idosubaru

Copy, I had been looking at the laws earlier this summer so it was fresh on my mind for other reasons. And I'm typically rolling through cars for various reasons too - seasons, kids, rust, work...

+1, i'd diagnose some more. we can help. give us exact symptoms: front rear left right speed depednent? temp dependent? flat/grade dependent? turning dependent? noise? vibration? noise and vibration? how long? has it been getting worse?

people have also installed the Phase II (2003) wiring harness onto a 95-99 era Subaru intake manifolds. Since all 1990-1998 EJ22 intake manifolds will physically bolt to each others engines - this might be the simple work around to get a movable vehicle. There are MAF/MAP differences, and the idle is flaky/needs help, and you may get a check engine light, but it will run fine. I think they say you bolt the Phase II throttle body to the Phase I intake manifold. Then install the Phase II wiring harness onto the Phase I intake manifold. Gloyale did it and someone else has as well. Then it's "plug and play" with some issues to work around and probably a check engine light. You can find his previous posts about it on here with some searching.

I'm genuinely interested in this conversation - can I really sell 7 cars a year for profit without a license (assuming I pay taxes on the profit)? Not sure it's ever enforced, but I'm not talking about the "legal minimum" that most states have. I should have avoided the "without a license comment". What I meant is there are other laws in place that could be used against typical "flipping". Again - I don't know if they're ever used though, but they are sometimes in place. Idaho statutes state that these activities require a dealer license: "Engaging in the business of selling, exchanging, or consigning vehicles/vessels" https://itd.idaho.gov/dmv/vehicleservices/vs_dealr.htm Probably never enforced, but seems to directly answer flipping vehicles for profit - that's presumably "in the business of" for those doing it frequently. If i'm selling 5 vehicles a year for $2,000 more than I paid - it might look like I'm "engaging in the business of selling". Oregon, keep in mind they have the same 5 vehicle limit per year as well: "Otherwise, unless exempted by law (ORS 822.015), a Dealer’s Certificate is required for any person or entity buying, selling, brokering, trading or exchanging vehicles; offering, displaying or advertising a vehicle for sale; or acting as any type of agent for the seller or buyer of a vehicle. To dispel a myth, Oregon law does not allow persons to buy and sell five vehicles per year without a valid dealer’s certificate unless exempted by law. (ORS 822.005 and 822.015)." " If I title the vehicle in my name can I then immediately resell it? Titling a vehicle in your name to avoid dealer certification (licensing) requirements does not exempt you. You must be able to prove that you used the vehicle personally, for your household, family, or for your business to be exempt from dealer certification requirements." So Oregon choose to use different terminology - must be used for person, household, family or business uses....then it can be sold. It can't be bought and sold with the intent to make money. Washington State department of licensing: " A curbstoner is a person who makes money from buying used vehicles and reselling them. They’re unlicensed dealers who don’t comply with state or federal laws. You have no legal protection when dealing with them." Again - not saying it's ever enforced..but I'm curious.

+1 "using the turning direction" as a diagnosis doesn't work well on modern wheel bearings.

*** When it starts blowing hot - I assume the compressor quits running? That pressure looks roughly on target but I'm not a pressures expert. The most common issue I see is they loose charge through leaky orings on the compressor: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html

Timing Belt: The timing belts need replaced because they're ancient by now - and because the pulleys are probably low on grease too. Complete Gates kits are on Amazon - great deal for belt, pulleys, and tensioner. Here's the kit with water pump: http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP277A-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B0033DMFI6 You don't really need the water pump though - they very, very rarely fail. If they do - they just leak and you get it repaired in those odd cases. I would replace it - but if money is tight it's not a big deal to skip it. Without water pump: http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCK277A-Timing-Belt-Kit/dp/B0033DGU1Y/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1442588520&sr=1-4&keywords=Gates+1999+Subaru+timing+kit It'll cost $250 - $500 to have it installed depending on your local area/mechanics. In time it would be good to change the transmission fluid, front differential fluid. Spark plugs and wires are wise too - but in reality you'll get a check engine light and cylinder misfire when they start to age. Headgaskets cost about $1,500 - $2,000 to repair, but just keep driving and worry about that if it happens.

