idosubaru

In the same way - terribly cracked/sun scorched/old tires can cause the ABS to blip unecessarily usually in poor traction conditions. i've seen nearly full tread tires do it that were baked in the florida sun.

Great, thanks beast, I'm helping a friend buy one and my relatives/friends have a few - I hadn't seen any fail yet but boy do they look really similar!

The belt set up of the FB engines looks very similar to the EZ engines which frequently have bearing failures - do the FB engines also have that issue?

i'd entertain thoughts of addressing this without pulling the cam carrier... a small tack of tig welding? A bead of sealant...The Right Stuff?... along that bottom edge? google it - someone has gotten creative with broken ears and tabs before even if it's not an EA engine...?

Hey mike! The tone ring is the ring that has "teeth" that the wheel speed sensor are "looking at". on a 95 the teeth are part of the hub (newer models they're intergrated into the axles). If you find the wheel speed sensor - the only wire going to the knuckle - the tone ring will be just millimeters away from the sensor tip, which may or may not be visible without removing the wheel. 1. clean the wheel speed sensors - they get dirty or debris on them and can get flaky. there's one at each wheel poking through the rear of the dust plate/knuckle. Have to pull the 2. look for warn/damaged ABS wheel speed sensors. or replace the faulty one - there is a way to do a self-test of the ABS system where the light blinks the code and tells you which sensor is bad...if it's registering as bad, yours sounds intermittent. 3. some 90's models had flaky ABS pump relays that would cause noises even when the car was off - doesn't sound like your issue but worth noting as you trouble shoot.

i wouldn't focus too much on that "carbon build up" comment unless you can find that thread and see how likely it seems. it's third party circumstantial evidence, I was just throwing it out there, maybe you can search for that thread. seems like it was in the last 2 years and was an 01-04 H6 in NY i think.

this is really easy - just go fix it without replacing the stud. i've done it dozens of times. I've hit plenty of studs with a die and the nut with a tap and they're good to go - clean, smooth engaging and perfectly fine. then there's no need for any work/time/cost or pounding wheel bearings getting the stud out. there's quite literally zero risk in doing so, regardless of any backseat commentary otherwise. i would seriously just consider doing this and moving on. you can even do it yourself - they easily drive thousands of miles of nominal driving with 3 out of 5 lug nuts in place - you'll be fine driving home carefully with 4. I wouldn't worry about assigning blame, do it yourself or find a shop that will do it by hand every time. there are endless finger pointings at techs and lug studs, and a busy, cheap shop with demanding, penny pinching, and hurried customers isn't the ideal place for deliberate/high quality - so that is the obvious and real possibility. that being said i do think it's also a tough area in general to assign blame. 1. if i hit a lug stud with with my 1,000 ft/lb gun and high flow fittings i highly doubt they would break so i doubt the tech sheared a perfect, like-new stud and nut. 2. at 190,000 miles, by the subaru maintenance schedule of tire rotations, there have been 1,000 lug nut removal/installs performed on that vehicle. that's a lot of iterations for a slight compromise or forgotten incident. 3. i realize you didn't notice any issues with the last install - but the tires were probably changed a few times using air tools. these commonly damage threads, even if lightly and unnoticeably. this can also happen with hand tools but to a lesser degree. I'm surprised how common it is. damage happens when the lug studs are removed. As it's spinning off really fast - there is a fraction of a second where the nut isn't fully engaged, nor fully disengaged from the threads when it's zipping off with an air gun. during this moment the threads are making intermittent contact at high speed, which is damaging if there's any off-axis forces being applied - unsteady hand, heavy gun, air hose pulling on it, and the changing loads of the "nut on the stud" verses "nut not on the stud"...etc. this is very common. usually it's just minor imperfections and unnoticeable and the nut/studs are forgiving. 4. lug studs can get tight over time. maybe it was a bad winter, maybe they were loaded with salt, maybe the car was parked over grass for an extended period of time... i'm not saying any of this is the case - i'm really just saying - even if the tech is 100% responsible i think it's hard to pin something as common as sheared lug studs on a tech. even if you're right - i wouldn't necessarily fault a shop who is constantly barraged with reports of how their work has caused the demise of someones car.

always reboot axles. Replacements have tons of issues. - the companies are just building them cheaply and you’re paying the difference with your time, break downs, return hassles. You’re helping companies make money, not helping yourself by buying cheap axles.

