idosubaru

All 1999-2001 EJ22's are interchangeable Phase II. They all have single port exhaust. You can also swap the 03 forester heads onto the 99 EJ22 block then you'll have double port exhaust and can just use that exhaust and intake manifold in the forester. so you're just swapping the short block. Phase II EJ22 and EJ25 99-04 heads are essentially identical minus the exhaust ports - the valve part numbers on Ej25 and EJ22 Phase II's are even the same.

definitely reseal the oil pump. it's easy and you're there and they have known issues. ; 1. tighten the backing plate screws - i seriously don't think i've ever seen a pre 2005 EJ engine without loose screws. i only qualify that because i haven't worked on my 2005+ oil pumps, i assume over time i'll be the same. 2. new oring 3. reseal it i use anaerobic often on oil pumps too, but i've used ultragray plenty of times as well.

if the rack is really bad - clean all the debris out and yes grease it somewhat. it's easily done on the car - i did an outback two weeks ago and never even lifted a wheel off the ground.

If the axles have green inner cups - reboot them, don't replace them. 1. remove wheel 2. mark top strut mount bolt HEAD (chisel or grease pen or sharpie) - it affects alignment, this allows you to reinstall to the same place 3. remove top strut mount bolt and loosen lower bolt 4. drive out 3/16" roll pin on trans side 5. remove axle and reboot it. 6. install axle - it only goes on ONE WAY on the trans side - so make sure the holes are lined up perfect and not half way - if it's half lined up - rotate 180 degrees. rack boots: clean all the debris out and install new boots. loosen nut on inner tie rod unscrew inner tie rod from outer - count how many turns it takes to remove it - this sets alignment as well. remove nut off inner tie rod once the two tie rods are disconnected remove old boot - install new one. pull lip of boot over bottom of rack - then manhandle that thing, holding it in place, while rotating it to 12 noon, then grab the bottom of the boot with pliers and pull that joker up and over the lip. it's tricky to get the boot fully seated. reinstall in reverse, installing tie rod to same location to retain alignment.

yep, i've done that with others. i had a 5 foot digging bar leveraged under the car and prying down and it wouldn't quite get enough room. i'll undo the sway bar and have another go.

wrong bolt pattern - they won't bolt up the 80's stuff is 4x140 bolt pattern all 90's impreza/legacy/forester are 5x100 bolt pattern i'm unsure of the workarounds available for that issue - adapters would be one possibility. they'll be 13" or 14" rims too which as said may not clear the larger front calipers of the Impreza - though the impreza i still just the small single piston front calpier so they're not huge.

sweet momma FT! thanks! so this is the case for these installs, that's how most people install them? i think i can contend with sheared/rusty sway bar end link bolts at least.

Alternately - I could cut a half a coil or so off of the spring? That sounds like a terrible idea but I know people have done it on EA82 rear struts.

I've read all the threads about installing OBW/Forester struts into a legacy and everyone just says install them...never mentions any trouble with installation? I have the strut bolted in at the top of a 95 legacy sedan. the bottom of the strut mount is in front of the spindle mount for the strut so I need the strut mount to go behind it or over top of it to get it to drop in place. I've pulled the spindle assembly out as far as it will go and there's still like a 1/2" of overlap and the strut won't slide past the strut mount on the spindle so it can drop on top of it. This car has a decent amount of rust - one of the strut bolts sheared off - so I'm not looking forward to removing anything....but what would give me more clearance for pulling that spindle lower or out further? Axle? Sway bar? Compress the strut somehow in place - jack it up or spring compressors insitu?

it sounds like you have some acess in front of the motor, but just in case, some things i've done before? i've gotten a right angle drill before or a right angle drill attachment to drill on the front of the engine for timing component and water pump bolt issues before. i think harbor freight has a super cheap one. take a drill bit, put it in a vice - and WAAAAAAILLLLL on it with a hammer. it'll shear right off they're hard but brittle. just protect yourself because the part that shears off will bounce of the ground and three more things once it's sent sailing. this shortens the effective length of the bit allowing access down into the motor.

www.car-part.com will show what interchanges - look up your car and see what others are listed. ebay often shows interchanges if you find a subaru part listed there. opposed forces might show interchange as well.

separator plates and oil pans are rather benign - use the ultra gray all day long. it's not so much conflicting information - there is some sense in which it doesn't matter if applied properly. so if it doesn't matter - everyone is right. kind of like oil brand - no matter how obsessive someone is with their brand, it doesn't matter for NA Subarus. ultra gray can squish out and coudl conceivably drop into the engine and lodge itself somewhere. that won't happen if applied properly. and the oil pan has a sump screen on it anyway so it shouldn't do any damage even if it did happen there.

yeah just use a 1/2" socket set and a long pipe over the handle if you need to. keep it all squared up as you're cranking on it so it doesn't walk off. they should come off. i've worked on countless rusty cars and i've only ever had one sheer off....maybe two if i'm forgetting one. but i've had a ton that were really tight. once it starts to move - if it's still tight do this: 1. loosen a little bit (how much depends how tight it is - the tighter it is the less you loosen it) 2. wait - go check your mail, make lunch, mow the grass 3. turn it a little bit more (again - how far depends how tight it still is) 4. wait again - go water the garden, pluck your eyebrows.... 5. keep repeating until it comes off. this is extermely helpful regarding heat - as you loosen a tight fastener - it heats up A LOT. they can burn the snot out of you. this loosen/wait routine helps the metal cool down, not expand, and not weaken the materials.

