idosubaru

any good machine shop should be able to fix that like pat just mentioned. i'd look to go that route. you should be able to find a used one as well, it's not normally a wear item so i'd never even think to replace it with a new one. any idea how the damage happened? if it's due to impact i would probably replace rather than repair it as it could be out of balance or warped or something not worth messing with.

autozone has the coolant temp, not sure about the TPS though. make sure the wiring harness connector is good and the wiring to the TPS is good. also be sure the throttle plate isn't sticking. check the cables and pull the intake hose off the throttle body and see how dirty/clean the throttle plate is. they can easily stick, causing issues. if you still suspect the TPS, just pick up a used unit for a couple dollars from someone or a yard. they don't fail very often so they should be easy to pick up. this may have nothing to do with you...you have a different motor than an EA82 right? the FSM for the XT6...maybe the XT if it has the same TPS, is wrong. if you try to adjust it to spec's from the FSM it won't work.

be careful replacing the fusible link, you might just keep burning them out until you replace that alternator. i've bought some fusible link wire from NAPA (a few feet of it, enough to make a number or fusible links) and made my own on short notice. then i replaced them with the real thing. grab a used alternator from somewhere, i may have one lying around if you're interested PM or email me. see what a local rebuilding charges to rebuild yours. or if you're industrious pull it apart and see where you get yourself. replace the brushes and i know someone who has pulled them apart before. he said there's a solder joint that looks to break loose. your problem could be as easy as a solder joint. never rebuilt one myself so i can't tell you anymore. i seem to recall he just resoldered that joint before.

the XT6's have the vacuum hose routing pictured under the engine hood. RX aint like that? yeah fuel return is close to the other fuel lines by the fuel filter.

i don't mean to be rude but you just heard from people who have done it. i can show you errors in the haynes manuals and even a few in the FSM. and there are typically short cuts around some procedures anyway. start pullin that joker.

i'd install a used transmission from a yard....couple hundred. a local trans shop here in MD will install an AWD transmission that you supply (with new filter) for 150-200. you won't need the filter though because you have a manual. source a used trans for 300, pay somewhere to install it for 200 and you saved 1,500. i'd rather do that twice then pay all that money for a rebuild on a car with that many miles. that 1,500 could be better put towards tune ups, timing belts, radiators, pulleys, wheel bearings...etc. that's how i'd do it anyway. 2,000 is a decent deal and that's good of him to throw in that timing belt stuff as well. i'd replace the water pump and reseal the oil pump as well. at that mileage i think i'd honestly replace all the timing belt pulleys if you want to keep this thing awhile. or at the minimum ask him to check the pulley bearings for noise. when the bearings in the t-belt pulleys seize they wear the belt out in real short order and leave you stranded. thermostat should be replaced as well.

you need an alternator and a fusible link (little black box by the battery). you'll need the black link. it may be useable, but it's likely failed or degraded, i would replace it. sorry i blew it off earlier, the XT6 electrical system is a burden on the system and can cuase lights to dim when under load (a/c, radio, head lights, fog lights, blinkers...etc).

you have to remove the ball joint bolt to remove the drive axles? that sucks.

first note - lots of people on here like pulling the engine but the head gaskets on the EA82 can be easily done in a day without pulling the motor and require no special tools. i have also pulled a couple motors, but i find doing it in the engine much quicker if i want the car back on the road as soon as possible. it is super duper convenient to pull it though if you have the space and equipment. it is easier but you have lots of hoses, throttle cables, wires, sensors, and the entire pulling and installing process to deal with. but it is the only way to get to the rear main seal and an excellent way to get to the oil pan. doing the oil pan under the car sucks the big one. push the a/c compressor to the side gently and it won't leak out. leave it contorted for as short of a time as possible. when pulling this motor...if it's an automatic it might be nice if it's your first time with an automatic to pull the motor and trans at the same time (they'll both come out together, still attached). the 4EAT auto trans on the XT6 can be tricky and i personally know of a few people that have not gotten it right and cracked the internal transmission oil pump. the problem is that the torque converter slides in easily but the last 1/2" or so is very tricky to get it to seat properly. if you just pull the engine, be sure to seat the transmission perfectly and don't let it come back out until you bolt the motor up. it's not hard at all if you just want to pull the motor, just make sure you seat the torque converter all the way...it's hard to tell if it goes that last 1/2 inch or so....it usually takes a few minutes, which seem like a half an hour because you're just turning the thing around and around and it doesn't seem to go anywhere then finally it drops right in. if you dont and try to bolt the engine to the trans, it'll crack the pump or shaft inside....then it gets ungly from there. also - source the "ring seal" as the dealer calls it and the torque converter seal. i would replace both of these with the motor out. grease the ring seal really good and be sure the old one comes out and is not left down in the trans opening. source these ahead of time, they likely won't have the ring seal in stock. old ones can be really brittle or bent. i've seen them crack right in half the minute you touch them and also pulled them off all twisted and gnarled. i'd have an extra one handy.

