idosubaru

Nice hit. Call a local radiator shop or diesel mechanic place that makes air/fuel lines and they may know who does it? Some NAPA stores support commercial trucks and make hoses for fuel and air maybe they could do it or know who does? if you want to avoid downtime I’ll ship you one to have rebuilt and ready to go. Or maybe I’ll just ship it to GDs place. Haha.

They won’t come out from the top without removing hoses, and I can’t recall if I haven’t tried from the bottom or tried many years ago and forgot, but I’ve never gotten them out without pulling hoses and my assumption (maybe incorrect) is there isn’t space/angle from underneath. good news there are direct fit H6 fans and if you can do it yourself it’s so easy I wouldn’t worry about an aftermarket AC hose. Are fans H6 specific and if so are those aftermarkets definitely configured for h6’s and not just H4 fans listed for an H6?

Good job figuring that out! For no good reasons except they’re probably not expensive and aftermarket AC lines probably don’t have a lot of longevity reviews - I’d get new OEM AC line and a used fan, (unless new are reasonably priced) Doubt you want them but I can ship you a used hose if you want, and fan maybe. Those H6 have variable speed fans and maybe the ECU is even involved? Id stay OEM unless someone who knows that specific system recommends otherwise. Probably not that complicated I just avoid electrical work unless I’m really compelled!

Is the AT light flashing while driving? That’s a diffent issue than flashing 16 times at first start up which is what we are all assuming. Maybe the car had a different unmatching transmission installed? Why did the car sit before you bought it? I bet the purchasing story who, where, how, how much would shed some light on this car having something happen to it.

By “AT light flashing” do you mean 16 times after first start up or flashing while driving ? You need to read the codes from the TCU, there is suspicious data here. you can search for the odd routine you need to do in order for the AT light to flash the trouble code(s) for you or ask a shop to do it. look at the transmission pan - is it dented ? AT light flashing and binding = Duty C Binding with no light = clutches what you’re describing is neither of those so something else is wrong.

Very cool. With more time Id love to learn how boards are designed and what various circuits do, powerful and nifty stuff. Good job, thanks for figuring that out and spreading the word.

The drum/hub inside the rear transmission housing can shear off, that's the only failure I've seen. The binding would be felt by the entire driveline - transmission 4WD components, driveshafts, differentials, axles. You can disconnect the rear half of the driveshaft and just run it in FWD. Either indefinitely or until you can get it fixed.

How did you figure that out Dave? How did you know which one would change that...? So you're literally just "scratching" that line (trace) between 133 and 183? That's it?

You're installing a different gasket. There is probably a chance of the newer gasket leaking by 150,000 miles but they hold up much better than the 09 gaskets. the newer 2010/2011 EJ25's that came with updated gaskets have a presumably much lower rate of failure and it's different - they push exhaust gases into the coolant and overheat, unlike your 2009 which will never do that - it'll just leak externally. The statistics are really low - but you probably have more chance of issues repairing it than if you don't. The repaired gaskets have a small chance of stranding you and introduce a (tiny) potential for user error, the current gaskets do not have any additional risk by leaving them. For that reason there is zero gain in doing the gaskets preventatively in most situations. If they're known original gaskets I'd leave them be unless the engine is coming out for something else or you're going in for massive surgery that takes 2 years to recover from. Otherwise the headgaskets start leaking slooooooowllllllllly and can not cause any issue or failures at all, it's impossible. At first the metal around the headgaskets just gets slightly discolored, like a mole on your skin. It just looks like grease at first, you can't even tell it's oil by looking at it. Then it gets bigger and bigger and a few months later it forms it's first drip. Then the drips will get worse over time - in any event - you have months from the first sign of wetness on the block/head to plan a repair like you're doing now. It's not like they "blow" in the traditional sense of overheating, oil/coolant mixing, or blowing coolant out the exhaust pipe and could strand you - none of that is a possibility with this engine.

Buy the pulleys from Subaru or AISIN. Aftermarkets have higher failure rates, not what you want on an interference engine of the 2004 forester. The tensioner pulley is the least likely part to fail, that's the only part of the timing system I haven't seen fail. If you buy aftermarket I wouldn't use any included bolts, use the OEM bolts original to the car. I've seen aftermarket bolts shear off - maybe it was an installation issue (i didn't do them, but rather bought them with broken bolt/thrown belt/bent valves this way), but it's only been aftermarket "new" bolts that i've seen. The new style tensioner (in your Forester) is less reliable than the old style tensioners (in your EJ20's), the tensioning mechanism gets weak and the tensioner will KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK loudly. Compressed slowly and reused properly this probably is far less of an issue, but the seals on the tensioning piston commonly leak and it's more common on the new style tensioners than the old that you're used to with the EJ20. years ago it wasn't uncommon for people who knew this to swap newer Subaru's to the old style tensioner. Due to age and aftermarket questionable quality it's not as conducive as it once was.

same. both require removing the rear extension housing of the trans. it doesn't require removing the transmission so it's not an awful job but does require working under the vehicle, looking up, and is sizable in scope for a new person.

1. Repair the EGR valve code first - that's easy. Replace with OEM, used, or remove and clean it and verify associated lines or it's operation. There's a small in line quarter sized filter on the passengers side of the engine bay - replace that as well. 2. AT light blinking - replace the Duty C solenoid. You could test it just to make sure it's not a broken wire from rodents chewing it if that's possible depending where/how it was sitting.

I’ve replaced those before. This is leaking below that but I’ll replace this one as well.

What he said. Can you look and see if they’ve been replaced before?

Perfect, thanks a bunch.

Great thanks! I hadn’t pulled one of those yet so I was uncertain in a few ways. I’ll open the FSM and get the gasket. Engine was recently out and cleaned and that’s from not many miles so it’s probably more significant than the pic suggests.

GD says not to do the block, or not without a very dedicated process that most places aren't capable of. I wont' try to regurgitate his mechanical reasoning but he's well versed on the technical attributes and failure modes of subaru block/head/mechanical/machining... he's described it elsewhere on this forum if one was interested.

probably - used car purchasing is a gamble. you get much better deals assessing the seller rather than the vehicle. find out exactly why they're selling and look for a real, unfabricated, unforced reason for sale and you'll end up with a much better deal. sounds like previous owners limped that thing around. no telling what it's been through and what it'll take to keep it running with all the orange you're describing coming out of the coolant. hopefully you'll work out the kinks and have something reasonable to work with when you're done, good luck.

Yep yours is like the rest. Super easy. The factory service manuals are free online. Get one and find the one wire you need and you’re done. Harness is easily accessed rear passengers side or engine bay. Or right above your gas pedal inside the cabin.

headgaskets - they can come and go intermittently so they're hard to discern immediately from other causes. knocking: 1. piston slap - look it up 2. timing tensioner knocking 3. rod knock

Baaahhaaaahaa a reasonable response to some of my past questions too

Bump

Commercials aren’t free, filter costs go up, people don’t buy them. consumer mechanical inclination is plummeting and couldn’t care less about parts. data doesn’t sell either.

A MAF is a hot wire anemometer with extremely thin wires protruding into the airflow. They can get dirt on them and oil from reusable filters can aid dirt sticking to them.

Payload capacity, or performance, could be a fraction of what new factory springs and struts are, does anyone know if that photo a normal amount of sagging?