idosubaru

GD has posted what he uses in his shop and probably has the most quantified reasons for doing so. Id start there. Are you new maybe, If you know how to search, look him up. lmdew also just posted some ATF info for the same trans within the past couple months as well. my internet connectivity is terrible or I’d do it now and give you some links. Will it see any summer temps, weight or steep grades that warrant an ATF cooler? You could also add a filter. Subaru added a filter starting the next year - 1999. Those 98 4EATs do great, robust machines. Front diffs are almost as prone to issues as the trans, I feel like I’ve actually seen more. Rear diff failures are nearly unheard of.

Look In or get an owners manual for weights and capacities. Those trans are pretty robust and don’t have many issues vast majority of gains will be from new fluid not type of fluid. someone just posted excellent results with their ATF change / find that thread.

OEM PCV Are you condemning the converter on P0420 code only and bad gas mileage? That might not be what’s happening. Test the converter flow first? plugs, wires, adjust valves if you can. a leak down or compression test may help decide on engine condition.

No, don’t spend $5k on stuff that won’t fix the gas mileage concerns - diagnose/ fix bad gas mileage first. If that’s what matters - focus on that. $5k in repairs is absurd. get a new short block...lol If it’s rust free then it’s likely financially worth keeping - but there are many other important variables of choice. In 03, the rear O2 doesn’t impact gas mileage, it simply triggers the P0420 that’s it. I’ve ignored my 2002 P0420 for 150,000 miles and have had the same performance and good gas mileage for a decade. That is common, not rare fix the most important things first - P0420 should come right after buffing the underside of your trunk.

oh yeah, i get that, i've upgraded tons of mine to LED, you didn't say you were doing it for efficiency but better lighting. i get that you can get more bright with less/same watts though. that bulb you picked is going to be awesome, i've got a few like 20 watters or something and they'll make me see red and blue if i stare at them too long. very sharp.

I put LEDs in our basement and what is there to say - it’s a light bulb and it makes light! They didn’t make a dramatic improvement alone, for my space I would need more/bigger lights to fill out the area for more consistent/detailed work but my basement is storage so I don’t need that. Can dial in the color and brightness you want. I put a motion detecting one above the storage/freezer area so no switch is needed. in the garage/shop I converted/replaced all the 4’ fluorescents to LEDs and they’re awesome: https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dual-End-Fluorescent-Replacement-Warehouse/dp/B00SSNPI80/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538883203&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fluorescent+led+replacement&psc=1 Maybe with incadescents it doesn’t matter but They’re not impacted by ambient temps like fluorescents are.

I’ve done gobs of CV boots - I just spray the outer joints with cleaner but it’s not fast and I’m not a big fan of sitting in that chemical fog. Am I missing any options? i doubt I’ll get a parts washer and disassembling them wasn’t easy the two times I tried.

Light fixture is bad. That sliding location of the switch isn’t working. Repair contacts as he said or get another one.

+1 this is what i'd do and have done lots of times. might as well do it the easiest way possible, not load it on a trailer, and pull it

5 miles is so short - just pull it with a tow strap/another car. I've done it a zillion times. Do it during really low traffic times - super early or late at night. Do you know that you can just remove the 4 12mm driveshaft bolts and then tow it all day long with no issues? If you must tow it with two rear wheels down - start the engine and put the FWD fuse in and tow it while the engine is idling and in FWD. I've never heard anyone else talk about that or suggest it so I don't know the full repercussions of that move, but I've done it without issues for up to 100 miles. As to your original question - towing, presumably with two wheels down without mitigating anything - it will probably wear the MPT components but whether it's enough to damage it is probably anyone's guess. it'll survive that short of a tow in the short term, but would manifest issues "later", whatever that might mean.

You can bleed with that method. I'm not sure what dictates a successful/unsuccessful bleed and making sure no air gets past the bleeder/caliper connection but i've done it a lot without issue somehow.

I would guess that's not nearly enough for a completely aerated 4 line system. I would guess that's 20 ounches and I'm sure i've used 50-60 or more before. I've had some that just seemed to take forever..surely i had bled enough, then I asked what was wrong just like you're doing now, and simply needed to bleed it more and all was good. fairtax and numbchux say they pull the MC forward after unbolting it or remove it to bench bleed in the car or off if there's air in it.

Were the symptoms of the first failed alternator identical to what you have now or you're uncertain? Aftermarket is a good point, there are reports of H6 aftermarket alternator issues. if you can get a used OEM one, try it out.

Did you bleed A LOT? when the systems are opened that far up the line they can take 2-3 large bottles to bleed - that's probably on ABS systems but nonetheless same thing still applies, once the entire system is opened up it can take a looong time to bleed it all out. I can just replace one caliper or a hose close to a caliper and in those cases air is still close to the bleeder screw and easy to bleed - i've even opened and just bled one corner before if you can swap it quick enough and keep it from draining. it's more difficult when you introduce air that far up, have a leak further up, or replace an MC - it's going to take a lot more than a routine bleed to get it all out. bleed, bleed more than you think necessary and then probably some more. Also - look for leaks above the gas tank...not sure how, but that's where they leak and cause pedal issues. they leak just enough to cause issues but aren't yet spurting/spraying gobs of fluid. there is no discernible "holes" or "leaks" - the metal lines get all flakey with multiple layers of scaled rust - the fluid just gradually pushes out of that without having a hole or significant leak. so it's just enough to loose pressure but not enough to leak enough that it looses fluid fast or drips on the ground. Anyway - i've seen it before, if it's got any rust try to check above the gas tank if possible.