Yes, that's done all the time.

Actually I don't think that's how the law is written - i say this for clarity, not that any one here cares !!!! LOL. States set a limit on how many cars you can sell in a year (though I don't know that they actually ever monitor it). But - they don't ever qualify it like that - "without having a dealer's license". Because States also have laws indicating that any vehicles sold for profit require an auto dealers license. So yes, you can sell cars each year. But if you're doing so for profit - you need an auto dealers license. The law permitting the sale of so many cars per year just means if you need to get rid of 6 cars because you're moving or something - you can legally do so. This is for the few states that I know, I don't know Colorado law but I would guess it's similar - there's big money in the biz and big dealers do not want anyone legally able to sell cars without a license - it would be bad for competition since they have massive overheard for property, staff, workers comp, insurance, etc.

have to do a complete intake, wiring, and ECU swap for it to work. you'll need a turbo crossmember for the 1997 for the exhaust to clear or cut and weld/fabricate the existing crossmember.

it needs a tune up and wheel bearings. no big deal. 1. Timing kit first - if that fails the valves will get bent. Gates kits are only $130 on amazon for a complete belt and tensioner and pulleys. Do that and it's good for another 100,000. Any wet seals (cam, crank, oil pump) should be replaced while the belt is off - they're only $7 each. Most of us just replacing them all while we're in there, but if you're paying labor you might not want to. 2. Repair THE bad wheel bearing, do not replace them in pairs or all four. Start a thread if you can't diagnose which one it is. 3. Alignment and wheels balanced can wait depending on tire condition, but not a big deal anyway - i mean every car needs tires and alignments. 4. "full service and tune up" - this should scare you. Or the dealer/mechanic that told you that should scare you. You can work on that as time goes on but in general you should never pay for ambiguity like "100,000 miles service" or "Tune up" or "Full service"....those are marketing gimmicks designed to give as much access as possible to your wallet. Change the transmission and front diff fluid sometime soon - those are by far the most important. The rest can wait and aren't a big deal. Spark plugs and wires and PCV valve would be wise sometimes in the near future but you'll get a clyidner misfire and check engine light when the plugs/wires are bad so you can always wait until that happens if you're "in over your head" - it won't cause any issues.

wait, let me rephrase that. i wouldn't do it again! i did go on a 2,100 mile road trip with a failing bearing one time, it failed about 1,400 miles in so still had 700 miles to go.

i wouldn't go on an 1,800 mile trip. can you tell while driving if it's left or right? if you think it's one side - it probably is. have someone stand outside the vehicle and drive past them on both sides - which side is louder? unfortunately there is no one test that will confirm every failing wheel bearing. i have located a couple with the heat gun, but plenty also avoid determination that way too. the old school "check for play" technique is nearly worthless with modern bearings. the only one or two i've seen that would fail that test were so obviously wheel bearings that the test wasn't needed.

In general those vehicles easily make 150,000 miles without many issues. headgaskets are the one glaring issue on that particular engine. the only symptom is random overheating. But there is absolutely no way to predict mileage the headgasket will fail on that car - they are completely random. Anyone that guesses a mileage simply doesn't know that engine very well. They were blowing under warranty at 20,000 miles when they were new, most people now just weren't' around then to know that. it might fail next week - it might run 200,000 miles without issue. Complete timing kit, serpentine belts, battery are good ideas to prevent being stranded, which tend to give people bad feelings about a car. i like a thorough brake overhaul as well - new pad clips, boots if needed and clean and regrease the pins. That's easy for me and maybe expensive or hard to find a mechanic to do a thorough job.

