idosubaru

Chux is right - they’re the same phase so it’ll install fine but will require one extra step: the legacy and Imp final drive won’t match. The simplest solution is to swap the rear diff to match the trans 4.44 final drive ratio. legacy should be 4.44 so you’ll need a 4.44 rear diff that accepts your Impreza axles. 02 Impreza rear axles May not slide into a 2001 legacy rear diff. I could be wrong I don’t follow Impreza closely I’m unsure if the rear axles swap but Impreza and legacy rear axles aren’t always interchangeable in the same year. Legacys went to newer axle style before Imprezas. Not sure when that happened and Imprezas had a few changes through the early 00’s. so you’ll have to research which axles the 02 Impreza uses and get a matching 4.44 rear diff That being said there’s no way losing fluid in a radiator swap was enough to trash the transmission. losing that amount would not bring the fluid level from between the low/high marks on the dipstick, to not registering on the dipstick, which it would need to in order to damage anything. Also if the trans were that unforgiving to losing a pint of fluid or less they’d be blowing up left and right with steep mountains and spirited driving sloshing the fluid around.

Well it sort of is and isn’t, and there’s anomalies. In 96 the EJ25 is interference but all other EJs are not. I’ve seen one “documented”, meaning enough seemingly good investigative work and known history, case of a 96 suffering bent valves. I’d guess they’re very rare and maybe some have been swapped by now in some way to change their interference status. And I’ve heard a couple claims of interference with evidence on par with that of Bigfoot sightings.

Nonissue once he realizes he doesn’t need an oil pump. There’s no way a JDM EJ has a proprietary Japanese only pump. I’ve installed JDM engines. Don’t think I’ve ever swapped oil pumps on a Japanese motor but plenty of other parts between US and Japan. If he’s positive it’s the pump it can be resealed. Tighten the backing plate screws, one very commonly replaced oring, and bolt it back up with new RTV While it’s out the clearances from the FSM can be measured. I mean no one ever does that but if they’re that concerned about it there’s an option

Yes sir, thanks, that makes the most sense to clear that up.

True I am assuming a lot in this very vague request. Although a failed VLSD can be used to convert an MT Subaru to FWD or RWD. Lol

yes. Final drive ratios differ but they’re interchangeable. Match the rear diff, drive in FWD or otherwise address the final drive ratio and swap away. also 99 is an odd cross over year of Phase I and II. 956-98 stuff is easy and simple. 99 can still interchange but there can be quite a variety.

Yes CVT only. Make sure all the recalls are done when you get one. You can add a Subaru extended warranty to any Subaru still under the factory warranty. I’m just not sure if a second owner can if you buy it used. If you can do that as a second owner, another option is to buy one still under original factory warranty and add the extended Subaru warranty. It used to be relatively inexpensive for 100k or even 120k warranty so it was a great deal for some folks. Subaru did I think start limiting dealers from selling the warranty for cars not sold at their dealer. You used to be able to buy the car in New York then call a dealer in Texas to add the warranty. I don’t think you can do that now and so your pricing may be worse or depending on local dealer. It is negotiable in price though so you can google what others have paid.

something is seriously messed up in that picture. The toothed pulley is not next to the cam sprocket. there’s a smooth pulley next to each cam, there shouldn’t be a toothed cogged idler all the way up there. I’m guessing it totally disintegrated or sheared the bolt off and jumped up that high. That’s the one most likely to fail by 100 miles.

No. If you’ve gotta be cheap get a Subaru belt and lower cogged pulley. You can even leave the covers off to monitor the condition of the other pulleys. The others fail less often and the belt can slide over them instead of everything turning to $!&’jnj!$&! immediately if it fails. The pulleys will rust if it sees a lot of winter snow treatment. Still can run it as the riding and contact surfaces stay clean but it does rust If you get an aftermarket kit don’t use the included bolt, they’re substandard low grade metal and I’ve seen them shear within months of installation (not installed by me) No point replacing the pump. Those EJ pumps fail so rarely you have far more chance of your new aftermarket parts failing than an old pump if it’s OEM. At most maybe it leaks later but probably not. I’ve never seen a failed OEM EJ water pump. Other Subaru water pumps I would replace proactively but not cost conscious EJ jobs.

