idosubaru

For your message. Thanks for posting then asking. It’s a beast of a job. A JDM engine makes a lot of sense on these. It was sold because of bad headgaskets, happens all the time, due to the intermittent way that engine fails they’re prone to get sold to an unsuspecting buyer. Those heater cores do clog but they don’t cause overheating, they just cause cold heat. So yeah just clean them out to get your heat back. So you had two issues - headgaskets and clogged heater core. They’re unrelated in this case The timing chains last the life of the vehicle, if there’s no noise and you plan on reasonable oil quality and changes there’s nothing to replace. I’d replace the water pump because they’re only $100 but they really never fail either so take your pick. Use OEM. theres a tub of orings you’ll need for the timing covers. resurface the heads and use Subaru OEM gaskets. I don’t even think about checking for flatness any more, maybe I should but every Subaru head I’ve ever done has high and low spots but the H6s I’ve done are worse on average than the H4s. other than Tribeca engine removal being a little harder and the dual H6 timing covers 100 annoying hex bolts and 3 miles of sealant it’s a standard Subaru headgaskets job. on tribecas I’ve had to remove part of the upper radiator support (it’s bolted unlike every other Subaru that was welded), no big deal just a Tribeca thing to be mindful of.

is a used one okay or you want new? someone else has to have these laying around, I just had appendix surgery but if i didn't scrap them i have some of those at home.

the rear axle slides into a stub on both sides - do you need the wheel side or diff side? or do you mean you need the axle itself? i'd get a used one, post in parts wanted forum here, yards, pull a part, or www.car-part.com

Any number of possibilities: they’re gambling Shaft disconnected FWD fuse FWD transmission - I’ve converted Subarus to FWD If the other side rear is same size as front it could “work”. Some Tire shops do that - install two new tires on front and opposite side rear. I asked here how that works, there’s a thread about it. Car/engine is trashed and it doesn’t matter its not being driven like that. I’ve installed mismatched tires on Subarus mid-project to keep the knuckle covered (just did this last week) or borrow a wheel for another vehicle, etc.

google search took about 8 seconds: https://www.partcycle.com/parts/2005/Subaru/Outback/400/Transmission Assembly/770108/AT, Exc. Outback, (2.5L), Without Turbo, California Emissions/item/9576538?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuef41rGS3gIVCD0MCh0v8A1jEAQYAyABEgKSV_D_BwE

400k nice. Car-part.com ebay or google Subaru JDM

Vacuum leak. Check all air hoses around intake and recirculation/PVC hoses "ran fine before the O2 change?" - but still had a check engine code for oxygen sensor so it wasn't entirely symptom free. did you buy this thing from a wrecked and drive it 500 yards before doing this work or have you owned it since new? what are the lengths of time it was "asymptomatic" and "driven with an O2 code showing"?

OEM Strut mounts - at least check them or have them on hand and return if not needed. Brakes - clean and grease the slides (if disc) with high quality Sil Glyde or equivalent. I would buy a brake kit with new pad clips as they get old and hang pads due to build up corrosion or rust. Get OEM clips or top quality if possible, I’ve seen aftermarkets rust not long after install. Check cv boots and see if they’re split.

Do an EJ22 or EJ18 swap. Plug and play easy, I have a write up about it. Ive bought an EJ18 before for $150 in car-part.com and ran it hundreds of thousands of miles in place of an EJ25. Look at my write up to determine which engines work and any needed work arounds it’s really easy - easier than a head job you should diagnosis it properly first. Pressure test the cooling system, leak down test and compression test in that order. Compression test is nearly useless on that engine for anyone familiar with it If it’s bad enough to fail that it’s obvious it’s the HGs if it’s head related Itll be the gaskets and not the heads. The bigger concern is how badly it’s been overheated in the past (there’s a good chance it was previously overheated badly), this will cause bearings to fail later. If you want to repair, Use the FSM from Subaru. Follow directions, ask about anything you need. Remove crank pulley, fans, radiator, drive belts/tensioner pulley, covers and timing belt swing AC compressor to the drivers side battery tray area and leave it sit there. pull intake manifold and drop exhaust manifold remove engine and replace gaskets or attempt to do it in the car - have to remove lower 14mm engine mount nuts and jack up one side at a time for access. remove valve covers then heads. reaurface heads and use Subaru gaskets

So far they seem readily available and not expensive so demand isn't vastly outstripping supply. I feel like they're a little higher than 10 year old 4EAT's were 10 years ago but maybe that's just inflation GD cautioned extended warranties may have kept prices low.

That's the thing - I haven't seen any FB or CVT issues personally yet. Acquaintances, friends, and family driving these things who typically come to me with questions are cruising along without issues. Also Subaru's growth over that same time period is going to result in increased *numbers* of vehicles with issues even if the *rate* stays absolutely flat. If the CVT has the same amount of failures as the older EAT trans, you'd see the same rate of failures but 3 times as many in quantity due to sales increases from like 180,000 to almost 700,000 in those 10 years. It wouldn't be hard for anecdotal people...which comprises most of this country...to make incorrect assessments from something that isn't noteworthy. There are FB and CVT issues but let the data speak not emotions, anecdotes, and opinions...