My multimeter has 2 foot or less reach with the two probes. What are some good electrical testing equipment/tools/devices for testing for continuity across large distances? How do you guys test from the trunk to the engine bay or even interior to engine bay with a multimeter? 1. There has to be a simple kit, tool, or something for this right? 2. Are there thinner pinned probes for getting into harnesses a little easier? I've made all the extensions out of wiring and jumper cables, but surely there's a simpler way?

nice notes Crazyeights - it just pulls through the fire wall?

look up the thread on here about resurfacing the heads yourself - it's super easy to do. it not only makes it flat, but provides the proper RA finish the gaskets are designed for. they almost always have high and low spots regardless of "warping" and testing. particularly if they've been run with issues for awhile - those IME have been the worst in terms of high and low spots. the one i drove with bad headgaskets for awhile got progressively worse and when i did the heads in it - the area of the heads/block where the breech occurred had been warn significantly - i posted picutres of it over a decade ago either on here or subaruxt.com. a significant portion of the metal was just warn away like rocks in a river - probably due to localized overheating/reactions? i can't recall if i just got another used head or risked it... but i did fix i and drove that car afterwards. anyway - i'd try and limit how long i drove it and default to "i'll just run this thing until i can't any more".

they sometimes require a notary and business license for any vehicle sold for profit. I have given a few cars away to friends - zero cost. Taxes still have to be paid on it even though it was legit zero dollars, but some states don't allow gifting or only to family. They end up costing me gas, new timing belt, brakes, pass inspection, all for free - and tax still has to be paid on it? Come on gubmint, I can't even help someone without getting hosed!??!? I could get bent, complain about it, call it stupid, get it arbitrated...but it's not worth the time, it is what it is. Systems are never efficient, that's a reality of social systems and any one-size-fits all approach. It'll never be perfect.

no, not really. i'm sure I've put locktite on a questionable bolt before - but i always address bad threads first and consider this extra insurance. it would probably be fine for somethign benign like a cam cap though.

Yes, the XT heads are dual port, so you'll have to work around that some how. The simple and direct route would be to bolt carb heads to the XT block. Or, consider this a great time to throw antiquated carb junk completely and transplant the entire XT engine and ECU - you have the wiring harness connectors and ECU. Cut the wires from the ECU in the trunk and splice them into the wiring at the engine harness.

Left, right, or center? Happens at all speeds? Drive over a speed bump to make the noise - with one tire at at time - do both do the same thing? Have someone stand outside the car and listen. Do the VIN's all match - on the strut tower, doors, title, etc? I'm in Morgantown, if you're ever here I'll listen and have a look.

Outback Sport - yes! reminds me of EA81 hatches! sedan...if you're bored.

headgasket, but i hope you find a simpler solution. it's not uncommon for those block tests to give a false negative. a gas analyzer would be more accurate in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. intake manifolds have coolant passages married to them and can leak into intake runners and cylinders as well, doubt that would cause bubbles like that though. those EA82 headgaskets aren't hard to do in the vehicle at all, easy actually. oil and water mixing is not a common failure mode, so I wouldnt' worry about that too much. sure check it and yes it happens, but they fail plenty of times without that happening too.

But yes - if they're totally hosed and not enough threads - just repair it. Could probably even find a larger size bolt to tap too - standard size just a wee bigger or thread repair inserts should work fine. Ring angle drill attachment if it's in the vehicle. put the drill bit in a vice and WAAAAIL it with a hammer and it'll shear off to make it short enough to fit in front of the engine with a right angle drill or attachment. be careful - the sheared of drill bit will fly and bounce all over the garage - where goggles and don't hit anything breakable.

M6 x 1.00 Often times on those EA/ER engines - the bolt holes are much deeper than the original bolts. So you can get a longer bolt and just insert it down there to grab the deeper threads. I like to chase it with a M6x1.00 tap first to clean it all up. I have no clue how many times I've done that. Find some longer M6x1.00 bolts that are longer and give it a shot, use washers as spacers under the head if they're too long or cut the threads shorter and chase the ends with a die to smooth out the cut threads.