You're in luck, the fresh oil change doesn't matter, hardly any oil comes out when replacing the oil cooler gasket. It obviously has some residual oil in there, but it's not terribly much.

year doesn't matter, all 88-91 XT6's are the same in regards to mechanical components.

I don't know the answer but opposed forces has exploded diagrams of all the cooling hoses. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/lubrication_system/oil_cooler_engine/ Between opposed forces and looking at your car I would use that to determine what to order. Can you just look at the car and identify the hoses you want to replace - how did you identify this hose to begin with? looking at the car, seraching amazon...etc? While you've got the coolant drained I'd replace the oil cooler gasket and the two hoses associated with that. I think there is a hose from the water pump/tstat area to the cooler pipe for the oil cooler - maybe that's what this is. I bought one hose for an H6 once aftermarket and it didnt' really fit well - it kinked and restricted flow - I replaced it a week later with a Subaru hose. It was one of the smaller hoses, probably for the oil cooler.

i've seen a couple 00-04 generations with bad battery cables that do the same thing. battery cables that can't draw enough juice to engage the starter, happens sometimes and not others but gets worse over time. pull back the insulation and they'll be incredibly compacted crusty stuff all up in the wiring harness. peel back the first 6 or so of harness tabe/conduit from the battery terminal and see if it looks bad. if it does - you can clean the wire out with metal brush - just keep brushing it utnil all that flakey stuff comes out. that should last a few weeks/months while you source a good repair option. a test it to run a jumper cable from the positive battery terminal directly to the starter positive terminal - you're essentially running a temporary new wire. not much space around the starter and you need good jumper cables/clean/good contacts where it connects for this to work. or you can run a temporary wire from + battery terminal to + starter connection as a temporary bypass.

get two new bolts that haven't been run through the ringer so they don't shear again. is the bolt sheared off above the block, level with, or in the block? welding a nut to the sheared of bolt works wonders if you can. otherwise drill it out. start with a small drill bit then work your way up larger if needed. the higher quality the drill bits, the better. left handed drill bits are the best - they can "unscrew" the bolt while they're drilling. yours probably sheared off because of previous trauma and might come out easily. i wouldn't use a bolt extractor - they are awful excuses for tools. if they work, the bolt will easily come out some other way. if an extractor shears off in that hole (which i've seen), you're in for another order of magnitudde debacle.

those EJ22 heads are the easiest Subaru headgasket to replace on the vehicle. they're so simple it's crazy. can easily be done in the vehicle and all the head bolts are external.

+1 they fail so rarely the ABS units aren't worth anything - should be cheap. post in the classified section there? www.car-part.com has them listed for $14, $19, and $35 cheapest +shipping depending which variant you have. but i imagine it wouldn't be terribly hard to just swap it to non-ABS. the master cylinders vary - how many outputs they have - i'm not sure why or how they're routed, but that's a difference i've seen. 2 lines coming off the MC, 3 lines, and 4 lines i think i've seen all three of those. the ABS works waaaay better with good tires. if you're being as frugal with tires (speaking from experience), that's probably freaking out your ABS. it'll trigger much more often, when it's not necessary if you've got old tires, warn tires, low grade tires.

you're wanting an MT i guess? Terminology aside - the GL's still "lock" when they're put in 4WD so depends why you're asking and what you're after. Do you mind 2WD and "locked" 4WD? then any MT GL should work. If you want 4WD with a locking center diff - then that's a different story. You have a unimog? I worked on one last year, crazy machine. My best friend is an addict.

+1. usually the valves bend, but i've (or a friends car i was working on i should say) got lucky once.

there are some limited options - did you do a google search? most people convert to 5 lug so the options are much broader. subaruxt.com is an XT specific forum, most of the guys are members here but there's some good XT specific resources there.

Ha ha, you caught me - I Intentionally didn't say it is a 2.2 hoping someone would say why/they've tried it rather than "no it's a different engine". Do you know why an EJ25D resonator/mid section won't work on a 99 2.2?

The forester axle can be used in the legacy so length doesn't matter, but the tone ring will be the issue. The forester has the ABS tone ring fixed to the axle itself. The legacy does not - the tone ring is part of the hub. When installing that forester axle in an earlier legacy you simply tap the tone ring off and install it in place. Some peopel I think just leave the tone ring even. So - if the tone ring can tap into place on the 1993 legacy axle you might be able to use it. I sort of doubt that one of the steps in the axle joint will be the right diameter for the tone ring to properly slide onto and stop. You might be able to install the 93 legacy hub and axle and splice the ABS sensor wiring together to get the 93 legacy sensor to play nice with the forester ABS sensor...but that sounds terrible. www.car-part.com has axles for $15 - $33 each, i've bought tons of axles from there and all have been Subaru OEM.