idosubaru

if the axle isn't making any noises - reboot it and be done with it. that OEM axle will last 200,000 miles for certain. a replacement aftermarket axle can not come anywhere near close to making a claim like that. 1. no spring compressor needed. 2. avoid the ball joint at all costs. the pinch bolts have issues, the housings can crack, and the ball joints can be seized in place - those are all common issues in rust prone areas. 3. remove the two strut mount bolts - they never have issues or leave you stuck on a job, ever. you can even loosen the lower bolt and remove the top - then the spindle pivots out enough to pull the axle. 4. mark the bolt head (not the nut) of the top strut mount bolt - it holds the alignment. pre-mark it's location in relation tot he strut mount so you can reinstall it the same way. i cut the metal - like use a chisel - that won't get erased. markers can work - just dont' erase your mark. you can download free FSM's all day long from online - just get one of those so you have everything. for the front axle job it's essentially the same from 1990 Legacy to your 2007 all 2005-2009's are the same. 2004 and earlier are the same except the axle doesn't have a pin - it just pulls out of the transmission. remove wheel unbolt 32 mm axle nut mark top strut bolt head remove top strut mount bolt loosen lower bolt pull axle out (i think 2007's don't have an axle pin - they just pull out of the transmission) pull axle off trans - push it "upwards" to give you room to slide it out of the hub - then snake it out from under the car.

automotive paint and finishes are highly technical, don't do it unless you're....well you're not if you're asking. i always try to get a used one to match if possible - that's the easiest and cheapest solution. bumpers are often $200 from subaru and $200 to paint - you're generally around $500. used is much more reasonable but yours is new enough it might be hard to find and i've never found a yard that will ship items this big.

you could reuse it assuming it's not cracked. sand/grind the edges of all the broken edges all down smooth, making gradual transitions and they'll do exactly what the teeth currently do - gradually engage with no impact on the belt. but it is generally easy enough to get another one - they're easily found bratman probably has them, i probably have them...

Did you answer your own question - ditch the car and buy a Honda? Done. 1. won't turn over - as in the motor doesn't move at all or do anything? 2. when it doesn't turn over - are there interior lights and all working fine? 3. you say you're carrying a booster battery - does that work every time? 4. do the dealer mechanics know that the booster gets it started every time? they may have no idea where to start/test if what you told us isnt' getting to them, which can easily happen. you tell the service manager a whole list of details and he doesn't record it or never tells the mechanic. If I infer that the battery pack gets the car started every time then basically the battery isn't fully up to charge so: 1. alternator output needs tested - what results did the dealer get? 2. battery needs tested - what results did the dealer get? 3. terminals needed tested Advance Auto parts and other stores can do the battery and alternator testing for free...though it seems odd that Subaru woudlnt' just do that for you under warranty.

yes there is generally lots of debris and residual stuff in the cooling system and overflow tank/hose. if it is low coolant - then the goal is to find the leak.

If you have a 1994 EJ22 swapped into an 87 GL - then that means it was an entire wiring/ECU job - just do the same thing to the forester - swap the entire wiring/ECU into the forester just like was done to the 87 GL. The 2000 Forester is a Phase II EJ25. The intake manifold most definitely will not bolt up to the 1994 EJ22. 2000 Forester intake manifold will only bolt up to 1999-2001 EJ22's. 1. you could swap the 2000 wiring harness onto the 94 intake manifold. but there are going to be differences, namely the idle controller set up is completely different and it'll idle/warm up funny and require some ghetto rigging to get it to idle properly...and fluttering the gas pedal at stops...etc. i'm also unfamiliar with 1994's - 1995+ EJ22's that holds, i'm not sure what other differences, how similar injectors are, etc for 1994's which are OBDI and not OBDII. 2. you could swap the 2000 forester heads onto the 94 block and then your intake manifold, electronics, idle control, all stays identical. you'll take a compression hit but it'll run. the risk you take when doing that, and i've been in the same general position - do you trust the heads on an engine that was compromised?

+1 - you're doing right trying to get that code, i haven't read any 05+ codes though, they've all been the older/easy style just ground that one pin.

i wouldn't want original timing pulleys on there - they are likely to fail at some point. so if only the timing belt was replaced - which is likely - i'd plan on installing new pulleys. or maybe as "part of the sale" you can ask him if he'd install the pulleys for free if you buy them ($100 Gates kits on Amazon). i wouldn't want it unless you can verify they are Six Star or Subaru headgaskets. I wouldn't want it if it's aftermarket headgaskets. Other than that - those miles shouldn't be terribly scary. If the price is really low for your area...which it seems to be for this time of year - aren't prices high out west? I'd wonder why it's priced so low with all that work done.

to the original poster - Ej22 is single port exhaust so carry the exhaust manifold over with the engine. use EJ25 flexplate (if automatic) on EJ22 engine. the EJ25 will be an EGR equipped engine. if the 1997 isn't EGR it'll have a check engine light due to that. but it will still plug and play and run great anyway. install a metal separator plate and seal it on the EJ22. install a new timing component kit - belt, pulleys, tensioner - they're like $100 for Gates kits on amazon - great deal. no - 1995's are non-interference. EJ22's are non-inteference up until 1996 Interference 1997 and up.

