

reseal the oil pump.

dude that's like 3 other threads right there...

there's a write-up on axle changing in the USRM...

it's not an R160 clutch-type LSD... get more info first!

the search engine doesn't acknowledge terms of 3 characters or less. Thanks for giving it a shot though. To minimize the drag, make sure your wheel bearings are in good shape and that your tires are properly inflated and in good shape as well. While you may see the driveshaft rotating while in 2WD (presumably by driving while hanging backwards out the driver's door looking under the car ) it is because the wheels and axles are rotating the diff and driveshaft "upstream" and it is freewheeling inside the output area of the trans. Also, as the 4WD driveline stuff is sort of working backwards when not engaged, it has a lot of smaller gears pushing larger gears, which would be a less efficient way to apply force, but that means that it's relatively low-torque when compared to applying the power from the transmission to "downstream." you could make the car 2WD by pulling the halfshafts, diff, and driveshaft, and putting a plugged CV boot over the tailshaft exit to contain gear oil, but you'd be shaving about 150lbs max.. the diff is 65lbs wet, the halfshafts are about 15lbs each max, and the driveshaft is about 15lbs too I think. I've only ever weighed the diff. If you really want to save gas, install a vacuum gauge so that you can tell when the engine's running more efficiently.

did you burn out the horn fuse at the same time you installed the stereo? did you rewire the speakers when installing the stereo? Subaru stock speakers are grounded funny and the installation of a non-Subaru head unit necessitates the rewiring of the speakers. That may have affected your electrical system somehow. To disengage your 4WD, you must drive in a straight line, usually in reverse. Try going back and forth with the button in the disengaged position; it should hopefully pop out. The 4WD system is not meant for use on dry terrain as the force each wheel is given is fixed - not responsive to turning when the wheels travel at different speeds. Also make sure all of your tires are inflated properly, have safe tread life remaining, and are the same kind - one manufacturer's version of the "right size" may be different from another manufacturer's version of same, and the 4WD system is sensitive to tire differences.

so would this resistor be suitable? Obviously 270 is close enough to 275 where stock gauges are concerned.. I don't know about the "1/2w 5%" mumbojumbo though...

he probably means the washers from the intake manifold bolts.

I'm going to be 5-speeding my EA81T coupe later this year; I'd like to photojournal it for the USMB.. will be after my wagon's alive though (getting closer!!) cause I want to also pull the coupe's engine and redo seals and such..

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

a valve job would be good as well (while the heads are off) or perhaps instead of the shaving...

well, it keeps the weight down I don't know if I'd trust them in a crash.. or the buggy

You could put aftermarket gauges in the actual original dash.. either get gauges small enough to fit around stuff, or if you're replacing stock oil/temp/etc sensors with aftermarket, you could chop out the originals and replace them..

Gary's right, take that sucker to the car wash and degrease the engine.. try not to squirt anything electrical (squirt the inside of the distributor with WD40 before you go, and take the can with you in case), then see where the leak is coming from. If you're inclined, replacing the oil pan gasket would be a great occasion for replacing the motor mounts as well..