OEM EJ front struts mounts rarely fail. So if you find yourself stuck thinking you wouldn’t need to replace it but the bearing isn’t good - you’ve got an option. If it’s not rusted terribly and the bushing/mount material is good and only the bearing is an issue, you can regrease the bearings. Today I did one on a 190,000 mile Outback strut that’s sat outside for a while and the bearing was seized, then hard to turn, very lumpy and catching. Doing the following, it was perfectly usable by my standards when I was done. For practice and to get a feel for what you’ll be doing you can use a tiny pick or spludger device to pry the edge of the face seal up on the under side of the mount where the face seal meets the inner race. I’m not all that delicate with these, the OEM ones I’ve done the seal materials are highly pliable and resilient. Use a needle fitting for a grease gun and insert it very roughly about 30 degrees incline from the seal face and between the inner race and the face seal. It’ll take a few times to get it to actually go down into the bearings. It often “stops” right away and you can’t push it in. If it stops - Pull back. Slide down the race a little or pull it all the way and rotate and try again. Eventually the needle slides in a solid 1/2” and notably goes down into the bearing. Before you pump grease press down where the needle enters and “seal” that entrance up with a finger so less grease just comes back out of that area when you squeeze the grease gun Give it some grease and pull the fitting out. rotate the bearings a few/couple dozen times by hand. Wipe up any external grease. repeat those steps 2-7 times depending how much grease you put in. Smaller shots of grease multiple times would be ideal and best. dont overfill the bearing or pump quickly or the face seal can be push out If that happens just press the face seal back down by hand after a few times the bearing will feel much better. Every other bearing I’ve done (timing pulleys and others) feels indistinguishable from new after doing this - tight and smooth just like a new bearing , strut mounts seem to retain a little less smooth feeling but still feel much better, turn freely, feels greased, and good enough for me for a strut mount. Ive done this to timing pulleys?and they do just fine even after 50,000 miles of high rotational speeds and localized temps. And I’ve done it to older subarus with unavailable pulleys and unavailable bearings where the face seal cracks and gets more damaged than normal due to age/design - not ideal but options are limited - and still no problems 10’s of thousands of miles on probably 10-20 bearings like that. So it seems like this should be a reasonable option in some cases for EJ strut mounts

All the 97s I’ve seen have the newer style tensioner. yes they slap and sound an awful lot like rod knock. 97 EJ22 is an interference engine and usually bends a majority of valves if the belt breaks or, more commonly, the pulleys fail. If you didn’t install a complete tikknf belt kit and it’s not rod knock then ideally it should get a Subaru or Aisin timing kit Where did you get the engine? Reputable source or cheapest available? If you did an EA to EJ swap you can diagnose the tesnioner in minutes. Pull the timing covers and start the engine and watch the tensioner. It’s either flopping around or its not. Or try a mechanics sterhoscope or pulling onky the drivers side cover which is really easy but I can’t recall if it can be seen from there.

unplugging the sensor is not a definitive diagnosis. it would be good and easy first step that’s free and easy - particularity considering none of us can see the car and you’ve got the attention of one of the most knowledgeable Subaru gurus around. The help you receive from him will be as good as the info you give - i suggest getting that info Open loop is the engine control maps used before the engine is warm which doesn’t use O2 data. Closed loop is after the engine is warm and uses O2 data .

if you're worried about warranty let the dealer do it and ask them first. technically speaking if you get a bumper installed then the installing facility is responsible for warrantying anything related to the hitch and install (if they provide warranty for that) and the manufacturer of the hitch warranties the hitch. you can't install an aftermarket part with a 3rd party installer and expect a dealer or vehicle manufacturer to warranty that other companies aftermarket parts and some other facilities work - that's crazy. Manufacturers will still warranty systems not impacted by the hitch/install - you can't be denied warranty for a headlight because of a hitch installation for instance. It doesn't make sense and they'd suffer massive backlash if that was nominal ops. so - technically speaking it could, and should, work out fine - each respective entity warranties their end product or service. But if you're the worrying type, an accountant, or aren't well versed in understanding and addressing any possible pitfalls - you are entering ambiguous, contentious, and gray areas by assuming these three places all play nice together. So - you're probably better off letting a dealer handle all that if you're concerned about warranty and not comfortable understanding or wading through those nuances and potential complications. But it's also not hard to do what you suggested and not worry about it. Depends largely on your personality, preferences, and capabilities.