that's a good shop to do that for you. most will say they can't charge without checking for leaks first. that's what they tell all my friends anyway, i don't let anyone touch mine.

it's up to you if it's reasonable. if paying extra for a loaner and getting it done quick is fine by you then go get it done and be done with it. i think it's kind of high, i'd look for around 150. if you were in maryland i'd do it for 150. i would expect more miles out of a new axle, but if it's by the exhaust like someone mentioned then that will degrade the rubber quicker like they said. on another note, if you can put up with the smell and noise there is no reason you need to worry about taking them on the trip, they will not fail. i've driven over 50,000 miles on boot torn, clicking CV's. just stay out of hard core off roading and sand. my current ride has 220,000 miles and the rear CV has been cracked for like 100,000 miles. though the rears articulate much less than the fronts. i was in georgia and was tearing it up in some off road sand and my front joint that had been broken forever started sounding terrible from all the sand getting in there. still drove the 800 miles home to maryland without a problem...the cv's were even clicking while driving straight at this point. that's generally my personal rule of thumb, change them when it's convenient (like the tire is already coming off for somethign else) or when they start making noise while driving straight (which will take a loooong time) in that case, i changed the axle as soon as i got home. i've driven butt loads of miles on cv axles and the only one i ever had break was BRAND NEW!!! i write all of this because before i knew anything about cars i used to freak out about CV joints because they don't sound good when they start clicking and it is related to the wheel sort of so i didn't know enough about it to keep from getting freaked out and having it fixed right away. now that i know, i like others to be informed so they don't worry as much as i did.

i'll admit it's giving me a little jumpstart before as well.

that's a rip. most a/c failures i see are due to leaky schrader valves that cost less than a dollar each. look at your a/c compressor and check out the two fittings with schrader valves in them. just look at the valves and it wouldn't surprise me if you see wetness or even bubbling if the system still has any pressure. seen this plenty of times, the valve stem cores have orings at the base that degrade over time and leak. same thing in a tire valve stem but they typically get changed out with new tires. it does take a special tool to replace them without releasing the refrigerant (though the tool isn't that expensive). or a 2 dollar bike valve tool will work as well. in any event if it's R134a you should just charge it yourself. a can of refrigerant is like 10 dollars. but i'd check those two valves for leakage before charging so you can tell where the leak is for future reference. unless your compressor has failed i would be your a/c system is fine though i can't tell without looking at it. there are diagnostic tests they can do including the leak test they described, but i find that test to be questionable at best. a sniffer is much better as that stuff will definitely show up wherever you put it in the system (which is through a valve that could be the problem to begin with). a sniffer is the way to go and i think they should check for free as if they can tell you the problem and be honest about it they would have had a customer. lots of people drop that 800 everytime though without questioning so they get in the habit of just charging that. i can't tell you how many of those $800 dollar jobs end up being 50 cent schrader valves, but i bet it's a large percentage. you can also buy a gauge from the auto parts store for a 10 or 20 dollars and check how much charge is in their right now. (the gauge is like color coded with directions and all so you know how much should be in there). they work. this will tell you if your system is charged right. if it's not then i would suspect your compressor. but i bet you're just low on refrigerant (happens all the time). and at 10 dollars a can, that will probably last awhile even if you have a slow leak. there's another a/c thread right now as we speak, i just replied to both. check it out as well, may be some good info in there. i'm by no means an expert but never had problems recharging or fixing miine. EDIT - i see the last poster commented on the leak testing too. sniffers are the way to go, that leak test stuff isn't nearly as good. but with a little tiny bit of leg work i bet you can get away with neither one. i think you should just try to charge it with a can and see what happens. but that's just me.

yes you can. i do it. i have a 97 OBS too and though i've never touched the AC i did notice it appeared to be R134 fittings which will be much easier for you to deal with. most likely if this just started you should have a decent charge on the system with minimal if any air entering the lines. so i would just charge. before you go messing with it though, pull the caps off (if there are any) and have a look at the high and low pressure ports. inside you'll see a schrader valve (just like in a tire valve stem), these are the most common leakage points as they have a very tiny oring at their base. a leak will be noticeable by wetness and possibly even bubbling if any oil comes out, typically it's really easy to notice which is why i say to check. even if you don't want to fix it, it would be good to know for future reference as the valves cost like 50 cents and the valve removal tool costs like 2 dollars. problem is you have to discharge the system to replace them...unless you buy a slightly more expensive a/c tool that actually allows you to pull the valve and replace it with a new one without discharging the system. have to look them up, forget what they are called, but it's a smooth little device. of course a shop should do this for you for like 10 bucks since they have the tool and valves sitting around, but they won't. they'll say it needs leak tested, valves replaced, vacuum pulled, recharged and 250 dollars later your a/c works when i would have just replaced the valve for 50 cents. sometimes you can tighten them up to slow the leak (needle nose pliers will even work if yo'ure careful), but that's hit or miss usually the oring is too degraded at that point. soap on the valves will help show a leak if you don't see anything. would be best to buy a hose with a gauge on it if you don't have a manifold set of gauges for doing it "the right way". you don't need these, but they are nice, it's another thing to learn figuring them out. i'm not going to cover that now. anyway, you can get a small hose with a gauge on it and it might even come with directions. get a decent hose with metal fittings and stuff, not the cheap plastic ones as they break and suck. the right hose can serve two purposes - you can attach it to your A/C and close the valve so you just get a pressure reading. and you can attach a can of refrigerant to it and open the valve to charge your system. that's the kind of hose you want. some of the cheap hoses have no valve so when you're done charging the refrigerant just expels into the air. here's the bottom line..finally you say, attach the can to the hose, hose to the car and charge away. it's really that simple. keep it charged so no air gets in the system. air and humidity (water) will cause corrossion internally and eventually your compressor will seize. you can make it complicated by using a vacuum pulley and gauges and all that jazz...depends what you want to do, that's actually easy as well if you have the right tools.