Awesome. Thanks Chux, very much appreciated. 2016 is the year I’m currently thinking about so I might buy that same alt you looked up If I can’t find a low mileage used OEM. Currently 200,000 miles started life as a southern car, zero rust, in impeccable condition so there’s a decent chance of a lot more miles so I’ll likely replace the alt preemptively.

(Ignoring 00-04 fuel pump cap tab cracking and oring issues). I’d guess alternator but have never kept track. Alternator sees more heat cycling, isn’t sitting in a “cooling fluid” (a tank of gas like a fuel pump), and it has more of a “computer” with the built in voltage regulator. I’ll ask my parts guy how many alternators vs fuel pumps are in the regional warehouse for fun.

In anticipation of your typical responses like this I intentionally put “manufacturer” as the first word of my reply. Manufacturer and type have no bearing in this context.

Subaru only on wheel bearings and use a torque wrench that’s accurate. Or the OEM supplier if you can verify it. Sometimes you get an OEM bearing in a MOOG or Beck Arnley Box then the next time you buy the same bearing, same car, same supplier you get a non-Subaru bearing? Moving target unless you can verify the manufacturer. Non-Subaru Aftermarket wheel bearings are trash and fail all the time. They fail less often if torqued very carefully, use a toque wrench. Follow the Subaru manual procedure. Torque before putting the car on the ground. I can zip on Subaru bearings without a torque wrench and they never fail. The aftermarket bearings needing much more babied gives me littlr confidence in the long run so I avoid them when I can If you’re having repeat failures using OEM Subaru bearings and proper torque settings then let us know: 1. Has it had an alignment? 2. Do you have records of how many times and mileage you’ve replace each rear bearing? Post it if you do 3. have you owned it since new? 4. has it ever been wrecked? 5. Is it rusty?

Manufacturer or pattern difference doesn’t matter. It’s size dependent. It’s like driving a Subaru or truck on pavement with locked 4WD, which binds when turning. Different size tires can cause the same exact issue by virtue of tire circumference difference rather than turning radius difference. Subaru lists their recommendations looks like others have posted that If it’s a VDC or has a VTD, they’re indestructible in regards to the rear transfer gear set. Run 4 dramatically different tires and you won’t blow that thing up. Im joking but I don’t care to run a mismatched tire on VTD, it doesn’t matter. From a physics stand point running one new tire on a Subaru isn’t a big deal if you pay attention to your diffs. But that’s too technical for public consumption. On MPT transmissions with open front and rear diffs, If buying one new tire - place it where your tires wear the most (front or back). Rotate the older three tires until the new one wears down to the same tread depth and then they’re all the same. The smaller tire diameters will be the “driven” tires since power goes to the one needing less torque. From an engineering stand point the larger tire won’t be the one the differential “sees”. There are tire shops that will install two new tires - one on the front and one on the rear opposite side of Subarus for these same reasons. I never figured out why they do opposite sides except maybe just for traction on both sides of the car for rain/snow. if you have rear vlsd they usually fail and operate as an open anyway. Lol. But if one cares, put the larger one up front which is usually seeing more wear on older Subarus. If it doesn’t then you’ll have the unfortunate situation of the smaller tires wear outpacing the new larger one. Now if the three wear down you’ll be be stuck with one smaller tire and potentially 3 new tires which is a trickier situation to juggle regarding “mismatched tires”. If you have more than 4 tires just rotate them accordingly until they all match.

I imagine this was already mentioned but I’ve seen some 2005+ vehicles have idling/stalling problems after having the battery disconnected for awhile. I assumed the ECU has some relearn procedure due to lost stored data.

