idosubaru

If it's not getting properly burped between all this cooling system work - it could just keep having air in it.

Probably headgaskets - but you can hope it needs an OEM tstat and radiator cap, and absolutely properly burped (no air at all, zero, none, in the cooling system). Fairtax is right these internal headgasket failure symptoms aren't normal - but these engines will ocassionally have this issue if the headgaskets were previously replaced - so tell us the history of the car? How long have you owned it? How long did you own it before symptoms arose? Were the HG's ever replaced? Where did you buy it from?

Heating is a back up option for sure but one i've never needed. One difference is It's not like other bolts that are just rust welded from the back side, through the middle, or the entire shank. That doesn't really happen here and they're large, beefy bolts/nuts. So once the initial movement happens, it should come out. The nuts can be worse because if the studs/nut threads are rusty then it'll grab and bite on the way out too even after loosening. The rest - never had an issue after the first movement.

***What did the dealer say? Take it back and demonstrate the issues. Take it to a another dealer. The defroster runs the A/C - so this sounds like it may be directly linked to the A/C. Does it change if you switch the setting from interior air to external air (if equipped, i think every subau i've ever owned has that functionality?). I know this is entirely impractical but it sounds to me like you need to stop driving the car immediately, no matter what that means. You're endangering yourself and others. If something is lasting two weeks, creating films, and noxious fumes, and has those large directly linked to the A/C system - I would think this should be easy to demonstrate in person at the dealer.

Engine = 200 CFM's. Large compressor = 20 CFM's You'll have to run 220 volt electric service in your Subaru and strap 10 of those compressors to your car. https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-professional-80-gallon-4-7-rhp-oil-lubricated-professional-air-compressor-155-max-psi-230-volt-high-flow-single-stage?taxon_id=1642 That's an illustration, nothing more. What you're missing is the difference bewteen a fan and a compressor - they are not even remotely close to the same thing. It'll help in the long run to learn a little bit about ICE's, the difference between fans and compressors, and how and why FI works. It's basic physics and no cheap trick, part, or technique is going to change that.

i've rarely seen Subaru wheel bearings exhibit play when they're failing. i've even seen them feel tight on the car and not after i have it removed...not sure how/why, but they just seem unpredictable. two wheel bearing determination "aids" - though nothing is ever definitive with wheel bearings: 1. listen with mechanics stethoscope on hub or strut spring while turning wheel - listen for noises 2. hit it with a temperaure gun after driving - after hearing the noise. compare both sides in the same areas - usually takes a few readings to get a feel for what's happening since temps can vary wildly across a short distance. here's a thread i made: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143097-is-that-my-wheel-bearing-easy-diagnosis/ pictures don't seem to be showing up for me so here's a repeat: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/111946-easy-wheel-bearing-diagnosis.html but again - that's not definitive either - it only sometimes shows ones that exhibit no other symptoms.

are you talking about the bellhousing or the actual trans mount bolts at the rear of the trnasmission? are the lower mount nuts by the axles really rusty and flaking? issues are rare here. the two worst culprits are the two lower nuts behind the axles - those are the most prone to issues. if they're badly rusted remove the axles and make sure you go at them straight and with a quality 6 point socket at perfect 90/180 degree angles of applied force. as soon as it starts slipping - stop and reassess. i forget what i've done in the past but i've never had a problem ultimately getting them out either. if they're tight - turn it once or twice (depending how tight) then go do something else to let them cool down. come back to it - washer, rinse, repeat, never letting the bolt get hot - therby expanding, exaccerbating the issue, and compromising the materials properties as you go. i ocassionally run into one bellhousing bolt that's a real beast - and galls and really tight on the way out, for no reason, no rust - but heat wouldn't help those. just follow the wash/rinse/repeat method listed above and have a tap and die to clean the threads of any of those tight bolts so they go in without stripping during reinstall.

Subaru is usually a good option for easy/simple parts like this - plugs, wires, VCG's, the cost difference is meager relatively speaking. Rockauto Fel Pro valve cover gasket set: $27.59 with the eternal 5% discount code + shipping. $25.193 with 30% discount code at Advance auto parts I can get it for $21.59 at Advance Auto parts using the 40% discount code for the other parts and typical necessary items like washer fluid, gas treatment, cleaners, rags, etc. cheaper, shows up locally to people who know me and help me out routinely, or free delivery to my house.

you haven't told us what vehicle - though i can kind of guess... are you talking about parking brake (in the rear) or the actual braking system? we can't see it "rear brakes non-existant" - what does that mean? you should have asked them, not us. pads, shoes, drum, parking brakes, or they're not effectively operating? 1. jack up the car 2. step on the brakes 3. can someone move the tire by hand while stepping on the brakes? 4. if yes - fix it 5. if no - video tape it, ask them, or go somewhere else

i would be moving on to another engine too. EJ22 swap all the way.

something like 1995-1999 legacy's (maybe others) have a recall for the front coil springs. you might want to call and see if it's: A. covered B. can get the potential upgrade after you repair it - or get it on the other side at least

i'd just go simple if low cost is the goal. i'd put the cam money towards an EJ22 instead, they're not hard to find cheap.

