idosubaru

If the CV was replaced with aftermarket CV axle then that is a possible suspect. Aftermarket CV axles are plagued with issues, very common. Did this issue exist before the CV replacement? Did this issue appear after the CV replacement? Any check engine or dash board lights? Does braking change/affect it? Does steering change/affect it? (going straight or turning)

the axle nut and axle pins last the life of the vehicle and never need replaced. the FSM isn't entirely accurate, though i can understand leaning on it. i wouldn't ever use or reuse aftermarket axle pins, but the stock OEM ones don't fail.

anything within the owners manual range. 75w-90 is i think what i have. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/105232-which-gear-oil-for-5-speed-manual/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/85343-80w-90-vs-75w90-gear-oil-for-differentials/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/116899-differential-fluid-change/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/116387-front-differential-gear-oil-tranny-fluid/

If it's an Outback (not an Impreza OBS) then it was 100% swapped, no discussion.

i wouldn't bother with the rust - no way you'll get it all. i've done a bunch - there's so many layers and folds behind that rear quarter panel and other parts the you can't get it all out. you'll replace a bunch but there's more rust down in there that's going to come out. i'd leave all that suspension and bushing stuff alone and just drive the car. make repairs/upgrades based on assessment. then i'd plan on getting a rust free southern/western car in a couple years to replace what you now have. fly out and drive home. it is SOOOOO worth it. ends up being cheaper, better car, less maintenance, it's a win win all the way around.

good call - yes the fans. technically the radiator doesn't have to come out which might save a northeasterner an hour in drilled out sheared hold down bolts or using zipties to reinstall, but yeah definitely take it out for a new person and well with the coolant/hoses already removed it's almost zero extra work so silly to leave it.

i indicated int he first post how to do it in the vehicle: remove lower two 14mm engine mount nuts. remove upper pitch stopped (1 12 or 14mm bolt/nut). with that done you can now jack the engine up a few inches and tilt it up on the given side you're working on. pull the battery, windshield washer tank, and air filter box and you can do the heads in the vehicle.

there's no code for mechanical components. codes are only for electrical issues. sometimes a mechanical component might trigger the codes, but as a rule they do not.

That coin can land on two sides, the 2.2 is a great engine but if it's been swapped, why is he not being up front about it? If it's swapped and he's not owning up to it - then I don't picture a pristine 40,000 mile recently driven EJ22 with maintenance records, perfect compression and UOA tests.

The only 2.2 liter outback in 1999 is the Impreza Outback Sport. 1999 LEGACY wagons were 2.2 liter. Some people mistakenly (conveniently - sells better) call the wagons Outbacks. (a GT wagon may be an exception if offered). 1999 Outback = 2.5 liter - always. If it's a 1999 Outback then he is wrong and you don't need to ask any more questions. It's either: A. A 2.5 liter EJ25D DOHC engine B. A 2.2 liter that's been swapped in place of the 2.5.

That's weird - Subaru evaporator failure is nearly unheard of - they don't even fail on 1980's Subarus. It's a mechanical component so anything is possible, but that's odd for sure. Has the car ever been wrecked/flooded? I'd get a second opinion. Most subaru a/c leaks are just the orings on the compressor and costs like $3 and takes 15 minutes to repair. And yeah time wise - it's a rather beastly sized project if it does end up being that - but i'd want to confirm it and make sure it's not just an oring at one of the evaporator fittings. Rubber orings fail more than metal.

well since it's been raining like this area thinks it's the northwest - if it got wet - let it dry out and it may start working again. my 02 OBW has gotten the switches wet, not worked, been quirky - then dried out and has been fine since. otherwise yeah pull the panel to clean or replace.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631

remove drive belts, power steering, a/c compressor, radiator hoses, and air intake hose/box remove intake manifold remove exhaust manifold remove timing components remove valve covers remove heads unbolt lower 14mm engine mount nuts for in car access or engine removal remove upper pitch stopper and all 8 bellhousing bolts/starter bolts/lower two engine to transmission stud nuts 1. resurface the heads 2. use Subaru Ej25 turbo headgaskets