It can work if you make it work, we've already given you what you need to know to do it. Make sure the final drives match. Swap the rear diff to match, that donor trans is 4.11 and outback is 4.44. Get the flex plate if you can...it's been awhile but I think all the 90's flex plates interchange just fine, but I'd just get it, there's no reason not to.

I wouldn’t leave a 20 year old belt on an interference engine. If you’re positive it’s Subaru it’s got a lot better chance than aftermarket I’ve seen clutches free up on older ones that sat, just by driving. I’d drive it and periodically remove the FWD fuse to see if they’re any better. Initial torque bind almost always responds well to fluid changes so that’s worth a try IMO.

1. Check the pad clips. They may be bent or have rust on the caliper which pushes the clips out a little. I’ll remove clips and make sure no rust is bubbling under them on the caliper bracket. 2. hose collapse. If a flexible rubber hose collapses internally it’ll prevent the fluid pressure from backing up and the caliper can’t release fully. The brake booster provides enough pressure to push through it. It’s not very common on Subarus. I highly doubt it’s the master cylinder.

different final drives as wtdash already said. you could install it and run it in FWD or get the matching rear diff and swap that to match.

local shop here charges $50-$75 to weld a rusted flange or joint. I’ll toss them a $100, that’s too cheap. I’ve installed a couple of low cost eBay or rock auto exhaust parts. They bolted right up and work if that’s all you’re asking for. They will rust a lot quicker than stock OEM if you’re in the rust belt or want them to last 10+ years. If you plan on owning it a long time I’d look at it carefully and if there’s any signs of other rust or rusty flanges/muffler it’s worth just replacing it all now.

Yes sucking air means more air and lower fuel/air ratio = lean.

Intake hose. Air cleaner hose. Valve. Solenoid. Intake solenoid. The EJ18 has some wildly confusing intake contraptions. The blow out on the intake hose you posted looks too big for a small solenoid hose - it’s more like egr Recirc size. But the broken solenoid is definitely a solenoid. Subaru online parts diagrams are fairly decent. I’d look those up for part names and number. Then search google or eBay or junk yards using those names and numbers. This is just an example and not necessarily what you need but first thing I pulled up for example of a 1993 intake hose diagram this may include the valve or solenoid you need: https://parts.wheelingsubaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49227167&ukey_assembly=6021290 https://parts.wheelingsubaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49287214&ukey_assembly=6021122

Yea it should be there.

Turn very sharply on sweeping turns at 40+ mph both to the left and right. If noise goes away under that side loading it’s the bearing. Not just during the sweeping turn. But even do a quick 1 second extra few degree turn while doing the sweeping turn to the right or left while turning. Noise will disappear during that momentary sharp turn at speed. This is the most consistent test I’ve seen on ones that are relatively loud. havw someone else drive and sit in the rear seat or hatch area and front passenger seat it should be obvious which corner it is An infrared temp gun on each rotor will tell you if one is much hotter than the other side. Take lots of readings at same point on rotor as the heat dissipation and readings aren’t consistent. But you’ll see a pattern and 30-100 degree difference. This doesn’t always work either but catches some that pass the “play” and typical bearing tests Moog bearing has a very good chance of failing again. I avoid aftermarket bearings and I’ve still seen numerous failures. Moog, Timken…even the “good” ones you just never know. I’ve never seen an OEM Subaru bearing repeat failure. And I use them far more often and on any car that’s likely to see a lot more years/miles If you use after market bearings they have a lower failure rate if properly torqued. The Subaru bearings can be zipped on and abused with an air gun and not torqued and walked in back forth to a rusty hub and never fail. I don’t use a torque wrench on Subaru bearings. Not one failure. Aftermarket will fail if they’re treated roughly, not installed straight and torqued properly. Which speaks to their quality and all the more reason to avoid. But they are cheap so if you use aftermarket again clean everything up, install it straight and clean and torque it properly.

Could it be torn rear diff or trans mount bushings?