do you have a trip computer and is it working right? on an XT6 trip computer any time power is disconnected the trip computer begins counting down from some random number that you didn't enter and when it reaches zero it will go off. but it should only do it once unless power is disconnected again. i suppose a wiring problem or issue with the computer could cause it to do it more often.

yep, done it before too. (on the XT6 ER27 as well)

best to helicoil them, i just did a bunch on my XT6. pretty straight forward and easy with a drill and helicoil kit as the things are easy to get to, though the exhaust manifold will have to come off as the tap for the helicoil is larger than the holes in the exhaust flange. i've seen some people's work where they will cover up their exhaust manifold with lots of sealant and bolt it back up as best as they can with like half the nuts/studs loose or not existant. i wouldn't do it that way, but seen others that have.

if your lug nuts are covered by a cap, be sure one didn't shear off and is rattling under the cap.

thanks! makes me feel better about the stuff curing. i might stick something to a spare cam carrier and then pull it apart just to check it out.

anyone know what the deal is with this stuff? it's the suggested sealant to use on the cam carrier housings of XT6's and EA82's. i've noticed this stuff doesn't really seem to *dry* like other sealants. like you'll put it on and a few days later the little that seeps out is still wet i think. looked like it anyway. i always use the associated activator spray with it as well. just curious what the deal is behind this stuff. i've never taken any apart yet that i've put this stuff on (guess that's a good sign so far!), so i'm curious if it dries in the normal sense? i wonder if "anaerobic* means it doesn't dry with air or something.

i'd check that clutch cable too. i just learned how to drive without a clutch cable and it sounds simliiar to what yo'ure talking about, very tricky to get into gear. if the clutch cable isn't working right you might only get into gear when the engine/trans mesh together perfectly, which is a tricky thing to do and takes a little practice. go over that clutch cable before you drop the trans/motor.

sometimes FWD and AWD trans use the same TCU (transmission computer), so you may not need that. you should be able to find an AWD trans for it if you look around though. keep trying, replacing with a stock trans would be nice. whatever you get, install an aftermarket trans cooler when you install the next trans.

did you get 'em out?

a new alternator is nice if you can afford it. warranty and new parts so you don't have problems again. if you can't pull that - i probably have a used one i can sell you (but i'm out of state at the moment). email me if you want a used one. there are others like tapper who may have some as well. also - if you find a local rebuild shop they may be able to rebuild it for you cheaper than buying a new one.

here are some ways to get this bolt out. all of these techniques have worked for me on intake manifold bolts and are very easy (easier with two people) : this is the easiest way to get one out, but requires that the bolt did come out a little bit (they often do). use a huge pry bar (i think mine is 8 foot). has a perfect V shape at the end for fitting under the head of the bolt. if you don't have one, use something else long with leverage that you can get under it (even a claw hammer will work okay). tyipcally you'll need some 2x4 pieces or somethign else under the pry bar/hammer to get the right angle for applying pressure. get it under the head of the bolt (that's why you need it to come out a little bit) and pry up on it while simutaneously unscrewing the bolt. you're not trying to pry it out (YET!! ha ha), just putting pressure on it. dont' try to break anything, but don't go easy either, put some stank into it. don't know why, but it works. easier with two people, one to apply upward pressure and you to turn it out. i've had them come right out like this, it's a wonderful feeling to see that thing come right out. i've always at least gotten the bolt to turn. so long as you can turn it, tighten the bolt and then untighten it...do this multiple times. if it comes out at all, spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (not WD40, the others work better) down the hole between motions of screwing/unscrewing. it may work itself out. one time on a very old soob (not mine) i actually had to cut the freaking thing off between the intake and head (seriously annoying) because the head broke off and the rest of the bolt was left in the manifold. doubt you'll have that problem, every bolt on that car was rusted. every single radiator fan bolt sheared off too! got to the point where i was moving really fast because every bolt took 1 turn to get off, snap! good luck,