+1 LT - replacing the engine is a good fit sometimes for sure: a used EJ22 for $200 - $400 is cheaper than the headgasket parts, resurfacing, labor to install that would be a good fit for some people. repeated overheats lend themselves to lower end issues for H6 engines (the original intent of this post) - the timing chain and headgasket labor is so expensive that replacing can be cheaper every option has conceivable up sides and down sides - pick what fits you best!

there are two different timing triggers on the back of the drivers side cam sprocket and crank sprocket. did you verify both are the same or swap them? you want to retain the sprockets/triggers to the vehicle/ECU. did you hear the "new" engine run before the install? 1. verify those or swap them 2. check timing marks 3. check valve clearance - exhaust valves being the most likely culprits.

wouldn't you be in the firing range of the vent screw blow off if you're loosening it? the pressures might even strip those plastic ones when loosening? the vent caps give the extra precaution of blowing hot pressurized gas into the overflow tank at a controlled rate where it can't come into contact with you. no one said to replace his EJ22? i was the his only reply and i mentioned replacing the headgaskets.

+1 to getting a prefabbed lift. the lift is easier to keep and move to another vehicle.

i guess you've check coolant level, fans are coming on, radiator isn't clogged with debris/bent fins, thermostat is operating properly? Getting one of those vent-lev-R stant caps at the auto parts store helps by allowing you to open the system even when it's hot so you can top it off and get back to driving. open it sloooooowly as hot coolant will rupture out quickly through the vent hose, into the overflow and blow the cap off of that and blow out the top there - if you open it quick. this isn't necessarily the right part number, just the first that came up on a google search, but here is what they look like: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-or-stant-radiator-cap-lev-r-vent-10331/17110038-P If it's a 1998 or earlier EJ22 those are the simplest Subaru headgaskets to repair and can be done in the vehicle easily. If you can find a mechanic charging by the hour, not scared of Subarus, it could be done rather inexpensively. All the headbolts are external - there's no removing valve covers and cams/cam caps like you have to on other Subaru engines. really simple engines.

i'm probably seeing this wrong, but is that supposed to be and or adn in the email address?

flatland is easy - tow all day. if you're driving 10 miles, easy, tow all day. if you're just doing it once, tow during off hours too, less traffic, etc. if you're doing an extended trip over mountains then you might want to be more cautious/hesitant depending on those variables.

1. look for bubbles in the coolant overflow tank - while idling, after a long drive, after some interstate driving. that's indicative of headgasket issues on H6 engines. 2. you could even do a block test on the coolant - but initial headgasket failures can generally pass those tests anyway 3. replace the serpentine belt pulley bearings, as soon as you buy the car. ask the mechanic to do it for you as part of the sale - the bearings are $10 and takes 30 minutes or less to tap out and back in. super easy. they fail very, very often. definitely check for rust, the exhaust can often be an annoying and expensive maintenance item on northeast vehicles. both of my H6's of this generation have already had exhaust work/replacement. buying one out west to avoid the rust would be ideal - but the prices out there can be inordinately high compared to here too.

replace the hub if you have repeated bearing failures. you can buy a new hub from Subaru and install it with your next set of bearings. or get a used knuckle assembly with a good hub in it: www.car-part.com

not really - the fuel pump caps crack at the tabs and the orings spit out. but it sounds like you probably already had that issue or at least addressed it anyway. the serpentine pulley bearings fail with amazing regularity - i consider them 60,000 mile maintenance items. $10 for each bearing and only takes 20 minutes though, really easy. transmissions - do well, probably better the more fluid changes it's had.

hey mike, good to "see" you - yep that's classic EJ25D headgasket issues. if he does repair it make sure to use Subaru headgaskets and resurface the heads - the NAPA in fairmont resurfaces heads, i don't know of anywhere in Morgantown that does it.