1990-1991 are the same part 1992-1994, and 1993-2001 impreza are the same part 1995-1999 are interchangeable i'm unsure of the interchangeability between those three groups.

there's no interchange really - it depends on parts and what you're trying to do - there's too many variables. "be able to use these parts" - depends what you mean... body parts - forester and impreza's and SVX's are out. 1995-1999 outbacks same body, legacy wagons similar, front of legacy sedans the same. engine, trans, brakes, interior, suspension (and how much of the suspension)..all have different answers. the engine is directly interchangeable with any 1996-1998 EJ25 vehicle and 1999 Outacks and Legacys with EJ25, as well as 1995 automatic EJ22's, and 1995 manuals EJ22's with a minor work around with vacuum lines. that engine and the exhaust manifold is plug and play compatible with 1996-1998 EJ22 vehicles, impreza or legacy. suspension and brakes generally interchange all day long on subarus but there are some notes depending on years/models/goals. wanting to swap "A" often means also swapping "A" and "B"....

or if there were timing belt issues - broken belt, tensioner, etc. then you're wondering which valves are bent or not. but yeah on an uncompromised, normal looking engine, i've never even thought about it.

replace the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals/gaskets. if access is tight for spark plugs- like the H6 engines - i replace them at the same time. they go from a pain (see all the threads started about them) to easy with the valve covers removed. takes minutes and done. concur - overfilled oil likely not a contributing factor. you can always crank the drain plug a little bit and let some oil out to get it down to normal level and see what happens if you think it was overfilled really badly.

swap the oil cooler over to the new engine or just install it without an engine. pull engine plug, install oil cooler fitting.

is there a reason to test them? broken belt or some other compromising situation? i don't routinely test heads during a head gasket job, there's no reason too. i've tested a couple for various reasons - i think it's said not to use water as it promotes rust. pretty sure minimal seapage, weeping, isn't rare on nominally running engines. at thousands of RPM's and thousandths of a second internal combustion temps/pressures, the losses are probably immeasurable. but that is just guess - it may come down to more nuanced questions and answers.

test drive one that isn't borked from the start (missing gears, etc)? It shouldn't have any problems driving/passing cars as needed. I mean "driving/passing" are somewhat ambiguous - but what you described doesn't sound normal and that DOHC shoudln't "stand out" in poor performance in any significant way. it should feel like a very average 2.5 liter 165 hp sedan. they're not a smoking 2.5 liter or 165 hp but they're not gutless or notably slow/poor either. it sounds to me like you weren't impressed with ***that car*** rather than that engine...and the little we know alraedy suggests it's got issues - missing gears, so i'm not sure how many wide ranging universal assumptions about an entire platform would be helpful from that one experience.

great, thanks scott, love it. i recommend your stuff all the time usually on subaruoutback, awesome to hear the recent updates.

aluminum sounds like a great fit Why the switch?

Run a tap through it and see what happens. Sometimes you get lucky. Slightly larger tap, i'd probably go for it, it's benign enough i wouldn't be too worried about it, but I'm weird if it was my personal vehicle I wouldn't even care to run it with just one bolt, it's not going anywhere. that hood plate will rust in place in due time around here anyway. LOL I assume being a captive nut and thin hood there's no room to work with - but on the engine you can often use a longer bolt that accesses threads that are deeper than the orginal bolt. Done that gobs of times, but captive nut situation that might not work.

Entire XT and XT6 parts manual here: http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12803

the parts manual is posted on subaruxt.com

dropping the tank is terrible in the rust belt and anyway, this is an easy and common repair. I've done it, i just talked my neighbor through it who had never done it before, and he got it done without much issue himself, i didn't even go over to help. 1. Buy stock hard line at any auto parts store and fittings and borrow a tubing bender (free from many national chains like Advance Auto) 2. Remove the rear seat and you'll see an access panel to on the passengers side where all the brake line fittings are - remove that access panel. 3. Run the hard line from that access panel to the appropriate caliper, bending it as needed as you go. 4. Splice the connections in place. 5. When you go to bleed a system that has been emptied it will TAKE FOREVER. I would get one of the assist devices - you'll literally have to pump the brakes 50 times and go through the bleed sequence 4 rotations sometimes to bleed a system tha's been emptied while driving sometimes. Another option that's really easy and can be done in like an hour, and it's my preferred method of doing it now: run the hard line myself - drive the car to a shop with the EBrake - and have them finish up the fittings. I hate doing those flared fittings and they probably have better tools, certainly less damaged than the free rental stuff - and certainly better practice as they do this all the time. It's so cheap it's not worth me fiddling with it. But I have done it myself in the past and my neighbor friend pulled it off last month too if you're die hard DIY like I am sometimes too. No way you want to even think about dropping the tank ever unless you absolutely must. You'll have rusty fasteners, sheared bolts, and issues trying to drop a tank in the rust belt areas. You're already dealing with rust issues - the line leaking - more than likely there's plenty more rust to go around.