Hopefully someone will chime in but I would consult the FSM otherwise, it should have a diagnostic tree to check that somewhere.

Correct - 2003 forester factory installed gaskets typically leak coolant externally, sometimes oil. Which usually suggests, but doesn't confirm, the engine wasn't significantly overheated prior to the repair like EJ25D's frequently have happen and then subsequently end up loosing rod bearings sometime later. Starts as a very slow wetness, seeping, takes a while before it starts to drip...someone changing the oil sees it before it ever exhibits symptoms. Replaced headgaskets can vary in failure modes and will rarely push exhaust gases into the coolant like the EJ25D and give random/intermittent bubbling/overheating. Given the circumstances it doesn't seem like it's being moved for those reasons though.

My first question is why is the vehicle on the market? I want to try to avoid cars on the market due to symptoms (noise, intermittent symptoms or annoyances, chasing repairs, overheating, etc). I like buying from people who are moving, just had a child, retired, or got a company car (like really did, not just using it as an excuse for selling)...clear reasons to get rid of a car. If it's a private sale you can get a better feel for that. If it's a lot car then you have to do some more digging and interpretation. I prefer buying from owners, they tend to be honest, fair, or at least east to read whether you should walk or continue discussing. That philosophy works better for $5,000 - $10,000 cars but still not impossible on older cars too. I like the Michellins - it suggests a previous owner was willing to purchase quality equipment and they're not just putting something cheap on it with the intent of flipping it for a buck. PA is terrible for rust - i'm 7 miles from the line. You must verify top brand headgaskets were used (Subaru or Fel Pro) and ideally the heads were resurfaced, but many places don't do that and if properly done there isn't massive evidence it matters much. Who did the headgasket repair? Headgaskets, while not hard, are more akin to open heart surgery and job quality matters more than other jobs. You also need new timing pulleys - those are more likely to fail than the belt. Particularly the lower toothed idler. They're so easy to replace - I can do it in an hour, I would just plan on doing it myself to make sure it's done right - new complete AISIN or Subaru timing belt and 3 pulleys and the tensioner.

good job! load dependent running hot is often radiator. i've seen them overheat during daytime driving but not nighttime for instance, or only when going up hills.

Buy this - this is a rare cheap alternator - $65 from Subaru, usually they're $300-$500 - https://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/p/Subaru__/ALTERNATOR-ASSEMBLY/49505319/23700AA34ARA.html Don't buy aftermarket garbage no matter how slick "new" "lifetime warrantied" it looks or how easy they are to get. go to subaru and buy it. call them right now and ask them to order it in so it's there on payday. they're super easy to replace - i could probably do it in 5 minutes if i rushed. and I could easily do it with my eyes closed.

+1 that remote starter and associated wiring is going to be a huge question mark. i'd get that thing out of there too. if you know the model number - can you google, email, or find the company and get their installation guides so you know what components/where they tap in and see what removal would look like? if you do - post a picture of it here....if youre allowed to with one post? sometimes you're limited in priviledges until you have so many posts. Hey here it is, good job getting that first post up after talking to me.

oh yeah that might be trickier. if you're going to replace it, and it's just dangling all wonky would it hurt to try a repair of some sort? be good to find out why they stress and crack there - door seems likely? anyway to remedy that? or passengers or seat belt....?

Great, thanks. Got it, I’ve seen that with fords, land rovers and Isuzu’s where the trans fails all the time and used ones are insane expensive for something that frequently fails.

This seems to work sometimes and not others. I always use Subaru belts thigh. Install all pulleys including the toothed sprocket, except the lower passengers side pulley. Install the pulleys without fully tensioning the bolts so the pulleys have a little play. Install belt and try to push it onto the toothed pulley last. It won’t go on. Place a socket on each cam sprocket, while maintaining proper engagement and tension between the belt and cam sprocket teeth so it doesn’t slip, and gently turn each sprocket in the direction that provides Slack to the toothed pulley area (CCW for PS and CW for DS). Then get the belt to just barely engage over the teeth barely on and right and walk it back fully a millimeter at a time.

+1 avoid those. aftermarket alternators, starters, fuel pumps have a high failure rate. not worth the risk. they are no better than just ordering a used one from a junk yard, just get two used ones before you get an aftermarket. "new" "lifetime warranty" is all meaningless, don't let it fool you. this repeated draw down is reducing the life of your current battery.

well, there you go. run some better oil and frequent change intervals for the new one. you can swap any gear ratio you want if you also swap the rear diff to match and don't mind gearing/speedo being a little off. google 'subaru final drive ratio" or something like that and there is some limited information out there. alternately go to a subaru parts website and look up the rear diff or center diff for your vehicle and click the "applications" tab to see what other vehicles it applies to. some of the subaru parts sites are really slick for this. plug around with that and you can figure it out.