No If a small risk of cheap, straight forward trans replacement has you balking you’d never survive an auto swap on a modern Subaru. It would bolt up but swapping the harness would be a nightmare and playing nice with the CANBUS and FB would be all but impossible.

no. put it up for sale right now and give it 6 months or a year. see what happens and let the market tell you. if you want $200 for it, won't disassemble, won't ship, and won't spread it across various venues for exposure it's not likely going anywhere any time soon. ; if you disassemble it, sell it for $50 and ship it - maybe someone will jump. if you're not willing to disassemble it to sell the guts that further constrains the value since it's unlikely to find a local buyer, you'll need to ship more than likely. yes - someone could look for one in a few years, maybe stumble on this forum, be close enough to get it....but that's highly unlikely. if you want to stash it away for that roll of a dice maybe, then sure have at it.

I have handed a shop the shaft and Ujoints and let them install them as well. Remove it and see how many feel lumpy, given how rarely they fail, easier to remove, and how many 200k+ originals I’ve seen, I’d be tempted to just replace the bad one if the others feel fine and money is on the radar.

It is a forum rule not to argue price and GD isn't known for being PR. Suffice it to say you'll have better luck listing that elsewhere with less subaru/mechanic experience. As you requested - it took 6 seconds to find one in his city that's being parted out: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/subaru-svx-parts-parting-door/6720850576.html Here are more than 36 with warranties and no blown headgaskets: http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi JDM importers may be able to still get some depending if it's supply or demand slowing down that train: https://jdmenginesimport.com/details/491/subaru/jdm-eg33-svx-engine-transmission.html

That is not a possible combination from Subaru so you need to clarify something *first*. It may have confused Montana tom. A 99 GT came with a Phase I EJ25. A 99 legacy came with Phase II EJ22. Your description could sound like a Phase I or Phase II. Phase II would easily work in your 2003 but a Phase I does not, without additional work and issues since the plugs are different we can assume this was a 2.5 GT and swapped to a 2.2 at some point. So that is likely a 95-99 EJ22 95 would have dual port exhaust. 96-98 has single port. So no you can’t easiky swap that intakes do not swap. You can’t put a Phase II intake on a Phase I the holes don’t line up. 1. You can install the 2003 Phase II wiring harness into the Phase I EJ22. It leaves you with improper idle control though you need to work around and maybe check engine lights I forget 2. You can install Phase 2 heads and then bolt on a Phase II intake manifold that’s the easiest and cleanest way with no workarounds needed. Any 99-01 EJ22 heads and manifold. Any 00-04 EJ heads and intake. if there are can and crank issues as Montana tom mentioned that will be easily worked around by swapping the cam and crank sprocket, not the sensors. It’s easy - but don’t even think about that until you determine what you’re going to use and which option above you choose decide that first before the sprocket diffeneves that’s really easy

That’s not true by itself. EJ swaps are done all the time regardless of auto or manual. I’ve done them multiple times as well. You can also look up part numbers on Subaru website to verify this.

It doesn’t have two knock sensors. it’s really easy. One 12mm bolt and done. 10 minutes if concurrently sipping a beer. find the FSM from Subaru online and use the chiltons for kindling. They’re free and easy to find. Or get more picture grabs online, it’s really easy and will give you the torque value and orientation and location. FSM: ideally you get a 1996 Impreza FSM but any 95-98 legacy or Impreza 2.2 will suffice for the knock sensor job.

That will reduce displacement, and compression or electronics, on a heavier and more ground clearance car. One guy ran low compression turbo pistons, many said it wouldn’t be drivable, and he said it was fine to drive around. But he didn’t change electronics, vehicle weight or displacement.

How do you know the stock MC failed? What about the Slave cylinder and slave hose - those are commonly replaced together? Could those be bad? I’m not well versed on these like those guys are so ignore me mechanically here but I’ll point out that some people have had horrid times bleeding clutch fluid. I hate them. I’ve spent stupid time bleeding, getting nowhere then the next day done in 3 minutes...I was already close to done? Bubbles migrated somewhere convenient overnight? Who knows but challenging clutch bleeding wouldn’t be a first

In the rust belt - just remove the top strut mount bolt after marking it for alignment, loosen the lower one. No rust issues there. I've done it on a some 2005+ legacy/outbacks but I don't think it worked on the tribeca due to not enough clearance from the stubby shaft that now slides into the trans being apart of the axle. so i guess it's model dependent. But yeah - avoid the pinch bolt at all costs. The lower ball joint bolt might be easier if that's a possibility. Maybe it's model dependent but the swaybar link doesn't need to come off on the few 2005+ I've done.

Verify diagnosis first. Is it piston slap - gets a little less loud as the engine warms up? Timing tensioner or exhaust leaks get blamed for rod knock. If it’s an EJ25D then EJ22 swap it.

No damage. pull a side timing cover to inspect - it’s only 3 10mm bolts, easier than changing oil.

use a Subaru seal, they are directional and therefore right/left dependent. correct, seal replacement is similar labor to axle job, as GD said it's not hard or long, certainly not a "butt load" of work. they're rather easy. get a free FSM online rather than the haynes manual. your front axle job will be identical to any outback since 2005 so you can also google axle job and probably find a video. as much as i hate aftermarket axles, it's unlikely to do damage if it's currently asymptomatic. i've only seen two new aftermarket axles blow to pieces while driving (one on the interstate)...they're trash but not much chance of damage.

howdy. broken timing belt. pull passengers or drivers side timing cover (3 10mm bolts) and look. you can often hear it as the engine just whirrs without cranking much of anything over. phillips head screw driver - pull fuel hose in engine bay and crank key - does fuel pour out or not? read check engine light and let us know what you got.