baccaruda

can you post rates? Like cost each per quantity sold?

I've had 2 GL10 wagons and I loved the way they drove. If you really want to see a totally different car, chop out the bottom of the air filter box. Leave enough of a lip on the bottom to hold in the air filter. This bypasses the silencer in the fender, which also greatly restricts flow. It also decreases your gas mileage a little and increases the likelihood of getting pulled over.

nice, now let's see a picture of you driving it up that stack of logs!

yes, loosening the bleeder screws will help. If the piston hasn't been turned in much (ever? in your case) then the resistance probably isn't much to worry about. If the piston is rusty or if the boot around it is torn or cracking, then you might consider replacing the caliper. since brake fluid is also an excellent paint remover, make sure you suck a little out of the MC to accomodate for the fluid that will be displaced into the MC. Use a turkey baster, not a straw, for this

it won't do a whole lot of good, call it a "technical improvement." You can only mill them so much before it affects the alignments of mounting the intake manifold (bolts andports) so keep that in mind. best of luck! hovercrafts are cool is that a hydraulic lifter motor (better of the two, has stickers on the valve covers) or do you have to adjust the lifters?

i would recommend the same thing; find another impreza tranny, it's built for the larger engine in your car. You can modify the LSD to match your EJ transmission's gear ratio, there are directions in the USRM. good luck with your friend

I think I'm in love!

EXCELLENT link.

read up 4 posts...

that little brass/plastic UFO-thing? if that's what's leaking, it's not the fuel pump - the fuel pump is the size and shape of an 8oz. canned beverage - I don't know what that thing its but you shoud be able to get one from the dealer or from the junkyard. You might also consider putting new fuel line under there while you're at it..

they might be the "tamper proof" screws whose heads snap off when tightened to a certain point. You may have to drill them out.

I've done it with the turbo on and with the right front axle removed and I wouldn't do it that way again.

KYB GR2s are nice, and not too pricey. You can find them on ebay, usually for 2WD cars but those sit lower.

good call. similar to what i suggested; the squeal is highly suspect. The only other squeal I've ever heard from the front was in an electric fan that went bad... now THAT sounds horrible.

hmm. I'd wonder if one of the timing belt idlers has an intermittent seize, and if during that seize, it caused some leakage from the cam seal? pop the side timing belt covers and see if the belts are friction-glazed and see if there's oil leakage in there.

1/2" is definitely going to be more common. I will offer again here that I know good shops in Spokane for the necessary flywheel work. I know a place that can mill or drill the extra bolt pattern into the flywheels for $90, and a place to balance them for $30, and shipping is ~$17 round trip with US Postal Flat Rate.. this totals out to $137-$145 w/tax.. I would ask for a few $ as one shop is out of town and requires 2 extra half-hour drives to chase the flywheel out and back before work. If you can't find a place near you to do this at a comparable price I am happy to help.

yeah, the work is appreciated by all, i'm sure, but the photos don't enlarge as they need to.

don't forget, you're nuts!

OK, now that IS cool. nice find!

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I just stumbled over some Isuzu turbodiesel stuff this evening. It looks promising..

too small. Your best bet is some sort of 4cyl truck motor or some sort of VW motor. You will almost certainly have to have a lift kit installed in the car or there will be no hope for the hood clearance. A diesel motor is going to weigh over 400lbs, BTW. I am interested in putting a diesel in my Subaru as well. I know that a 1.9 VW TDI will fit inside the engine bay of an 85+ GL but I don't know about how the crank will center up to the transmission. I am also anticipating that I will need to beef up the crossmember as well as the front springs.

your best and easiest bet is to change the caliper. Change them both as they've been through identical conditions, and if one is sticking, the other one can't be much better.

Yes, I would also use a 1mm gasket or something to keep dust and crap out of the starter/bellhousing gap. good call.

the answer is yes! but I don't know if 14" wheels are compatible, they might present clearance issues. I *think* Legacies do have 25-spline axles. You can use the XT6 spindles... common practice is to keep the spindles and rotors matched, and the brakes (of course) normally match the spindles. My situation is as () follows: Got Legacy parts car. Kept Legacy spindles, rotors, axles from parts car. Performed 5-lug swap using junkyard XT6 control arms in front. (the ball joint is the same for XT6es and early Legacies) Didn't research interchangeability of brake calipers. Got the front calipers from the junkyard XT6. Bought brand new Legacy KYB GR2s for the front suspension (with WRX springs!) Found out that the XT6 caliper brackets don't fit the Legacy knuckles. New GR2s don't fit properly on the XT6 knuckles I dug up (thanks anyway Suberdave!) My choice was: ditch new struts and go with XT6 parts in the front end, or keep the new struts and find a way to retain the front E-brake (I'm trying to get the car back on the road, not add complications... rear e-brake is cool but = complication) I had to find out if ANY Legacy caliper brackets would accept XT6 calipers, and I lucked out. There is also a benefit in that the Legacy spindles supposedly have better bearings than the XT6es'. So now I can put the ^%$#@ wheels back on my wagon!