The calipers are *not* locked, it is all but impossible. The *slide pins* are locked. There is a difference, that's just how mechanics distill it for public consumption. It's a market driven price - priced right around the sweet spot of shops making easy money with repeatable results, happy customers, and consumers not wanting to deal with options. That price is about right - Very roughly it's $50 caliper, $50 rotor, $50 pads = $150 + $150 labor = $300 per side. You want to make sure the shop is using sil glyde or some other high quality cailper grease. the traditional old style grease causes the pin bushings (which subarus and other cars never used to have) to swell and is low grade stuff anyway, but there are still people using it. You could get this repaired this for about $300-$400 by replacing the slides and pads. This is what I would do and so I'd have you're entire car fixed for $50 in parts (free labor). Here's what you need to repair the "stuck" caliper, buy these and find a mechanic who will install them: $16 for two of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-14149/dp/B000C00XI2/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534858754&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-7&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+pin+kit $7 for one of these (this set is for both rear sides): https://smile.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-16083/dp/B000ZN3GNK/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534858754&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-4&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+pin+kit&dpID=41khsjLQ5%2BL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch Any average shop in the northeast has to have a torch to function so they have the tooling to remove even a terribly stuck slide pin, you just need to find one that will do it. If you want - you can even buy new caliper brackets - they're like $20 each, here's one for $25, then there's absolutely no question since no torch or time is needed to free the stuck slides: https://smile.amazon.com/Cardone-14-1605-Remanufactured-Caliper-Bracket/dp/B003PINW7C/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534859313&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+brackets&dpID=4179Sj5u1ZL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch You spend $25-$100 in getting the right parts and a shop charges $300 labor - and they're making the same amount of labor doing this rather than replacing the calipers.

Wow. Well done, that is fantastic.

www.car-part.com it just sucks trying to source old MT's with blown bearings and warn synchros being so common. can you rebuild/repair yours? lots of JDM options for engines and sometimes transmissions but i don't think regular old MT's.

the door lock timer triggers the door locks and isn't the remote unit i don't think. isn't the lock timer on the passengers side behind the glove compartment?

cars101 look under security stuff they have all the possibilities listed there. make sure to verify which system you had - 98 was a transition year or close to it in terms of security. i've had a 99 or two where i couldn't seem to match, find, or get anything to work.

This is the wheel that was in an accident? If this was an insurance job then I would take it back to the shop and ask them about it. 1. make sure the brake dust shield isn't bent or debris caught in it. 2. check brake pads and mating surface - maybe it's just light surface rust from sitting during the repair. 3. check emergency brake adjustment 4. if i had to guess after simple things are checked - wheel bearing or cv joint.

that's crazy. GD charges $2,250, impeccable reputation, and the highest cost Subaru market in the country. Almost twice the cost?

make sure it is the headgaskets first. other things will look like HG leaks. crank pulley bolts never fail, no need for that. make sure it has a metal rear separator plate and reseal that. subaru says to add the subaru coolant conditioner, I believe GD says do the job right and don't use it. initially your 99 forester factory headgaskets normally leak coolant first - and it was covered under an extended 100,000 mile headgasket warranty by subaru and they'd add the coolant conditioner. replacement gaskets have more varied failure modes - coolant, oil, internal leaks.

those are tough to diagnose - but it's something that can only impact one side. If you clear the codes - and then read them immediatly after driving, checking it a few times,a nd then checking it after the check engine light comes on - Is there one particular misfire that shows up first or is it always all three of them together? Make sure the COP's and injectors are good - but it's nearly impossible for 3 robust parts to all fail at the same time. someone had an 01-04 H6 in NY and couldn't track down a one sided misfire on all three cylinders. he sold it and the person that bought it ended up finding massive carbon deposits all in the head and I think doing a head gasket job. is there any timing chain noise? i'd guess the chain/tensioner is problematic or there's massive carbon build up in the head. i guess the first wild and cheap guess would be to seafoam the crap out of the intake in the hopes that it's carbon build up that's cleanable.

There's no simple, repeatable way to do this. Calling rust free states is a better option but still not foolproof for a variety of reasons. There's two options: A. Install new bearings - don't drive it too long on bad bearing and the hub will be fine. This is recommended, ideal, and what most in the know people are doing....and for good reason. B. Gamble with your time and money on used knuckles and bearings. But that comes with ambiguity and risk which you seem to frequently post about so I don't know if that's a great fit for you. Expecting an intact ball joint after knuckle removal on a Northeast car is too much. I would be pleasantly surprised to see an intact ball joint on a removed northeast rust bucket.

You misaligned the axles pins - they only line up one way - you need to rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it.

Pretty sure all 1.8's and 2.2's got cable clutch. So that's all 1997 and earlier imprezas All 1995 and earlier legacy's All 1998-2001 impreza's except the RS with the 2.5 1996-1999 legacy's with 2.2 - brightons, L's, LS...

Who knew you could fit a mini-machine shop inside the drum!?!?