Slow down and keep this simple. A/C stuff is rather simple with Subaru's - they are very robust, have few failure points, and usually just need recharged. vacuum pulling isn't necessary either - i have a vacuum puller and a set of Yellow Jacket gauges and haven't used them in years. I've done gobs of Subaru A/C work and it's easy. Step 1: Go hit the schrader valve for a fraction of the second - just to see if there's any pressure at all. if it's busts out fast and some oil comes with it and it made you jump - it's still under nearly full charge. that will require some follow up questions/testing. if it barely pssssttt out, then it's basically all drained from leaking - this is the most likely outcome. Step 2: Take note - are the two hose fittings at the compressor wet at all? A leak in the hose will pull some oil out with it and show itself by very minor wet marks and debris sticking to the oil. if they're wet - replace said hose. I'm assuming it'll be nearly empty of refrigerant - you'll usually hear some residual pressure bleed off, but it's minor compared to a full system. Option 1. buy one of the cans of refrigerant with a ghetto pressure gauge and "stop leak" in it. fill it. this is often effective at mitigating leaks. i wouldn't do this myself, i'd do Option 2 below, but some people just want quick and easy. Option 2 buy same can with the ghetto pressure gauge attached. buy one of the "A/C kits' that have all the orings in it. replace the two orings on the hoses that bolt to the compressor. add proper amount of refrigerant - two of the normal sized small cans works for all Subarus and i'll even add that without using gauges if it's an empty system. ***There is no need to pull a vacuum. I've done it countless times on Subarus - it's way overhyped by folks that don't know what they're talking about or HVAC people that only know one way of doing it and make mad loot off a public that's terrified of A/C systems.

probably still have air in them. they are a debacle to bleed, not simple. usually people replace the hose when they replace the slave cylinder too. not sure a hose would cause problems, but thought i'd mention it.

sure - they can make noises. 1. were any of the timing pulleys rough and grinding? 2. was the tensioner wet around the oil seal? 3. does the pin look like it was being impacted for thousands of miles? seems odd for the A/C cycilng to register on the radar screen, seems like orders of magnitude difference the load of the compressor verses that of the engine on the belt. but who knows.

+1 usually low refrigerant. while the system is dead replace the orings where the hoses bolt to the compressor - those are the most common leakage points. replace schrader valves while you're at it. recharge

it's not the valve cover gaskets or head gasket? either way it sounds like you'll be doing a valve cover gasket job. 1. valve cover gaskets 2. spark plug tube gaskets 3. reseal the plug(s) as needed

yes, it happens sometimes. keep twisting it and pulling. start by twisting more and pulling less - just go nuts on it back and forth enough times that your neighbors call the police. if you get frustrated, quit and come back to it later. eventually it'll come out.

There's no need to ask about particular brands - aftermarket axles are a gamble. Can you find someone with a good experience with your axle? Of course - that's a silly question. Are there good experiences with them? of course there are. no one would say every single axle ever bought it bad. But 7 out of 10 good experiences (i bet it's not even that high over 100,000 miles) is an atrocious failure rate that would make most people livid in any other industry. If a gas station gave you bad gas 3 times out of 10 people would be livid over that kind of failure rate. But with axles people are game to gamble. I guess if the industry takes a dramatic shift some day and starts churning out better parts - that answer could change, but i doubt it. There's 4 resources for good axles if you value you're time and think high failure rates are loopy: Reboot Subaru OEM FWE axles Raxles Subaru OEM reman If you're flipping the car, not likely to put many miles on it, don't care about replacing the axle again - then go get whatever axle is easy and convenient and do it. If you want high mileage repeatability - reread the list above.

i never replace Subaru axle pins - i reuse them for decades and hundreds of thousands of miles, never seen an issue or heard of them coming out. i throw away new ones and reuse the old ones. you're fine on that point. aftermarket axles suck - rebooting used Subaru axles is a better idea, but you can cross that bridge later when these aftermarkets start having issues.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/ replace the oil pump or reseal the cam tower and replace the HLA's if you want. can also run 1 - 3 quarts of ATF in place of oil for varying lengths of time - the more ATF you use the less severe i'd run it...i can't speak to longevity of that "repair" or "mitigation"- but i've seen it help in the short term at least from memory over a decade ago. since replacing the oil pump has fixed it every time since then i've found no need to try anything else.

i i started the semantic dissection, no sweat. sadly I thought the question was a silly question, i know, shame on me. so i tossed back a silly-ish reply. I was unsure why it mattered "what causes it". It's such an endless circular discussion sometimes. forgive me. I'm glad we fleshed it all out. A+ for you!

i would think tires first. how old are they and condition? but given a known issue it's good to start there. www.car-part.com and look for OEM Subaru used axles - green inner cups.

you won't need those - they'll all shear off in the holes and not allow you to install new ones anyway. LOL just kidding...sort of. not all of them should shear off hopefully.

does the AT light flash 16 times at start up? ideally you try to access any codes stored by the TCU. find the handshake procedure and see if you can get it to work. why was the transmission rebuilt - what happened to it the first time? is the transmission pan dented or deformed at all? was the transmission filter replaced ever - after the first rebuild?

There are no lifters. "causes" - do you mean what ***makes*** the sound or ***causes*** the sound? The HLA's ***make*** the sound but the ***cause*** could be a few things. Usually it's oil supply related, sometimes it's HLA related. Read this, then read it again then again. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/

LOL

this: sounds like a 1998 Forester or a later one that's already had the headgasket replaced or abusively overheated.